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fancyclaps
Nov 23, 2005, 9:03 PM
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I am really new to climbing and was looking to purchase a pair of climbing shoes. I really have no idea what to look for in climbing shoes and I wanted to get a general idea of what I was looking for before I went into a shop and started trying them on.
Should the shoes be stiffer like normal shoes or more flexible like ballet shoes?
If I generally wear a Mens 10.5(American) should I look for that same size in a climbing shoe?
Should I try the shoe on with or without socks?
At moosejaw.com I found multiple shoes of different brands at $80(which is what I was looking to spend) and I was wondering are there any "good" brands or is everything pretty equal?
I also read in these forums that I should look for a shoe that feels comfortable, well what does comfortable mean for a climbing shoe? Tight around the toes? Or comfortable just like a regular shoe?
Well those are all the questions I that come to mind. I would greatly appreciate any advice!
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cliffwoman
Nov 23, 2005, 9:51 PM
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My favorite shoe right now is madrock hooker ($90)... nice shape, side laces, etc. climbing shoes should be pretty tight, pretty stiff. Try about a size or so smaller in climbing shoes, and if you climb in socks, try them on with socks, otherwise no. they're really not that comfortable, especially new ones. they should almost hurt in the toes, and most have a slight curve to them. most brands are pretty equal, some good ones are 5.10, madrock, la sportiva. i'd suggest actually going to a store and trying them on first, then ordering them online. hope this helped
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liquidshadow111
Nov 23, 2005, 10:08 PM
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My first shoes were the mad rock phoenix(sp?). I would highly reccomend them. Youre first shoes should be stiff, but not too stiff. Just buy what feels comfortable on your feet.
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bootstrapping
Nov 23, 2005, 11:18 PM
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try on alot of different shoes in different sizes. find ones that fit your feet. that's the most impt requirement. as snug as possible but without any real pain. if it hurts, it's the wrong size or it does not fit your foot.
i would start at your regular shoe size and work your way down when needed. the sizes will vary by the shoe and the brand.
i would also suggest you start off with a shoe that is not aggressively cambered. (cambered means that it's curved.)
probably medium-sitffness. i keep reading that beginners should start off with a stiff shoe, but i don't like them because it seems like i cannot feel the holds. (i have not done any foot-jamming into cracks.)
if you actually want names of shoes, i've liked the la sportiva cobras (sadly discontinued), five ten moccasyms, and la sportiva katanas. (granted it's a small sample size, but the la sportivas seem more durable.) another shoe that i've found to be good is the la sportiva mythos. because i always suggest for ppl to try them on (despite never having owned a pair) and they all seem to like them. the mythos are supposed to be a comfortable shoe, yet still able to climb technical stuff.
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theonlynebraskaclimber
Nov 24, 2005, 6:09 AM
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I just ordered the mad rock flash (70). I haven't got them yet but they are the climbing magazine editors choice and seem to be a good shoe. I would try them on in a store. They wont be comfortable like a normal shoe but they shouldn't be so bad all you can think about is getting them off. Your first pair might not last as long so keep that in mind when you buy. Get a good all around shoe to start with and once you start to gain some climbing experience you will have a better idea of what kinda of shoe you need.
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musicman1586
Nov 25, 2005, 4:48 AM
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There's a couple things here that should be clarified. First of all, what people are meaning about by the shoe being comfortable is that for your first pair of shoes, you shouldn't buy a pair of shoes with an aggressively down-turned toe. This type of shoe shoves your foot forward and your toes are tightly curled up for very precise climbing, but as a beginner, your footwork, just like everyone else's, isn't going to be good enough to warrant that sort of discomfort. So first of all, find a shoe that your toes pretty much lay flat in, or with only the slightest curl. You should be able to wear your first pair of shoes for a long time without needing to take them off.
Next, the majority of climbing shoes out there stretch out over time, so you need to account for this when you size your shoes. It doesn't help either that all shoes, even by the same company, stretch different amounts, so ask around about particular models, and if they tend to stretch alot. When sizing a shoe, it might be uncomfortably tight when you first get it, but size so that it will stretch just the right amount and fit like a glove.
A good fit (for a beginner) is a shoe where your feet don't slide around at all, you shouldn't have alot of room to move around inside your shoe, the more space, the less precise your feet placements will be.
I own a pair of Five Ten Spires, and personally I think their great. Search around for the best price on them, I wouldn't buy them retail if you can avoid it. They work well for beginners and you can keep them for long days and/or routes, I know that I'll be saving them for that use. I sized one size down from my street size, and they've stretched to be the perfect fit.
Good luck to you, and don't be afraid to ask more questions as you go.
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brent_e
Nov 25, 2005, 6:21 AM
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I will add that my first pair of shoes stretched from being very tight to being so sloppy that they are almost useless (room in front of my toe). I will say that it was my uneducated selfs fault.
EXPECT THEM TO STRETCH
unless they are synthetic (madrock loco? evolvs?) and if they have a lining they will also stretch less.
I'd put up with a little more pain in the start for good fit. Walk around your house with them on so you don't have to waste time hurting while you climb
Good luck!
Brent
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musicman1586
Nov 25, 2005, 7:26 AM
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In reply to: I'd put up with a little more pain in the start for good fit. Walk around your house with them on so you don't have to waste time hurting while you climb Good luck! Brent
Yeah, I agree with this, if the shoes hurt at the store, but the next size up feels like it would get too big when it stretches, go for the smaller size that hurts, and then wear them while sitting around watching tv or something like that. However, if you wear a size 10 shoe, don't buy a size 6, it won't stretch that much (although, I have some friends who buy slippers 2 sizes smaller, who can't even fit their feet in the shoes when they first get them, and they work those shoes until they becoming an amazingly perfect fit, I just don't have the patience for that :lol: )
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fancyclaps
Nov 29, 2005, 8:11 PM
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I had one more question. Climb with socks or no socks? I know that I asked that in the original post, but someone at my local climbing gym said that most people climb without socks because you get a better feel for the rock. Is there a big difference? If I had a choice I would climb sockless, but is it bad for your feet? I know it seems nitpicky, but I really want to get a pair of shoes that fits, and this would make a big difference. So any additional input would be appreciated!
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cliffwoman
Nov 29, 2005, 8:22 PM
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It really doesn't make that much of a difference, I started out climbing with socks, and now mostly without... really just however you're most comfortable. I do wear moleskin though to prevent blisters... its good stuff.
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musicman1586
Nov 30, 2005, 4:54 PM
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Most people climb without socks because without that extra layer of fabric there you do feel things better, in my opinion at least. With new shoes your feet might blister at first because the shoes are breaking in, so try to take them off when you first start getting hot spots before they turn into blisters.
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redpoint73
Nov 30, 2005, 5:13 PM
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In reply to: It really doesn't make that much of a difference, I started out climbing with socks,
Exactly.
Wearing socks with climbing shoes is announcing that to the world that you are a noob.
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hammerhead
Nov 30, 2005, 5:30 PM
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My first pair (still the pair that I use most) are the Kermits from climbingshoes.com. Pretty comfortable after you break them in. Last I saw they were going for $50.00, but that was several months ago. Order 1/2 size smaller and you'll be ready to go.
Al
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obnoxice
Nov 30, 2005, 6:26 PM
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Sports Chalet gives 50% discount on climbing shoes till Dec. 15. I got my FiveTen Mocasyms for only 45 plus tax. You might want to check it out.
Since your a beginer, I suggest getting a shoe that's comfortable without sacrificing performance. Mocasyms are very comfortable. Although it still depends on the contour of your feet. Don't agressively downsize but take into consideration that some shoes do tend to stretch.
Shoes that are made from real leather stretch more than those made from synthetic leather.
Overall, get something that's snug yet won't hurt. It's not fun to climb with shoes that hurt.
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granitegod
Dec 1, 2005, 9:21 PM
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If you're "really new"...... buy the cheapest, most comfortble shoes you can find. Fit them without a pair of socks initially; once they're broken in and mold to your foot, you can probably wear a thin sock for comort if you want too, just loosen the laces a bit. Some might snicker at socks, but who cares? They're the idiots in $60 Prana pants, instead of $8 thrift store Dockers with a new $50 cam on their rack. And I'll sacrifice a small amount of performance for comfort, any day.
Yes, they should be "snug", but don't buy anything that hurts in the store, even a little. You don't need anything that tight until you're climbing above 5.10 or even 11. Try on several different brands, walk around in them for several minutes each, at least. When you've narrowed it down to 2 or 3 models/brands, try them in one size higher and lower.
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jeapord
Dec 2, 2005, 11:24 PM
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I started out with La Sportiva Cliff Blue...You can't go wrong with this shoe, they are very, very comfortable and won't limit your climbing as you get better...they are also easy to resole. If you order these, order them 1 and 1/2 sizes smaller, they will stretch tremendously.
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billabang
Dec 6, 2005, 10:30 AM
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i think the key word for how to fit your first pair of shoes should be 'snug' you wont want them topo tight or you just wont enjoy the sport for what it is, not toe cramps! however i dont subscribe to the 'comfortable' theory for 1st shoes, they shouldnt be uncomfortable but comfort is relative. if you have never worn a climbing shoe then a comfortable shoe may be way too big.
my advice would be to go into the shop and ask as they will be able to give you more hands on advice and help you fit the shoes correctly.
good luck with it!
t
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hammerhead
Dec 6, 2005, 12:37 PM
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You should check out the Kermits at climbingshoes.com. I have a pair, my first pair and I think they are pretty good for a beginner. Pretty comfortable and they fit good. Right now they're going for $40.00 a pair. I might pick another pair up now. You can't beat the price.
Al
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corpse
Dec 6, 2005, 2:41 PM
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When I started climbing, I got the purdy purple mythos - that was ~ 4 yrs ago.. The shoes have been resoled - still comfy, but no longer "high performance" (mainly cuz my resole job was so-so). I bought a new pair of shoes a month ago - the same sized pair of mythos!
For me, a guy with pretty normally shaped feet, the mythos are sooo comfortable. They hurt like a bitch right now, cuz they are unlined and will stretch a fair amount- but after a couple months, they will fit me like a glove, and yet I can still wear them for hours w/o a problem. They aren't meant for aggresive sport climbing or bouldering - but they are great for cracks.
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lisa_ottawa
Dec 6, 2005, 4:13 PM
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I just started climbing also, the only thing to do, is simply try on lots of shoes and get what feels comfortable for you, they're going to be tight and unusual feeling, but if your foot is cramping, then they are too small. they stretch, mine did...but too small is just too small...get what is comfortable, that's my opinion anyhow. :D
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chrisparedes
Dec 6, 2005, 4:53 PM
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Your climbing shoes, especially your first pair, should NOT hurt your feet. DO NOT get them as tight as possible. Get a pair that fits your foot best. Yes, it may be uncomfotable at first, but the shoe will mold to your foot with wear and use. Make sure the hell cup fits well around your heel too. Mad Rock Flashes are a good pair for beginners. I've been climbing for two years and still use them.
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lagarita
Dec 6, 2005, 5:38 PM
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Really cheap shoes to get you started...
http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=G&Category_Code=SHhttp://
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jamatt
Dec 6, 2005, 5:48 PM
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In reply to: redpoint wrote: Wearing socks with climbing shoes is announcing that to the world that you are a noob.
Except that the guide who taught my trad class said he never climbs without socks, due to the funk factor. I've come to favor thin cycling socks for comfort and hygiene.
As far as shoes go, I'd add that you should try them on in a store that has a mini-wall to see how they're going to feel on the rock. When I bought my first (and only) pair of shoes--the LS cliffs--they felt really tight when I stood on them but when I smeared on the wall, they felt great.
If you're primarily going to boulder you might consider either velcro or elastic for easier on/off.
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davidji
Dec 6, 2005, 6:02 PM
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In reply to: ... if the shoes hurt at the store, but the next size up feels like it would get too big when it stretches, go for the smaller size that hurts,
For a beginner, fit is key: it shouldn't have any "dead" spots (where the sole extends beyond your toes. And it shouldn't hurt. Buy painful shoes later when you know why you want 'em.
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lilfoxiq
Dec 6, 2005, 6:13 PM
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In reply to: I started out with La Sportiva Cliff Blue...
dude i totally agree. i love these shoes. they are a little more money but i knew i was going to use the resole them so they were worth it.
also, check out what you are using at the gym. ask yourself what you like about it or don't like. how do the toes fit? the heel? then you can go to the store and really know what you want.
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