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tagaustatoppen
Dec 30, 2005, 3:34 PM
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I am visiting California for the first time really and have heard about how similar Joshua Tree is to the City of Rocks, Idaho. So I am now in the San Diego area and have planed to go to Joshua Tree to climb. I brought no trad gear. Only 12 draws and one rope and several harnesses. I am just looking for a little advise as to what good routes there are under 5.9. I will have my girlfriend and her brother with me, they have never been climbing before so we might even like to know some good routes that are in the 5.5 to 5.6 rang too. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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vegastradguy
Dec 30, 2005, 3:39 PM
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well bud, without a rack, you're pretty much SOL- josh is very much a trad area. Are there sport climbs? Here and there, but I'm not sure there are any 5.9 and under- most bolted routes are either bold slab climbs (many of which require trad gear for anchor) or difficult face climbs (many of which are run-out)- the easiest i've ever come across in Josh is .10b.
There are plenty of moderate routes around the park of course, but without trad gear....
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tagaustatoppen
Dec 30, 2005, 3:45 PM
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what are you considering a trad rack? just a set or two of nuts and a set of cams or hex's? I have a set of nuts that I brought just In case for an anchor but I dont have any cams with me. Is most of it one pitch? and can you walk to the top to top rope much?
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curt
Dec 30, 2005, 3:52 PM
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In reply to: what are you considering a trad rack? just a set or two of nuts and a set of cams or hex's? I have a set of nuts that I brought just In case for an anchor but I dont have any cams with me. Is most of it one pitch? and can you walk to the top to top rope much?
You can TR almost anything in Joshua Tree. Without a rack, that might be your best bet. However, with just draws, you can do the two really nice easy routes on Headstone Rock--SW Corner and Cryptic. They are 5.6 and 5.7, respectively--I think. You have to rap off Headstone though.
Curt
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vegastradguy
Dec 30, 2005, 4:02 PM
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In reply to: You can TR almost anything in Joshua Tree. Without a rack, that might be your best bet.
true- but without cams and/or hexes, many natural anchors may not be an option.
i'll leave it to the locals to give you better beta for the routes you can do this with- all of the routes i've climbed there so far require leading on gear to get to the bolted anchor or require medium to large cams for the anchor.
btw- i consider a trad rack for josh a double set of cams to 3" and a 4" cam and a set and a half of stoppers.
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talons05
Dec 30, 2005, 4:02 PM
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Hmm... Not a lot of sport out there. You could always buy a couple of big hexes at the local shop. You will need some if you want to TR! (It would be cheaper than buying a couple of cams...) There are some good moderate trad routes (5.6-5.8) on "Intersection Rock," which is a major campground. (No real approach, so that's nice) If I remember right, there are a FEW 5.9 bolted routes, but as has been said, they are pretty bold. I got on one and bailed because my balls weren't very big that day...
Many routes CAN be TR'd, with a little scrambling and 4th class.
LENTICULAR DOME: There is a route on this feature called "Dazed and Confused" that is a great TR slab route and a classic climb. I believe it's a 5.9 and I'm pretty sure that you can scramble up the back side of the dome to access it. Also on this feature, is "mental physics" a sweeeeeeet 5.7 crack. You could definitely lead this with some nuts and hexes (might want 3 or four of the medium sizes...
Hope that helps, have a good trip!
Cheers,
A.W.
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curt
Dec 30, 2005, 4:19 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: You can TR almost anything in Joshua Tree. Without a rack, that might be your best bet. true- but without cams and/or hexes, many natural anchors may not be an option. i'll leave it to the locals to give you better beta for the routes you can do this with-
He said he has a set of nuts. With that, he can set-up hundreds of TR routes in JT, as long as he buys some longer webbing for making slings. Oh, and I am a local.
Curt
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curt
Dec 30, 2005, 4:21 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: You can TR almost anything in Joshua Tree. Without a rack, that might be your best bet. true- but without cams and/or hexes, many natural anchors may not be an option. i'll leave it to the locals to give you better beta for the routes you can do this with-
He said he has a set of nuts. With that, he can set-up hundreds of TR routes in JT, as long as he buys some longer webbing for making slings. Oh, and I am a local.
Curt
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ambler
Dec 30, 2005, 4:25 PM
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In reply to: LENTICULAR DOME: There is a route on this feature called "Dazed and Confused" that is a great TR slab route and a classic climb. I believe it's a 5.9 and I'm pretty sure that you can scramble up the back side of the dome to access it. Also on this feature, is "mental physics" a sweeeeeeet 5.7 crack. You could definitely lead this with some nuts and hexes (might want 3 or four of the medium sizes... Hope that helps, have a good trip! |
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bluering
Dec 30, 2005, 4:29 PM
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Try 'stichter quits' (aka Black Tide) or 'double dip'. They are 5.7 and 5.6 respectively and are located on Echo Rock. They are both sport leadable with anchors on top. No pro needed. SW corner of Headstone is also nice. Also in Echo Cove there is a newer route just to the right of RAF with bolts on top. Have fun and good luck!!!!
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talons05
Dec 30, 2005, 4:33 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: LENTICULAR DOME: There is a route on this feature called "Dazed and Confused" that is a great TR slab route and a classic climb. I believe it's a 5.9 and I'm pretty sure that you can scramble up the back side of the dome to access it. Also on this feature, is "mental physics" a sweeeeeeet 5.7 crack. You could definitely lead this with some nuts and hexes (might want 3 or four of the medium sizes... Hope that helps, have a good trip! But ... you've just recommended that a party of three beginners head out for toproping on two of the most classic easy leads in the Wonderland. I wish people would think twice before they do this -- either the climbers, or those offering recommendations.
What's to lead on "Dazed?" I don't remember there being any bolts on that route... And it's a slab... What's the problem? It's not like it's a secret.
Cheers,
A.W.
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jt512
Dec 30, 2005, 4:39 PM
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In reply to: I am visiting California for the first time really and have heard about how similar Joshua Tree is to the City of Rocks, Idaho. So I am now in the San Diego area and have planed to go to Joshua Tree to climb. I brought no trad gear. Only 12 draws and one rope and several harnesses. I am just looking for a little advise as to what good routes there are under 5.9. I will have my girlfriend and her brother with me, they have never been climbing before so we might even like to know some good routes that are in the 5.5 to 5.6 rang too. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
As other's have said, routes at J Tree that you can set a TR up on without building a gear anchor are few and far between. You might want to take your 12 draws to New Jack City, a dedicated 300-route sport crag near Barstow, instead.
Jay
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curt
Dec 30, 2005, 4:50 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: LENTICULAR DOME: There is a route on this feature called "Dazed and Confused" that is a great TR slab route and a classic climb. I believe it's a 5.9 and I'm pretty sure that you can scramble up the back side of the dome to access it. Also on this feature, is "mental physics" a sweeeeeeet 5.7 crack. You could definitely lead this with some nuts and hexes (might want 3 or four of the medium sizes... Hope that helps, have a good trip! But ... you've just recommended that a party of three beginners head out for toproping on two of the most classic easy leads in the Wonderland. I wish people would think twice before they do this -- either the climbers, or those offering recommendations. What's to lead on "Dazed?" I don't remember there being any bolts on that route... And it's a slab... What's the problem? It's not like it's a secret. Cheers, A.W.
I've led "Dazed and Confused" - it has bolts.
Curt
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enjoimx
Dec 30, 2005, 4:54 PM
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Check it out....
Go to Echo Cove and check out some face climbs on the north-west side in the cove. These will be in the sun most of the day. Once you lead the 5.6/5.7, set a top rope for a thin crack to the right called "Pinky Lee". You will have hours of fun watching your friends try to send the 3 move wonder. You could also go to the other side directly across from Pinky Lee and set up a top rope on "Big Moe" a 5.11 face climb.
Also, check out Sexy Grandma next to Double Cross. It follows an obvious arete and is well protected. 5.9 but only 1 move of maybe 5.9. This route is super cool.
Hall of Horrors has some more bolted routes if you look around a bit and ask people.
I almost forgot! ...."Loose Lady". Look it up...its a classic bolted route.
There are actually lots of bolted routes in Jtree, so dont be discouraged.
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jeffvoigt
Dec 30, 2005, 4:58 PM
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I would have to agree with some of the above comments, without a good rack you are kinda SOL. I used everything from 00 TCU's to #5 camalots down there. As far as being able to rap off, if you are required to rap off (Headstone rock) there are anchors on top if I am not mistaken, but most of the trad climbs that don't have bolt anchors on top either require you to downclimb off some other side of the rock, or of course use a natural anchor of some sort, just be prepared to down climb some tricky stuff. Good luck to ya.
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erclimb
Dec 30, 2005, 5:21 PM
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your question has been posted before...look up joshua tree sport climbing...sw arete on headstone is a fun, sporty, and way exposed 5.6; double dip is fun but most people prefer to protect between the 1st and 2nd bolts with a big cam--the climbing is easy in this section but you'll deck if you fall; stichter quits is great fun but defintely NOT sporty--set up your belayer for a running belay...all three of these climbs are popular so i don't recommend a tr; sw arete is short enough to put three on a single rope...you'll need a 60 m line to rappel and the other two on echo rock are walk offs
now, these are the most convenient sport climbs...contrary to what most posters are saying, there are a lot of bolted routes at j-tree; simply, most people do not go to j-tree for sport...i suggest you buy a guidebook because once you've seen the place, you'll want to go back...or stop by nomad adventures and ask
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longroper
Dec 30, 2005, 6:05 PM
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Check out this website for toprope possibilities.
http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/TopRopes/topropes.htm
It lists a bunch of routes you can toprope and the gear you will need. It would still probably help to have a guidebook too.
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tradrenn
Dec 31, 2005, 9:34 PM
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http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/TopRopes/topropes.htm
To make it easier I fixed the link.
On the other hand can someone advise about bigger gear please.
So far I have Hexes #7 to #11
Camalots to #3 (1 #3)
Set of forged friends
Should I get one more Camalot #3, maybe #4 ?
Are Forged Friend useful at JTree ?
Thank you for your help.
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alleyehave
Feb 19, 2006, 2:09 AM
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http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGuest/centralsport.htm
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chalkfree
Feb 19, 2006, 2:54 AM
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ditch the big hexes, with all those cams you'll just lug em around, pick up some nuts and maybe smaller hexes, you could probly get a couple more small cams, and as far as buying wide gear I spent 14 days climbing there this winter and I had a #3 maxcam and a 3.5 camalot, both of which saw some use, but I never really felt the need for anything bigger. A number four might be handy if you want to do some wider stuff.
Forged friends should be fine if you tie them off, you'll need it now and then.
Good luck.
To the OP
Loose Lady is 9+, classic, and bolted the whole way. I'd try to get on it, unfortunately there's nothing easy on the formation.
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