|
nounsolicitedbeta
Dec 3, 2005, 12:00 AM
Post #1 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2004
Posts: 12
|
hi there:
i've been to jtree twice before and only bouldered. i know i should learn to trad lead but, for now, i'm only a sport leader. can anyone recommend any moderate bolted routes with bolted anchors?
thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
fernregan
Dec 3, 2005, 12:16 AM
Post #2 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2005
Posts: 56
|
Sport climbing in Joshua Tree is not for the faint of heart, expect distance between each bolt. Be aware that if you slip your nose might get grated off. While you are driving through the town of JT stop at Joshua Tree Outfitters (2 stores down from Crossroads Cafe on Rte 62) when I was there last winter they had a photocopied list of a bunch of sport climbs of all levels. Ask them about their 'ballistic butt' pants too. If you're an ass dragger like me on the JT walk-offs it'll pay off.
|
|
|
|
|
slavetogravity
Dec 3, 2005, 12:20 AM
Post #3 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 1114
|
The “moderate” sport climbing in J-tree suck, unless you like run out slab, easy well protected modern sport routes are few and far between. I’d recommend picking up a modest rack of gear to climb some of the fun and easy trad lines or just forget the rope all together and stick to the bouldeing. But if you can’t be persuaded by me I’d say Double Dip sticks out in my mid as an ok 5.6 with bolts, and an anchor.
|
|
|
|
|
erclimb
Dec 3, 2005, 12:27 AM
Post #4 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2002
Posts: 204
|
fernregan is right...sport climbing is a relative term at j-tree...go to headstone rock and do southeast arete--a sweet 5.6 that is short but insanely exposed, the bolts are sporty; just to the right is a fun 5.8...then hit echo rock, double dip is 5.6 but the bolts are definitely not sporty and you'll want a big cam to protect between the first and second, the climbing is easy; 20 yards to the right is stichter quits a 5.7 with more unsporty bolts but plenty of room for a running belay; to the right is stick to what a 10 with friendlier bolts but you better know how to climb slab...the corrall wall in rattlesnake canyon (indian cove area) has several sporty 9s and 10s...walk on the wild side is sandbagged at 5.7 and definitely not sporty but oh so much fun, but you'll need a small cam to protect between bolts 2 and 3...you'll definitely want a guide book just to find your way around
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Dec 3, 2005, 12:31 AM
Post #5 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
If you want to sport climb, you might prefer going elsewhere. JT isn't that close to SF. Plenty of other places to go.
In reply to: i should learn to trad lead
If you feel that way, then why not?
|
|
|
|
|
tigerbythetail
Dec 3, 2005, 12:31 AM
Post #6 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 514
|
http://www.climbingjtree.com./...eries/all_sport.html
Most tend towards the wrong side of vertical, but they are sport routes - all bolted with bolted anchors and well-protected to boot. There are hundreds, yes I said hundreds of sport routes in Josh. Trouble is they're scattered all over the place, the rock isn't always the best and your tips will probably give out before your forearms.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Dec 3, 2005, 12:37 AM
Post #8 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
New Jack City is the good sport climbing area in Joshua Tree. 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
nounsolicitedbeta
Dec 3, 2005, 12:48 AM
Post #9 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2004
Posts: 12
|
In reply to: In reply to: i should learn to trad lead If you feel that way, then why not?
fear. and a lack of a rack. but mainly just fear. i'm trying to get over it.
|
|
|
|
|
blitzkrieg_climber13
Dec 3, 2005, 1:00 AM
Post #10 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2005
Posts: 288
|
my suggestions are only in Indian Cove cuz thats the only place ive been in the past 10 years besides doing a few routes in lost horse. ok some good bolted stuff can be found on Pixie Rock, there is a really cool 10c/d on the left side of feudal wall and a really nice 11d called pocket pool on the top to the left of la reina. and a few bolted routes on Campfire crag. i recommend heart slab. super fun route. there is a lot of bolted stuff in Indian cove plus a lot of cool people. i recommend trying that area out. plus you can reserve a campsite.
|
|
|
|
|
blouderk2
Dec 3, 2005, 1:33 AM
Post #11 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2004
Posts: 343
|
There isnt a whole hell of a lot of sport in jtree. The sport climbs that are there are hard and runout from what I remember. The only sport climbs that are moderate that come to mind are on Headstone Rock. I suggest you head down towards New Jack City which is a sport crag. Good luck
|
|
|
|
|
gunksgoer
Dec 3, 2005, 3:43 AM
Post #12 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290
|
I only did one "sport route" in josh. 80 feet, 4 bolts 1 pin. The crux was well protected, but then there was a 30+ foot runout to the anchors, which someone just forgot to mention. It was fun though...
|
|
|
|
|
fredbob
Dec 5, 2005, 4:22 PM
Post #13 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 7, 2003
Posts: 455
|
In reply to: http://www.climbingjtree.com./...eries/all_sport.html Most tend towards the wrong side of vertical, but they are sport routes - all bolted with bolted anchors and well-protected to boot. There are hundreds, yes I said hundreds of sport routes in Josh. Trouble is they're scattered all over the place, the rock isn't always the best and your tips will probably give out before your forearms.
This is the true beta, the other comments are to varying degrees misinformed (though I'd agree if you are just looking for sport routes New Jack is abetter place to go.)
|
|
|
|
|
feline143
Feb 3, 2006, 9:45 PM
Post #14 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2005
Posts: 91
|
Yes I realize this thread it 2 months old but for anyone who, like me, is looking around for more Jtree data, there is a good site for info on sport climbs:
http://joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGuest/centralsport.htm
Of course they are selling membership to get more extensive lists but the free stuff is pretty good too.
|
|
|
|
|
raymondjeffrey
Feb 3, 2006, 11:07 PM
Post #15 of 15
(4458 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 361
|
Do Loose Lady 5.9, great photo opp and peerless view.
Jefro
|
|
|
|
|
|
