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vanclimber
Jan 31, 2006, 12:14 AM
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Possibly moving to Tahoe area in the next 6 months, but I'm not sure exactly where. Can anyone give me some good ideas as to what would be a good base location for a climber who mainly boulders but occasionally trad climbs? Looking at Truckee, but can someone give me pointers? Thanks, Don
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vanclimber
Feb 1, 2006, 5:31 AM
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50 looks and no replies
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climbinginchico
Feb 1, 2006, 5:45 AM
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Better bouldering at South Lake, I believe. Trad at the Leap, and Donner, etc. It's a good place to live if you like climbing... Learn to trad climb more.
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cal_gundert05
Feb 1, 2006, 5:50 AM
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There'a a great description of Tahoe bouldering in the Dec/Jan issue of Rock and Ice...unfortunately, the cover says "display until Jan 15, 2006" Ask around for the mag, but if no one has it check http://www.rockandice.com for the beta or you can buy a back-issue
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vanclimber
Feb 2, 2006, 4:43 AM
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Thanks climbinginchico and cal_gundert05. While I would certainly like to climb on the rope more, my partners lack of enthusiasm usually means we boulder. I live near trad climbers heaven (squamish) right now and we barely do anything but boulder (maybe because its boulderer's heaven too). I got the issue of R&I and it does contain some great details. Perhaps somewhere on the west side of the lake around Meeks Bay I could find a place.
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kalcario
Feb 2, 2006, 4:55 AM
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In reply to: Can anyone give me some good ideas as to what would be a good base location for a climber who mainly boulders but occasionally trad climbs? Looking at Truckee, but can someone give me pointers? Why not call yourself what you really are...a boulderer who occasionally climbs? Anyway, there's good bouldering and climbing all over the Basin. If you want to climb more than boulder, then Truckee would be good. If you want to boulder more than climb, South Lake. But really there's a good mix of both either way, unless you want to climb hard, then the routes at Donner are your best bet.
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vanclimber
Feb 2, 2006, 1:45 PM
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Hey thanks for the info Kalcario. For some reason your first comment ruffled my feathers a bit but then I realized its probably true. Another thing I realized is that I personally am not patient enough to be the kind of climber who ties in all the time, even for sport routes. In all honesty though, I do love getting high off the ground and I wish I could find more who would like to try trad climbing. As far as Tahoe goes, looks like my girlfriend (who exclusively boulders) wants to move to Truckee, so she might have to get used to roped climbing!
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kalcario
Feb 2, 2006, 4:22 PM
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In reply to: As far as Tahoe goes, looks like my girlfriend (who exclusively boulders) wants to move to Truckee, so she might have to get used to roped climbing! It's tough nowadays to get females (or people with female dispositions) to ditch the foam pads and go climbing, but if you really "love to get high off the ground", just remember that the more you boulder the less you climb.
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jerrygarcia
Feb 2, 2006, 5:22 PM
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Id go south lake instead of truckee. Truckee is more expensive I hear.
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bluering
Feb 2, 2006, 5:34 PM
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Check out SuperTopo. Chris recently released a book on climbing/bouldering in the Tahoe area. Lake Tahoe Bouldering Select is the book. Lovers Leap is really nice for trad though. You should check it out also.
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bandidopeco
Feb 2, 2006, 6:12 PM
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Hi, I live in Squaw Valley, which is between Truckee and TC. You can't really go wrong with Truckee. Donner's right there, you have a few bouldering spots around Donner Lake, plus one in the middle of town. It's also close to Big Chief, a good sport area with some trad. As far as I know, Tahoe's best bouldering is in Bliss state park, which is fairly remote compared to other areas. You shouldn't worry too much though, you can't really go wrong either way.
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jerrygarcia
Feb 2, 2006, 6:21 PM
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In reply to: Hi, . As far as I know, Tahoe's best bouldering is in Bliss state park, which is fairly remote compared to other areas. Bliss is not very remote. Its right off 89.
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wyoclimber3
Feb 2, 2006, 6:23 PM
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truckee for sure. south lake may be cheaper, but it also sucks. not the climbing, the town. bouldering in truckee is killer. donner summit areas, saddle boulders, split rock, rainbow, plus tons of lesser known and developing areas within 5-15 minutes of town. excellent roped climbing at donner summit too. whatever you do, don't live on the west shore.
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sspssp
Feb 2, 2006, 6:57 PM
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Do you enjoy snow sports? If so, Tahoe offers a wealth of possibilities for climbing and skiing. If not, you might think about something that is: at a lower elevation, is cheaper, less overrun with tourist, and you don't have to shovel/drive in as much snow.
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vanclimber
Feb 3, 2006, 6:26 AM
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Yes we snowboard but it has kind of taken a backseat to climbing (sorry Kalcario I don't see the distinction you are making), but mainly due to the fact that our coast powder in Vancouver is really heavy and annoying to ride it, whereas the interior mountains have that nice fluffy champagne. We will definately be riding when we move down there. Wyoclimber3, whats the problem with the west shore? Isn't that where Bliss is?
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jerrygarcia
Feb 3, 2006, 6:44 AM
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wyoclimber3 - I resent that statement. vanclimber - You either live at the north end or the south end.
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wyoclimber3
Feb 4, 2006, 2:36 AM
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yes, bliss is on the west shore, but if you live on the west shore it is the only bouldering area worthwhile within at least a 30 minute drive. the west shore is a far drive from pretty much anything in general (although the backcountry skiing off the west shore is killer, and there is some excellent roped climbing in the emerald bay area), and you have to deal with slow gaper tourists in the summer. south lake and truckee, on the other hand have numerous places within 5-30 mins. i guess when it comes down to it, truckee and south lake just have easier access and more diverse climbing. west shore really isn't that bad though. and south lake isn't either, as long as you ignore the nevada side of it. and by the way, our snow is also very heavy, although we tend to get a lot of it. good luck choosing
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lextalion
Feb 7, 2006, 5:36 AM
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Vanclimber, Frankly from a logistical stand point I would prefer to live in Truckee. You have better access via Hwy 80 rather than Hwy 50 of South shore. Jobs will be probably more readily available via Reno & Sparks not including on the California side. I know several that commute from Truckee cross the state line to work daily. And you are not that far via Hwy 128 to south shore and the climbing over off Hwy 50. Just plan as already stated dealing with terrorist (tourist) on the windy road that drops in past emerald bay. Just my two cents worth. Lex
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vanclimber
Feb 8, 2006, 4:38 AM
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Thanks Lex. I'll be in Truckee this weekend checking it out. Hopefully we will be moving soon! Don
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weschrist
Feb 8, 2006, 4:54 AM
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In reply to: (sorry Kalcario I don't see the distinction you are making) here, allow me to translate: What Kalcario is trying to say is that he couldn't climb v1 if you held a gun to his head. His obvious lack of climbing ability leads him to dis anyone who can climb harder than him. Therefore, he hides behind the tough guy trad climber facade to make himself feel better about his puny existence. hope that helps
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