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nowhowdoigetdown
Nov 23, 2005, 3:01 PM
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I am looking for advice and information concerning rope soloing…
I can never see myself soling. But I have found that I am very keen on trying rope soloing. I have had numerous discussions on the topic with different friends; ranging from basic techniques; climb up fix a rope rap down jummar up and clean, as well different self belay gear; I have heard of some people using grigri’s (although they are not designed for this), or techniques; fixing prelooped lengths of your rope, with a clove hitch or figure eight, to your harness and clipping them through your gear as you move.
Basically I want to know the different methods and stages of rope soloing from pitch one to pitch 101, and then the pros and cons of different techniques and gear I should use at each stage. For arguments sake lets say on a multipitch trad route.
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glyrocks
Nov 23, 2005, 3:21 PM
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I'll have that report on your desk by noon boss. Meanwhile, try reading one of the other two hundred threads that discuss and answer those very questions.
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azrockclimber
Nov 23, 2005, 3:34 PM
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I am bored so I'll give it a shot...here we go...
So lets say that you are going up to the base of a 200 foot climb that you are going to do in equal pitches of 100' each. ( if you are climbing more than 100' pitches, with a 60 rope, you will need two ropes. Alos if you don't walk off you may need two ropes as well.)
you anchor one end of your rope ro the ground/ rock/ tree/ whatever you deem sufficient.
the other end you run through your device...( wren Soloist most likely)
Then you begin leading the route as you would normally. You reach below your device and pull up rope ( that the side that is anchored, obviously) to clip in to your pieces of pro.
Now when you get to the top of the first pitch you are going ot have to remove your gear from the pitch you just did...A quick way to do that is tie off your remaining. 100' and single line rap to the bottom....hook up your device for TR soling and then climb and clean what you have just climbed. Then do the same thing for the second pitch...
Is that at all helpful??
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azrockclimber
Nov 23, 2005, 3:35 PM
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In reply to: I'll have that report on your desk by noon boss. Meanwhile, try reading one of the other two hundred threads that discuss and answer those very questions.
dick head..help or don't...stop wasting everyone's time.
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vegastradguy
Nov 23, 2005, 3:40 PM
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In reply to: ( if you are climbing more than 100' pitches, with a 60 rope, you will need two ropes. Alos if you don't walk off you may need two ropes as well.)
you dont necessarily need two ropes if the pitches are longer than 100'- that is, if there is a walk off, you'll only need one rope, as long as the pitches are short enough so that there is enough slack in the rope to rappel each pitch. i suspect this is probably a maximum of 180' or so for a 60m line.
devices available for rope soloing include:
Soloist
Silent Partner
GriGri
Clove Hitch
each has their pros and cons. check the threads at the bottom of this page for more info on all of this stuff.
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chossmonkey
Nov 23, 2005, 3:57 PM
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Ushba ascenders work kick ass for TR rope solo.
I prefer the Silent Partner for lead, but you need to carry the whole rope with or it doesn't work properly. I use a small sleek back pack, that just barely fits the whole rope. I don't like to TR with the Silent Partner. I either carry a different device or jug the rope depending on the route.
The soloist works pretty well for lead and works good for TR. The downside is the chest harness and it won't lock up in certain fall situations.
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glyrocks
Nov 23, 2005, 6:08 PM
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In reply to: dick head..help or don't...stop wasting everyone's time.
I am helping. I am helping this eager beaver figure out how to learn on his own. You gave him one misinformed and convuluted answer when- had he chosen not to waste everyone's time by asking a vauge question on a topic heavily covered--he could have a hundred answers without having to wade through a fresh surge of poorly written and incorrect posts. Rope-soloing isn't a wise endeavor for the lazy or simple-minded.
PS. No, you don't need two ropes for a pitch over 100 feet. Perhaps you should take your own advice: help or don't... stop wasting everyone's time.
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g-funk
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Nov 23, 2005, 6:17 PM
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Anybody know of a decent book that covers this topic at length? Freedom of the Hills says almost nothing about it.
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brad84
Nov 23, 2005, 6:38 PM
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to my knowledge, there is neither a book devoted to the topic of rope soloing, nor is there on which discusses soloing in great depth. the best ive heard are books which mention basic techniques and stop there.
i learned by gaining ample experience climbing in as many disciplines as i could and scrutinizing every situation. it is especially helpful to think through how you would get through certain scenarios on your own. then i began thinking the whole process out and getting a working plan together of how i would go about the process. execute.
if you are careful and methodical you will gain volumes worth of knowledge just by going out and doing it.
mistakes are more costly when you're rope soloing. be careful out there kids.
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hajiclimb
Nov 23, 2005, 6:40 PM
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I've done this with a grigri. One thing to remember is that a system like this is much harder on the pro than having a partner belay you. With a partner, part of the energy from your fall is absorbed in the partner's movement, compression of their waist in the harness, slight slippage of the rope through the ATC or whatever. When the rope is tied in at the bottom, you only have the stretching of the rope and the top piece of pro (in direct routes) to absorb all the force of the fall. It doesn't seem like it should make a huge difference, but it does. If you think that you'll fall, bring a hammer to help free the pro. Also, wear a helmet. I never end up upside down climbing with a partner, but I do when rope soloing. There's nothing like smelling the rock burning as your pro bites in, then smacking your head on the rock upside down. Actually, there are a lot of things better than that. Probably why I stopped.
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xtrmecat
Nov 23, 2005, 6:53 PM
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I've been rope soloing for a number of years now and can only suggest that you climb within your ability and not break any of the rules. I always have a backup in place ( clove ) and have a plan of escape should it get over my head,ie; second rope for over 100 feet so I can get back to earth in a timely manner, read self rescue. I also find this type of climbing an acquired taste and have learned to aid solo as a result and also find that to my liking. Get advice for everything you may do from an experienced climber and if you stay within your technical abilities you may grow to love soloing on a rope as much as I. Enjoy.
Bob
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nowhowdoigetdown
Nov 24, 2005, 4:17 PM
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Thanks although my thread was definetly on the vague side most of you were constructive and helpful. But despite that this is a topic you can get anyone talking about there seems to be few who have actucally done it, and as pointed out there are very few books on the subject. Obviously this doesn't mean I'll be heading out at first dawn on the nearest 1000ft suicide cliff. I will be doing this slowly. The whole appeal to rope soloing is the aspect of self sufficiency and self awareness. I will be sure to check out the other threads on this subject.
PS
I do appologize for using this form to talk about climbing.
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