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surf_crazy75
Dec 17, 2005, 7:50 PM
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When I read a guidebook, it gives advice on protection. For example, on Double-Cross (Joshua Tree) it says "Pro: 1 to 2 inches". What does that mean? The cam should be able to fit into a 1 to 2 inch crack? Or the cam should be 1 to 2 inches when the cam is not triggered? How does that relate to nuts and hexes? The nut should be able to be wedged into a 1 to 2 inch crack?
Normally I look at the rating (5.8,5.9) then look at the route with binoculars and judge for myself what I'll need going up.
Any help would be appreciated.
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chossmonkey
Dec 17, 2005, 7:55 PM
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Look in the front of the book it should explain. It could be the size range you need for the route or a size you need lots of.
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healyje
Dec 17, 2005, 8:22 PM
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This would typically mean the pro on the route runs in that range, i.e. you can leave your 0.25" and 4" cams on the ground. That said I encourage folks to not get too addicted to guide books and this sort of beta and develop the skills to just eyeball routes and decide for yourself even if it means bringing up extra stuff or a "standard" rack...
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jt512
Dec 19, 2005, 5:00 AM
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In reply to: When I read a guidebook, it gives advice on protection. For example, on Double-Cross (Joshua Tree) it says "Pro: 1 to 2 inches". What does that mean?
Well, in the case of Double Cross, it will mean that you wished you had a couple #3's, for starters.
Jay
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robdotcalm
Dec 19, 2005, 5:09 AM
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As any long time denizen of the Internet will tell you, Double Cross was bolted years ago. Just bring some quick draws.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
_______________________________________________________
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sungam
Jan 6, 2006, 9:11 PM
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personally i would suggest always using protection, just in case.
but if the situation allows, for example she just had her tests and is on the pill, then i dont see why you couldn't just go for it.
keep it real.
-magnus
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caughtinside
Jan 6, 2006, 9:27 PM
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some interesting thoughts there magnus. If you show up with only 1-2", I bet most chicks would start laughing hysterically.
To the op, you're on the right track. Take your binoculars to double cross, and report back here with your findings.
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sentinel
Jan 7, 2006, 12:20 AM
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In reply to: Double Cross was bolted years ago. Just bring some quick draws
PLEASE God let this be a troll.
1 to 2 inch size piece = #1 Camalot #2 Camalot or a Red Camalot and a Gold/Yellow Camalot. Don't mistake the red for the 4.5 Camalot. Try and get your numbers dialed on gear. Nothing worse then calling down from a lead and telling your partner to send up the red cam (when you are in a #1 size crack), and you end up with the wrong red cam (4.5 Cam instead a #1). Numbers are key.
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microbdcamalot
Jan 13, 2006, 11:40 PM
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send gear up? Whoa...this is going to start a fight, but how can you say you cleanly lead a route by stopping and having your partner send you up more cams because you were to shy on having "extra weight"......not looking for a fight, just some opinions without cursing.
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climbingaz
Jan 14, 2006, 12:07 AM
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In reply to: send gear up? Whoa...this is going to start a fight, but how can you say you cleanly lead a route by stopping and having your partner send you up more cams
Who said anything about leading "cleanly"?
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sentinel
Jan 17, 2006, 5:02 PM
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What I ment was - IF you can get to a spot on a pitch where you can get a good stance lets say in a chimney or anywhere you can get a no hands rest. What I like to do is tag up what I need. For example: Midterm on Arch rock - Yosemite, just before you get into the chimney off width, I'll get locked into the offwidth and with my free hands I'll pull up the #5 cam to walk the rest of the way. Also at the same time I'll take the rest of the rack and drop it between my legs on my speed dasie or just lower it down after I pull up the piece I need to finish the pitch. It reduces the weight but more importantly (especially in offwidths and chimney's) it takes away all the awkwardness of having to fight the rack on your back. I probably confused the hell out of you with this explaination. PM and I can go into greater detail if you need. And yes I've still CLEANLY lead the pitch. I normally use this technique on walls but if I run into the "oh shit I need that .75 cam" and I can find a good stance, then this same technique still applies.
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sungam
Jan 5, 2011, 5:54 AM
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caughtinside wrote: some interesting thoughts there magnus. If you show up with only 1-2", I bet most chicks would start laughing hysterically.
(This post was edited by sungam on Jan 5, 2011, 5:55 AM)
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