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maxdacat
Jan 18, 2006, 6:41 PM
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Rockprod.
Thanks for the training manual.....one question.....for me a lot of climbing seems to revolve around (the admittedly vague notion) of being able to hold on ie strength on small holds....how would you recommend training this aspect.....campusing.
I find that on some climbs there may be a thin overhanging start which is usually the crux.....not a problem if the holds are bigger or the angle more gentle.
cheers.
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jto
Jan 18, 2006, 6:59 PM
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Thereīs no need to reach failure when doing hypertrophic training. Thatīs one thing where mr. Hörst is wrong. Anyway, where comes the idea of 5-7 sets? Why couldnīt it be 10 or 3 or 20? I think variety has a big role here too. The only thing that counts is that you can do more work with bigger weights in the future. Again: the progression doesnīt have to be linear. You have good days and bad days.
As thereīs no need to reach failure, itīs easy to adjust the load. Just do more or heavier than before. I does not matter if you did letīs say 5x5 secs @ 20 lbs /5 sec pauses earlier. You can do what ever you can this time or settle for an easy progression and just add a few sets or pounds and do the same 5x5 secs.
One thing worth thinking is the pyramid fashion you use when adding weight. You say you do the first set 7x7 secs, the second 6x7secs and the third 5x7 secs. Iīm wondering how can you keep the reps the same length (7secs) when adding weight and only cutting one set off.
My version of a pyramid system would be more like this:
1st set: 4x10 secs @ 20 lbs/ 5 sec pauses
2nd set: 4x7 secs @ 40 lbs/ 5 sec pauses
3rd set: 4x4 secs @ 60 lbs/ 5 sec pauses
Four reps is not a magic number. When you canīt reach the settled rep length the set ends there so if you have a good day you can do more reps. Of course if you want to take it easy on the first one or two sets to do good today on the heaviets set you can stop the set before failure.
This is the thing you can try to do better next time: add reps, add weight etc. Again I used simple rep and pause lengths to draw a more clear picture here. I think you can change the rep and pause lengths to move more into power end of strength (letīs say 5x5 secs @ X lbs/ 10 sec pauses) or to the endurance end (letīs say 5x10secs @ X lbs/ 5 sec pauses). the longer the pause compared to the rep the more you hit the power end of strength training. The same with weights.
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jto
Jan 18, 2006, 7:27 PM
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A bit more on weight training as itīs a bit of my field so to speak.
- Bodybuilders ARE usually very very strong. The muscle gets stronger by enhanced neural activity or getting bigger. They are not that strong compared to their weight though. Itīs because they do very small amounts of power training. But hey, a 10x250kg deadlift for a 100 kg bodybuilder is a pretty good feat of strength anyway. Itīs a beauty contest but the training is very hard basic strenght training. (Basic here is meaning hypertrophic).
- Itīs true that bodybuilders are not that good in doing multidirectional work like lifting stones if they donīt train for action like it. Strongmen do. I coach a top Finnish strongman among some other pretty strong fellows (and yes, many of them actually are drug free. Drugs are not my game). Strongmen are strong because they train for being strong. The big muscles come more like as a side effect. The other way around with bodybuilders: the strength is a byproduct. Anyway even if this friend of mine can almost close a number four Captain Of Crush gripper and deadlifts 380 kgs he canīt hang on an inch edge at all. Itīs a thing of specifity, again.
- There is NO WAY some training system can give even close the same benefits as drugs. Therefore the neuroendocrine thing is not that amazing a thing. And: bodybuilders do a lot of basic stuff like squat, benches etc. Itīs true though that doing multijoint exercises like squat, deadlift etc. has a bigger effect on body growth hormone and testosterone levels than doing curls etc. And: powerlifters take the juice too.
- You can a) be big and strong, b) smaller and strong. It depends of how and why you train. I personally donīt think there really that much use for real or at least overall body hypertrophic training for climbers. Too much extra weight. Look at Dave Gīs forearms for example.
- Powerlifters very seldom isolate ie. do some small muscle training. Usually they stress the major lifts; squat, bench and deadlift and use some kind of variations of them like close grip benches etc. This is even more true with olympic lifters. Specifity (!!!).
- Usually the basic period consists of more volume on submax weights around 60-85% of ones max. After that comes the neural period where the muscles are trained with 85-105% weights. The idea here is the same as in
recruitment training in climbing. The firing frequency of muscle motor units are trained to get higher.
A lot of text but some thoughts anyway.
:)
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nafod
Jan 18, 2006, 7:57 PM
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Here's an excellent article by Dr. Kraemer on strength training in general.
http://www.physsportsmed.com/issues/2003/0803/kraemer.htm
And here's an excerpt from another article by Dr. Kraemer...
In reply to: Little is known concerning the testosterone response to varying the sequence of exercises during resistance training. It has been suggested that large muscle-mass exercises be performed prior to small muscle-mass exercises.[1] The hypothesis is that performance of large muscle-mass exercises (i.e. squat, deadlift, power clean) early in the workout may produce significant elevations in testosterone, which potentially may expose smaller muscles to a greater response than that resulting from performance of small muscle-mass exercises only. This hypothesis recently examined. Hansen et al.[28] measured muscle strength changes in the elbow flexor muscles following 9 weeks of resistance training. However, one group performed a workout consisting of elbow flexion exercises only and a second group performed lower-body exercises prior to the elbow exercises. Performing elbow-flexion exercises only failed to acutely elevate testosterone significantly. However, testosterone was significantly elevated when lower-body exercises were performed first, and muscle strength increased to a greater extent as well when both lower- and upper-body exercises were performed. These data provide support for performing large muscle mass, multiple-joint exercises early in a workout and smaller muscle mass exercises later in the workout when training to enhance muscle strength.
and from the same article (paraphrased)
In reply to: Resistance exercise elevates human GH (growth hormone) through 30 minutes post exercise for both men and women...protocols eliciting high lactate values (e.g. moderate to high in intensity, high in volume, stress large muscle mass, use relatively short rest intervals) tend to produce the most substantial GH responses.
He hammers home the moderate to high intensity, high volume, and short rest meme. Paper is Hormonal Responses and Adaptations to Resistance Exercise and Training, William J. Kraemer and Nicholas A. Ratamess Sports Med 2005; 35 (4): 339-361
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jto
Jan 18, 2006, 8:14 PM
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The above is true as I stated in my text. I recall the first time of reading Kraemers studies as early as 1990 or so. The same arguments then too and I think the study here might be a part II for the older one.
Anyway this is not so well suited for a climber who wants to keep his weight down. Also itīs not so beneficial to train body strength with high lactate stuff as it makes it more difficult to recuperate for climbing.
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wyomingclimber
Jan 18, 2006, 8:17 PM
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In reply to: A bit more on weight training as itīs a bit of my field so to speak. - Bodybuilders ARE usually very very strong. The muscle gets stronger by enhanced neural activity or getting bigger. They are not that strong compared to their weight though. Itīs because they do very small amounts of power training. But hey, a 10x250kg deadlift for a 100 kg bodybuilder is a pretty good feat of strength anyway. Itīs a beauty contest but the training is very hard basic strenght training. (Basic here is meaning hypertrophic).
We don't disagree here, however I define someone with a poor general strength to weight ratio weak. I also consider someone who cannot use their strength in a novel task to be weak.
As far as bodybuilding being a tough beauty contest, no way. I once saw a show on Miss America contestants and they have it sooo much tougher. 6 hours a day of aerobics on three lettuce leaves, all that hair removal, surgery... The catty mind games alone would leave Mr. America in tears. And then there's the pulling of the duct tape off their butt cheeks. Oy...
In reply to: - Itīs true that bodybuilders are not that good in doing multidirectional work like lifting stones if they donīt train for action like it. Strongmen do. I coach a top Finnish strongman among some other pretty strong fellows (and yes, many of them actually are drug free. Drugs are not my game). Strongmen are strong because they train for being strong. The big muscles come more like as a side effect. The other way around with bodybuilders: the strength is a byproduct. Anyway even if this friend of mine can almost close a number four Captain Of Crush gripper and deadlifts 380 kgs he canīt hang on an inch edge at all. Itīs a thing of specifity, again.
Again, I find myself in complete agreement with you. But with climbing, big muscle are a really unfortunate byproduct. The holy grail for a climber would be to get stronger without gaining weight, yes? Therefore I question strong hypertrophy focus (though I may be wrong.) In my 15 years of climbing, I've found muscle size in climbers to be entirely genetic. I have friends that look like they were sculpted by Michealangelo (sp?), but a lot of times I get my scrawny, love handle adorned a$$ up the climb first.
In reply to: - There is NO WAY some training system can give even close the same benefits as drugs. Therefore the neuroendocrine thing is not that amazing a thing. And: bodybuilders do a lot of basic stuff like squat, benches etc. Itīs true though that doing multijoint exercises like squat, deadlift etc. has a bigger effect on body growth hormone and testosterone levels than doing curls etc. And: powerlifters take the juice too.
There are many reasons IMHO that climbing is the greatest sport in the world, but one of the biggest is that it doesn't really respond that well to drugs. I got involved (badly) in bike racing for a while and let me tell you, it's really disgusting.
As far as Dave G's foreams go, they are definitely an interesting example (particularly compared to say, F. Nicole's.) All I can think is that he has such perfect tendon insertions that he can create an enormous amount of force through leverage vs a lot of pulling power.
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squierbypetzl
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Jan 18, 2006, 9:29 PM
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In reply to: even if this friend of mine can almost close a number four Captain Of Crush gripper....
HC!!! For those who donīt know what that is, a N.4 Captain of Crush gripper is 365lbs, that means excerting 365 lbs of pressure/force with 1 hand!!
damn, you could crush a (choose any body part) with that kind of strength...
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jto
Jan 18, 2006, 9:50 PM
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wyomingclimber,
As you can read elsewhere in my text we agree in I think all the stuff. Letīs have a beer or three :D
squierbypetzl,
BUT: he still canīt hang on that inch wide edge HAHAHA! :D
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rockprodigy
Jan 20, 2006, 12:30 AM
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Thanks all of you for your valuable contributions to this discussion! This is exactly why I posted my program, to "fish" for comments from other people.
I'm very interested in this neuroendocrine response. One suggested workout plan for climbers to potentially benefit from this would be this: Warmup as usual (20-30min ARc, gradually increasing the intensity) then work harder boulder problems...possibly steep problems with big holds that won't overly tax your finger strength, but will involve your larger muscle groups, then do your hangboard, or campus board workout. My progressive warmup may be doing this somewhat already, but I don't know enough about the required intensity, duration and volume to know. It would be interesting to measure testosterone levels of climbers as Kraemer did...I suppose some sort of blood sample would be required?
Another thing I would like to point out: My article heavily emphasizes training tools like the hangboard and campus board, but my training does not. What I mean is, I discussed these tools a lot because there isn't a lot of useful information available on them. However, I don't spend that high of a percentage of my total training time on these tools.
The three month schedule I posted has approximately 192 hours of total training time as I've estimated it. For every Hangboard workout, I spend an hour warming up and cooling down by climbing (bouldering), and an hour for the workout, which really is only 15 minutes of total elapsed time on the hangboard...the campus board is even less. Assuming a hangboard workout was a complete hour on the board for the sake of argument, that would only be a total of 10 or 11 hours of hangboard time per training cycle, and 4 hours on the campus board. That's somewhere around 7% of the total training time spent on these tools...the rest (93%) of the time is spent on climbing activities such as ARC, 4x4's or bouldering and climbing outdoors.
Furthermore, my focus on forearm training assumes that your forearm (finger) strength is usually the limiting factor in your climbing. This assumption may not be true for every climber or every type of climbing. However, even a hangboard loads your arms, shoulders, upper back, etc., even in a static hang.
Someone asked about the size of my forearms...I don't know how big they are relative to other people. I think they're about normal, but my wife thinks they're enormous...on second thought...she's right, they're huge. Do you think that hypertrophy isn't useful for climbers? I always thought that the idea of a periodized program was to build muscle mass early in the cycle (HYP), then do power exercises (Max R) to make that muscle mass useful for climbing.
to "maxdacat" - I believe my program focuses heavily on training finger strength as you have asked. My program is pretty far to the extreme of focusing purely on finger strength.
jto - your suggestions on varying rep lengths, rest periods etc. are interesting. I'm not sure I believe you that failure is not necessary. Sure, absolute failure may not be necessary, but don't you want to get as close to failure as possible? Otherwise, why not just do one easy rep and call it good? I will try mixing things up like suggest...god knows it gets boring doing the same thing all the time!
In reply to: - Usually the basic period consists of more volume on submax weights around 60-85% of ones max. After that comes the neural period where the muscles are trained with 85-105% weights. The idea here is the same as in recruitment training in climbing. The firing frequency of muscle motor units are trained to get higher.
I believe I am hitting this sort of mix with volume and intensity levels with my mix of hangboard workouts and campusing...at least, that is the intent.
In reply to: protocols eliciting high lactate values (e.g. moderate to high in intensity, high in volume, stress large muscle mass, use relatively short rest intervals) tend to produce the most substantial GH responses.
This description sounds to me like what we climbers would call "Power Endurance" work because he's talking about high volume, short rest intervals, producing high lactate and getting the heart pumping. I don't know enough about generic weight lifting like squats, and "O" lifts, but do they do that?
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nafod
Jan 20, 2006, 2:12 AM
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In reply to: I'm very interested in this neuroendocrine response.... In reply to: protocols eliciting high lactate values (e.g. moderate to high in intensity, high in volume, stress large muscle mass, use relatively short rest intervals) tend to produce the most substantial GH responses. This description sounds to me like what we climbers would call "Power Endurance" work because he's talking about high volume, short rest intervals, producing high lactate and getting the heart pumping. I don't know enough about generic weight lifting like squats, and "O" lifts, but do they do that?
Oh yeah. I could picture a number of workouts mixing the high intensity stuff with hangboard, where the hangboard time would be your "rest". You could do 30 seconds of burpees or bodyweight squats or dumbbell swings (or some fixed number of reps) then jump on the hangboard to "relax". One thing you'll find is that although you might feel wiped from the hi- intensity set as you clamp on to the hangboard, you'll perform about the same as if you'd just sat on the couch. A worthy lesson in itself. I see this all the time in workouts where as I start up on pullups, my heart rate's maxed out. You want to rest a little, but if you just jump in to the next exercise, you find that you didn't need the rest.
Frankly, I'm not a trainer, so I'd seek better advice from an expert. The crossfit site forum would enjoy blabbering about the idea...it's an interesting question.
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jto
Jan 20, 2006, 9:24 AM
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Well I am a trainer and would like to give some contribution to the discussion.
About failure: what is the difference between failure and absolute failure? In weight training itīs not so good to reach failure (not being able to do any reps) all the time. This is more demanding on the nervous system and usually you have to train less frequently that way. This is bad for technique.
This is very important in difficult multijoint exercises like cleans. Olympic lifters usually train the same movement 3-6 times a week and usually stop the set way before failure.
Anyway when deadhanging I myself have done a lot of sets to failure (not being able to complete the desired rep time) and it has worked very well. Sometimes I even do 3-4 sets back to back either cutting off weight and useing the same hold or moving from smaller hold to a bigger one.
I think variety has a big role here. If you go to failure all the time you reach the peak sooner and thatīs it. If you go easier sometimes you can go much longer and have greater gains.
What I mean by easy is not playing with flowers. I mean that I might do a set of 10x5secs @ 50 lbs/5 sec pauses and might be able to do 1-2 reps more. There is plenty of work already and I can leave something for the next time too.
Also going wavelike in your program is very beneficial. You go up in stress and back down to start again a bit higher. A simplified example:
1. 5x5 secs @ 40 lbs/ 5 sec pauses
2. 5x5 secs @ 50 lbs/ 5 sec pauses
3. 5x5 secs @ 60 lbs/ 5 sec pauses
4. 6x6 secs @ 45 lbs/ 4 sec pauses
5. 6x6 secs @ 55 lbs/ 4 sec pauses
6. 6x6 secs @ 65 lbs/ 4 sec pauses
or
4. 5x5 secs @50 lbs / 5 sec pauses
5. 5x5 secs @60 lbs / 5 sec pauses
6. 5x5 secs @70 lbs / 5 sec pauses
etc. there a hundreds of variations how to build up a progression. This way you give your body a rest by training easier every 3-4 weeks. This prevents injuries pretty good and gives a longer progression on weights.
About neuroendocrine training FOR CLIMBERS: What Kraemer means as a high lactic acid training is mainly basic bodybuilding regimen ie 3x10reps etc. This produces enough lactic acid yet the amount of weights are big enough to give good hypertrophic gains. So itīs not PE training really. In climbing the same would be doing something like Hörst HIT-board or bouldering for 10-20 hard moves.
Climbing does not raise your OVERALL level of lactic acids that much even if the forearms are burning like hell. Thatīs why to have any benefits from this hormonal response you should do some very heavy weight training bedofe hangs. It really matters how you produce the acidic environment. By doing light exercise like jumping jacks of treadmill doesnīt do it. The load is too low. An example again:
After warmup:
- Deadlift, power clean of similar whole body stuff: 2-4 sets, 8-10 reps until failure or very close.
- Hangs or hard bouldering for HYP strength. This doesnīt have to occur immediately after deadlifts.
I donīt think climbers really benefit from this kind of training even if basic strength is ok. The hormonal response from training really isnīt at all that big and you usually need more than one big exercise to produce such a gains. That makes you more like a bodybuilder who trains also his hanging strentgh...
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nafod
Jan 20, 2006, 1:28 PM
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Hypertrophy, women, and climbers...
I always smile when I see women and climbers getting all worried about hypertrophy. "Oh my gosh, if I do squats, I'll swell up like a tick!"
If only it were so easy. Gyms are full of folks desperate to swell up like ticks. My experience with the Kraemer-ish type workouts is I've just gotten stronger. OK, legs are a bit bigger too, but I ski patrol, so that's A Good Thing.
I'm going to have to try a couple of Oly clean/hangboard workouts, see how it goes. On ewhere it's mixed, one where it's not. I'll report back.
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jto
Jan 20, 2006, 2:54 PM
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As I have pretty much experience on this field I usually smile then too... In the case of women itīs understandable, they have very much lower hormone levels than men. Although I know a couple of sweet ladies who canīt squat at all as their jeans get smaller immediately...Or is it that their thighs grow. This is very much a genetic thing too.
The muscles donīt come overnight but I really donīt see a point in building ANY excess muscle mass as a climber. I used to be 30 kilos heavier than Iīm now and it took me 13 years to gain it and I didnīt even train for hypertrophy. I got strong but luckily I didnīt gain muscles that easily as some do. Anyway I wouldnīt want any of the kilos back when on a route crux shaking in the pool of acids :D
Strength can be trained without any gained mass but workout like that donīt give the same hormonal response as discussed. So I still stand behind my opinion. Anyway (my favourite English word :D ) I wouldnīt stop anybody from trying. One thing that might help from gaining extra weight is keeping the calories on a bit negative side when starting this "neuroendocrine" training. Silly word... why donīt they just use hypertrophic weight training or bodybuilding :)
Cheers.
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crackers
Jan 24, 2006, 2:34 PM
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This couldn't have come up at a better time for me personally. After a two year layoff, I am getting back to the gym again for the first time.
What do people think about doing hypertrophy/fingers on the same day as hypertrophy/upperbody? I tried last night night and it just about killed me. I did a finger workout first, and i was just wrecked when i tried to lift (crossfit o-lift workout). I have some question about how rested I was, but I am curious about whether people lift on the same day that they do a climbing hypertrophy workout.
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jt512
Jan 24, 2006, 4:19 PM
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In reply to: This couldn't have come up at a better time for me personally. After a two year layoff, I am getting back to the gym again for the first time. What do people think about doing hypertrophy/fingers on the same day as hypertrophy/upperbody? I tried last night night and it just about killed me. I did a finger workout first, and i was just wrecked when i tried to lift (crossfit o-lift workout). I have some question about how rested I was, but I am curious about whether people lift on the same day that they do a climbing hypertrophy workout.
I think that if you try to do heavy finger workouts after a 2-year layoff from climbing that you're practically guaranteeing yourself a pulley injury. Stick with lower loads for a few months, doing endurance training.
Jay
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crackers
Jan 24, 2006, 4:37 PM
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Let me say that i was doing new route development mixed with actually climbing once a month or so, and that i wasn't going to climbing gyms regularly during the layoff: its been two years without GYMS not without climbing. Additionally, I am already did a gradual plastic build up to get to the point where i am comfortable with hypertrophy training again.
But that's besides the point: Do people who lift do hypertrophy training for their fingers on the same day, or even in the same workout as they lift? What experience do you have with that?
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jto
Jan 24, 2006, 7:35 PM
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I have 190 lbs left in me and some still from my weight training career so I avoid all hypertrophic training like a poison. Other type of strength and power training is done of course. I usually train my fingers only when climbing but sometimes I do some finger and wrist curls when doing weights. This never happens the same day before climbing workout. I might do other kind of strength workout or run for few miles during the day if I have easier climbing workout in the evening.
Iīve had good experiences mixing dynamic and static strength in training with weights so I see finger curls have their place in training for climbing too but IMHO very marginal one.
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rockprodigy
Jan 25, 2006, 12:33 AM
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Crackers - I will sometimes lift after my hangboard workout, but my lifting routine is pretty quick. I will, however, usually eat a soy protein bar (in addition to lots of water, and maybe gatorade) immediately after my hangboard workout, then lift. That seems to raise my blood sure enough to make it through lifting before I eat a proper meal.
jto - you keep hinting at other stuff you do for "strength and power" that is not hypertrophy. Could you elaborate?
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bigrock
Jan 25, 2006, 3:23 AM
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Two weeks rest every 3-4 months sounds like a lot. I don't know a lot of committed climbers that take that much continuous time off. But then I also know a lot of climbers with overuse injuries. I would be interested in hearing opinions on how much rest is optimal? Of course you need rest days every week. My opinion is that at least 3 rest days/week from climbing workouts is about right. But how about the continuous two weeks off? I would be interested in other opinions on how long and often the extended rest should be.
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jto
Jan 25, 2006, 6:42 AM
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rockprodigy,
The main thing is to keep the reps low enough to avoid excess hypertrophy and high enough to stimulate the protein metabolism. Also the total volume has to be usually quite high. If the reps are kept in the normal hypertophic range of 6-12 itīs easier to gain weight.
Example: take a load you can do pretty comfortably 3x4 reps with. Letīs say 3x4x200 lbs. This could be around 80% of the one rep max. Then try to up the volume with that weight or preferably add some. You might have a goal of 6x6x210 lbs in a two month time span. The reps donīt have to be done to absolute failure as it is not required to gain strength. The progression keeps going as the body is adapting to the higher volume.
You can also do this with only one or two "work sets" done to or very close to failure but usually you hit the wall sooner. At least you have to keep changing the reps and perhaps do some variations of one exercise to keep thing going. For example you can switch between different width grip bench presses. Anyway the closer to the failure you go the more time you need to recover.
Both systems can be used in the same period once again to give lifter some added stimulus. After this basic period it is time to recruit. Then the weights are added over 90% of one rep max in usually all the work sets.
Choose only basic exercises like bench, chins, deadlift, cleans and alike as they have better effect on more muscles at the same time and serve more the coordinative stuff too. Train 2-3 times a week per exercise and keep every 3rd or 4th week easier to help the progression.
I use the above model also for powerlifters during the basic period before starting to get ready for a comp. This kind of a system is good as they usually want to keep the weight down for the certain weight classes.
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norsky
Feb 1, 2006, 6:12 AM
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[quote="rockprodigy"] I spend an hour warming up and cooling down by climbing (bouldering), and an hour for the workout
Is that an hour for warming up and another hour for cooling down? Seems like an hour for both combined would be ample.
Great article!
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sidepull
Feb 1, 2006, 3:28 PM
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rockprodigy (and others)- how would you change your work out if your goals were more focused on bouldering?
I know that your forte is hard bigwalls (which isn't to say that your bouldering skills are unimpressive), but say you were thinking "this season I want to send Black Lung or the Mandala or run laps on Copperhead (or maybe get the elusive v13 sit repeat)" what would you do differently?
Obviously I'm asking because I don't see hard Zion FA's in my future, but would love to wrestle harder pebbles this coming fall. Thanks.
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rockprodigy
Feb 1, 2006, 3:40 PM
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That's a half-hour to warmup and a half-hour to cool down, for an hour total.
For bouldering, I would reduce the Power endurance phase, possibly not do it at all...it depends on if you're trying those lame enduro-boulder problems that aren't boulder problems at all, they're actually routes that are four feet off the ground, or if your'e trying an actual boulder problem.
If you're climbing something that's ten moves or less, that you can complete in a minute or less, then a simple set on the hangboard is probably all the endurance you need.
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manacubus
Feb 2, 2006, 6:13 AM
Post #49 of 138
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 141
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Just wanted to thank rockprodigy for putting together the article. In particular, the hangboarding stuff filled a hole in my phased training that was missing.
I've now rigged my own hangboarding system (with conterweights and a stopwatch), written up my own training plan, and did my first session a few days ago. It'll be interesting to see how my grip strength on the rock is affected.
I'd be many further steps behind the 8-ball without rockprodigy's article, so thanks again Mike!
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manacubus
Feb 6, 2006, 11:58 PM
Post #50 of 138
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
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Another post from me!
Im now in my HYP phase, and do two sessions of that per week (one intense weights/lactic tolerance gym session, and one hangboarding session). Now lets say I go out on the weekend and climb a bunch of long, hard, power endurance routes. How detrimental do you think that is to the effectiveness of a phased program? Am I sabotaging myself?
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