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welikoa
Nov 28, 2005, 5:14 AM
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I
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petsfed
Nov 28, 2005, 5:18 AM
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Do people normally rope up on said climb? If so, you soloed it (albeit with some tactics borrowed from bouldering). If not, that is if people go ropeless on the route more than they rope up, then its a boulder problem.
The boulder problem/free solo differentiation is pretty clear at only 25-30 feet. Above that, it gets pretty blurry.
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t-dog
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Nov 28, 2005, 5:26 AM
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In reply to: The boulder problem/free solo differentiation is pretty clear at only 25-30 feet. Above that, it gets pretty blurry.
Am I reading this wrong? Or should it be the other way around?
In my mind, above 25-30 feet, the differentiation between bouldering and soloing is pretty clear (a.k.a. most likely soloing), whereas at 25-30 feet, it's a little blurry (could be either depending on the area/climb, etc...)
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welikoa
Nov 28, 2005, 5:44 AM
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I was thinking that If i took away the crash pads it would definetly be a solo because I would surely die as opposed to a highball which would be a good thrashing, but survival. Either way it was the funnest climbing I have done.
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phillygoat
Nov 28, 2005, 5:48 AM
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X-treme.
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 28, 2005, 6:02 AM
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If you know itīs a 5.11b because the setter intended it as a route, itīs more a free solo than anything, especially at 30 ft.
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welikoa
Nov 28, 2005, 6:07 AM
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Thats a great point. We have always toproped it in the past. Well, I guess I did my first great solo and my friend owes me 5 dollars. Thanks
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 28, 2005, 6:12 AM
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Hey congrats!! Now, wasnīt it worth the risk? :wink:
(jk)
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welikoa
Nov 28, 2005, 8:10 AM
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hmm was is worth the risk? Absolutely. Purest form of expression. The other 6 billion people who dont climb I assume would answer a resounding no, but to this group of exotrodinary people called climbers, it makes perfect sense and thats what matters.
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rockrat511
Nov 28, 2005, 8:28 AM
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The Highball/freesolo line is the one where you go from broken leg to extended hospital stay/closed casket!!!
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nicklikesfire
Nov 28, 2005, 9:24 AM
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I agree, you are SOOO X-treme!
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avitripp
Nov 28, 2005, 10:06 AM
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consult Hard Grit. Then ask...am I really x-treme?
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ajkclay
Nov 28, 2005, 12:13 PM
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Personally, I think that if you have spotters or crashpads then it's bouldering as it's a form of protection.
Some might say that if you prefer to listen to hip-hop, wear a beanie or think about what clothes will look best when you send then it's bouldering too :D
Heh heh, just my two cents, the point about how most people climb it is probably a good one too. If most climb it roped up, you would more likely consider it a solo.
Cheers
Adam
Oh and Free Climbing includes Trad, Sport, anything where you don't weight the rope or use aid, it is not necessarily soloing. :)
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overlord
Nov 28, 2005, 12:19 PM
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In reply to: Personally, I think that if you have spotters or crashpads then it's bouldering as it's a form of protection.
ditto that.
it also means climbing alone, e.g. you have to rely only on yourself to do the route. it does NOT mean climbing without protection. thats free soloing.
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mowz
Nov 28, 2005, 7:09 PM
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WTF??!! I swear I read this in the General area. Wait. I did. Why is this being brought up in two places? Arg. Is it really that big a deal? I don't know; maybe it's just me. I just thought it amusing that the topic is being brought up again. Is this topic going to be another "shoe" thread?
Edited for spelling.
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welikoa
Nov 28, 2005, 8:04 PM
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Hey man,
RELAX. It might be possible that the author (me) didn't know there was another thread. (I didnt) So quite being so damn hypersensative and acting like you may die because you have read two simalir posts. and yes, it is just you.
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bandycoot
Nov 28, 2005, 8:08 PM
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What route did you "solo?"
I think that a good criteria for soloing would be to ask yourself this question: Would I have felt the same level of comfort at 100'?
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welikoa
Nov 28, 2005, 8:16 PM
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It was the cave at Mt Woodson. If it was 100 ft up I would have felt comfortable I guess because I know it so well. Its a perfect route to try it on because of the flat landing that you can protect really well.
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dingus
Nov 28, 2005, 8:43 PM
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In reply to: Its a perfect route to try it on because of the flat landing that you can protect really well.
Pads. Spotter. Great landing that protects well...
What are you asking about your boulder problem again?
DMT
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bandycoot
Nov 28, 2005, 8:54 PM
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The Cave? Your ass is dragging on the ground for the overhung crux, then the other hard part is maybe 15' up with a perfect landing. If you were so comfortable with it you wouldn't have put out a crashpad etc.
S7
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healyje
Nov 28, 2005, 8:59 PM
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In tightrope, when moving the rope up off the ground in one foot increments, there is a height off the deck at which point your mind no longer wants to instinctively jump off in a "crisis" and instead switches to fighting for control. Every highball/free solo undoubtably has a similar threshold somewhere on it that varies from person to person.
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sidepull
Nov 28, 2005, 9:22 PM
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I'm pretty sure I remember a story in Climbing's "Hot Flashes" about a guy who used similar tactics - no ropes, a pad and spotters - to climb a .13d in Hell Cave, American Fork. The author described it as the hardest solo in the US.
At some level we're really being esoteric here: did you use the right starting holds, were you off route a bit, did you skip bolts, etc. I liked a comment made by Steven Jeffrey in a bouldering vid that was on DrTopo a while back. He was in a competition (I think at hounds' ears) and he was trying to do a dyno sequence that would skip a crux hold. After completing the dyno - and it was pretty sick - the camera man asked him if he would record his score. At first he said no, (I'm paraphrasing), bouldering is contrived anyway and he didn't climb "the" problem.
In the same way, questions of style are also contrived. The kicker is that Matt Bosely was also trying to use Steven's beta and Steven eventually hinted that he'd count the score if Bosely did. This second bit points at the need for social consensus that is inherent in our sport. So, our individual contrivances become rules when others accept our way of doing things. This is how boulder problems become solos, eliminates become classics, etc.
Overall, realizing that it's largely an esoteric exercise that doesn't expand or contract your achievement allows you to keep climbing for the process and experience of the climbing itself and not for the contrived achievements.
Game on Garth.
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dingus
Nov 28, 2005, 9:29 PM
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In reply to: In tightrope, when moving the rope up off the ground in one foot increments, there is a height off the deck at which point your mind no longer wants to instinctively jump off in a "crisis" and instead switches to fighting for control. Every highball/free solo undoubtably has a similar threshold somewhere on it that varies from person to person.
As I've gotten older that jumping off height has decreased... I'm down to about 2 feet now!
DMT
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soulsurfer
Nov 28, 2005, 9:53 PM
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I would not consider the Cave at Mt. Woodson a Solo. Even though you can TR it I would say it is a highball. There are boulder problems at J-tree that are taller. I 'highballed' a route at J-tree that people usually 'solo' if they even climb it because the start's hard to protect on lead at 5.11c. It is about 40' tall but I still used a pad so in my mind I would consider it a highball. My wife considers it a solo but since I promised not to solo I have to claim everything is a highball :wink:
Either way good job on the highball/solo or whatever you choose to call it. It is a grey area that only you can appreciate. People live from 100' falls and have also died from much shorter distances.
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