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aireq
Aug 7, 2002, 12:12 PM
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Registered: Aug 7, 2002
Posts: 43
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First off what's the proper way to start a marked bouldering route? Most at my local gym have a large hand hold which is labled with the name and difficulty of the route. I asummed you are supose to start with both hands on that hold, but does it matter where your feet are? I guess what I want to know is in competitions, what is the legal way to start a climb?
I'm not sure if this was just something my gym did or something that is common at other gyms. They label their routes as various types like Robot, or "All Four Hands". Different types limit things you can use, like whether you can use cracks and features built into the wall. So if someone knows what I'm talking about do you know where I can find out more about this?
eric
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jhwnewengland
Aug 7, 2002, 12:43 PM
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Registered: Jun 2, 2002
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In my gym you usually match hands on that first hold, otherwise there are holds marked "Robot L" and "Robot R," for example. There are three levels of restrictions:
Tracking: Can only put feet on marked holds.
Tracking and jibs: can use marked holds and small screw-on holds for feet.
All feet: Can put feet anywhere.
As far as using cracks or features built in to the wall, I don't know because my gym doesn't have those. Hope that helped.
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beyond_gravity
Aug 7, 2002, 3:56 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2002
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It was kinnda funny...I was at the gym and there was the huge bouldering trying to crimp his way up micro edges and using a hand crack as a sidepull for one hand. The route said all features were in, So I jammed up the crack! That really pissed him off...!
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xanx
Aug 8, 2002, 3:42 AM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
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lol nice.
my gym doesn't have sculpted walls, so no features besides edges and stuff. Basically, only taped holds are on, and you must start matched on the start and with both feet off the ground before you do the first move. To finish, you must control the last hold, which means you must grab it and be able to hold on to it (one hand or both) without using any feet (for some sick finishes it just means you have to hold on to it and still have control). You can only smear on walls that have tape for that route i.e. you can not use a wall at a 90 angle to smear on if there is nothing there from that route. All wall edges have to be tapped to grap it.
hope this helps; the guys at my gym compete a lot and are strict with the rules, so this *should* be pretty accurate.
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the_elk
Aug 8, 2002, 4:45 AM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2002
Posts: 200
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In my gym the bouldering is set up pretty much the same way as the climbs. It's all color coded.
The only boulder problems that have official (for the gym) grades and names are the endurance ones that go around the length of the bouldering area.
Apart from that we do also eliminate holds at times to make things harder or decide to make up our own problems using certain types of holds.
ooooh, I'm all excited about heading down there again tonight...
Cheers
Elk
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