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oopps
Feb 12, 2006, 12:13 PM
Post #151 of 171
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Registered: Aug 2, 2005
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OK, as a relative newbie I don't have that many stories, but two that stuck in my mind;
My partner and I were climbing a crack trad at a predominately sport climbing area and wanted to get back the gear that we used as an anchor back. There was a sport route about two meters to the right, which a local climbing guide had set a top-rope on, so we decided to run up their rope to get our gear back and they were more than willing to let us. I climbed up and got the gear, then went up to their anchor. I only wish I had a camera to take a picture of that anchor - it was a rope that looked about 20 years old, tied to a dead branch with a non-locking biner on the other end, through which the rope I was on was running. To make it worse, the gate of the biner was over a ledge in the rock. And this was set by a "qualified" climbing guide. I down-climbed that - no way was I lowering off that anchor. Moral: Don't trust ropes set by other people, unless you can check the anchor.
Another time, as we were leaving the crag we walked passed a guy that had just topped out on a short route and was calling down to his belayer "Off belay". We looked at what he had climbed and saw the rope ran directly from his belayer to him; no bolts clipped, no anchor at the top, nothing. I don't know what his belayer was going to do if he fell, other than call the ambulance. I'm still not sure what he was doing up there. Any guesses?
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deltav
Feb 12, 2006, 2:52 PM
Post #152 of 171
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Registered: Sep 29, 2005
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A paid guide with a group of kids from a youth group, using an American Death Triangle for his anchor
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watertorocks
Feb 12, 2006, 4:49 PM
Post #153 of 171
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Registered: Aug 3, 2004
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I was up in North Conway, NH on vacation (non-climbing) with my wife (girlfriend at the time). Drove up to the top of Cathedral Ledge to see the view and had just made the comment on how sad it was that there needed to be signs posted warning about throwing objects off the cliff because of climbers below. One short instant later, the bottle of Moxie (soda) I was drinking slipped out of my hand and rolled down toward the edge. I could only chase it as far as the fence and had to watch helplessly as it went airborne off the cliff.
I instinctively almost yelled "rock" but then overanalyzed the situation and thought about yelling "bottle of soda!" No shit - that was my internal monologue. Before I could get any words out of my mouth I was being yelled at from a climbing party about 100 yards off to the side.
I'm such an idiot!!!!
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climbingaggie03
Feb 12, 2006, 5:45 PM
Post #154 of 171
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
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I was at josh getting ready to head up a climb with my girlfriend. We were both tired and debating on whether or not we should climb or head back to camp. There was another couple climbing near us, but they were around a bulge so we couldn't see them. The girl started leading the climb while we sat at the bottom, after she got off the ground we could see her. It was a typical bolted route at Josh and the first bolt was about 25 feet off the ledge which was a long ways off the deck. While she was this far off the ground and kinda struggling with the climb, she and her belayer decided to have a lengthy discussion about which biner to clip to the bolt, and which to the rope using terms like clip thing and floppy part. All the while she had nothing securing her to the wall. after about 5 mins of this I looked at my gf and said, "lets get out of here before we get stuck doing first aid." I'm a WFR, she's a WEMT and neither of us wanted to have to work that scene. I don't think she fell, but I'm still glad I wasn't around.
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deltav
Feb 13, 2006, 4:43 AM
Post #155 of 171
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In response to the prior post, let me pose this question to all. First of all, let me say I would agree, however, when does it become our responsibility as the more knowledgeable person to set the idiots straight? Sure noone wants to work a scene like that, but shouldn't we try to prevent it?
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426
Feb 13, 2006, 5:42 PM
Post #156 of 171
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[quote="jammer"]In reply to: Looking for hints??? :wink:
Where there's a will, eh? 8^) :troll:
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xjlx
Feb 13, 2006, 5:49 PM
Post #157 of 171
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Registered: Oct 24, 2005
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It is interesting to note that in the accounts told where someone did step up and try to help that they were met with bad attitudes. If someone makes a comment about your anchor would it really hurt to give it a second look?
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boney_guy
Feb 14, 2006, 9:25 AM
Post #158 of 171
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Registered: Dec 19, 2005
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A common thread in a lot of these seems to be one experienced/semi experienced climber and noob. I guess I was lucky to fall in with a group that took it seriously enough to spend the first morning down at the house boulder learning knots, top rope anchors, belays, trusting the rope on lowering and rappelling on less than vertical before we headed up to Sentinel buttress at Moore's in NC. Putting us noobs between experienced climbers let us learn with someone to double check on each end.
Later on that all came in handy. I've had to climb up, set anchors and lower larger guys that have ledged and twisted ankles, gotten over their heads and couldn't follow the next pitch, or just talked some through a crux.
The worst I've seen was while walking from the Amphitheater to Circus wall, came across a noob belaying a 5.5; head jam or easy hard. The leader was out of sight, the rope ran down to the belayer, then about 8 feet sideways to a figure 8 clipped to a tree, and back to the belayer.
His hands were paying out rope as if the device was on his harness, with his brake hand ready to lock off. We convinced him that a fall would jerk both ropes out of his hand and to move over to the figure 8. He had been moving over to get a view of the climber. He had never touched rope before and had gotten a basic belay lesson and left on his own.
It's bad enough to leave someone like that and hope they can tie in or hook in to a rappel on their own, but to trust ones own butt to someone who doesn't know what they're doing is doubly dumb.
In skydiving I've heard a reference to someone that shows a lack of safety concerns (re common sense): "A crater looking for a grid reference".
Stay safe,
Steve
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dotc
Feb 14, 2006, 1:50 PM
Post #159 of 171
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 50
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I've seen a few over the years and been responsible for one or two myself :oops:
1) Luskville, Quebec. I am leading a easy crack. The local climbing school is there teaching people how to set up top-ropes. A student of the school chucks his rope down on my head. I arrive at the top and offer him some unsolicited "advice" on etiquette! His anchor consists of one biner, clipped through a sling with no knot or sliding "X". I fix this too.
2) Whitehorse slabs. I am seconding a friend up standard route. Somewhere near the top I arrive at the anchor. My friend is solidly anchored into a tree, by her chalk bag strap....
3) Me, in Hayes falls NB. I am setting up a top rope on an ice climb. Axes are planted in the snow, behind me. I call "rope" and chuck the cord with all my might over the edge. On the back-swing, a coil of rope catches an ice axe and send it sailing over the edge, toward the crowd below. No one gets an lobotomy but I feel stupid!
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reg
Feb 14, 2006, 2:21 PM
Post #160 of 171
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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heard this one from my partner: happened to be on site when a tragedy was about to happen - guy using yellow nylon rope from hardware store was about to lower girl friend down 100' cliff face. he had her all wrapped up in rope and he was body belaying - no climbing gear on site. bud convinced knuckle-head not to do that.
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king_rat
Feb 14, 2006, 3:47 PM
Post #161 of 171
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
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I was Climbing in Spain last year, my partner had lead the 3rd pitch of a 5 pitch climb, she got to the belay which was a hanging belay on some really rusty old bolts. Having no choice she belayed on these bolts and I started to follow when I spotted two guys climbing a route parallel route, they where both leading the route one a few meters below the other. They then crossed across the wall and headed form where my partner was belaying me. They did not seem to worry much that there were now 4 people hanging on two rusted bolts. To my horror the two Spanish dudes then started to belay 2 people each climbing simultaneously. So if we had stayed put there would have been 8 people hanging on 2 bolts, we decided that it was crazy and abseiled off the route as quickly as possible.
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feanor007
Feb 14, 2006, 4:30 PM
Post #162 of 171
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Registered: Sep 7, 2004
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i was hiking in the red one day, and i saw these people actually trying to climb the overhanging stuff. i was like wtF, stick to the groud you morons, and anyways, every one knows it's unethical to climb overhanging rock
j/k, i actually did the stupidest thing i ever saw, i was so stoked about climbing my first to trad routes (west crack and west dihedral) last summer that i dropped the rope at the top of West Crack. i, for some reason, decided not to follow the routine i always follow and ended up watching my rope return to the belay ledge w/o me. Luckily, my partner, msamet, just saddled up and soled back to me, but was a valuable lesson how mistakes in climbing often put someone else at rist far more than one's self
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climbingaggie03
Feb 14, 2006, 4:36 PM
Post #163 of 171
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
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DELTAV, we might have been able to help them out, but they guy on the ground sounded like he knew what he was doing, and was trying to teach this girl to lead without teaching her what any of the gear was called, and without making sure she had a clear idea of how things worked before she left the ground. Also the climber sounded overloaded with one person yelling stuff up to her, so I don't think two strangers yelling up would have helped. Generally you are right though, If I can set someone straight I will, but with that situation I didn't think there was anything I could do except clear out.
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oldrnotboldr
Feb 14, 2006, 5:46 PM
Post #164 of 171
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Registered: May 23, 2005
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This wasn't at a climbing area, but the waterfront in Petoskey, Mi. There is a 40 ft. high cliff consisting of crumbling limestone. It is something like bricks stacked up with no mortar between them. Very unstable and crumbly. The deck is littered with all sizes of rock and junk. My wife and I were biking past and stopped for a little break by a small stream. A mom and her 8-10 yr old son were next to the wall when thekid begins to climb up this stuff- no gear at all, no TR, nothing; just free soloing. When I tell mom that's no a good idea and that it's unstable, mom says it's okay the boy is a climber and just smiles and watches the kid go up 6-8 feet. Watching the kid it's easy to note the hand and foot placements are not solid and not good climbing type hand/foot placements. I again point out the danger, but again just smiles and reassures the boy knows what he is doing. Now up about 10 feet the kid looks a little panicky and tries to down climb. I again warn mom and suggets they stop. Now mom gives me one of those really annoyed looks and again states (rather tersely) he is okay. I look at my wife and shake my head and say well I tried. Luckly the kid down climbs and starts looking for anotehr spot to start up. My wife and I decide now is a good time to leave. I did not read of any accidents in the news, so hopefully they left without injury.
A stupid mistake I made as a noob: tied in with a bowline, did not check it until 15 feet off the deck and relized the knot was not! On a small ledge I pulled on the knot and it came off my harness! Retied in very quick with a fig. 8. Learned the importance of double/triple checking everything!
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oldrnotboldr
Feb 14, 2006, 5:51 PM
Post #165 of 171
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Registered: May 23, 2005
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In reply to: The girl was halfway down when Euroford says "I can't take it anymore." While hanging from the anchor he turns himself around to piss down the backside of the spire. That was pretty funny until the girl shouts, "is it raining because I'm getting wet." The urine was splashing off the rock and onto this girl! It was hilarious. She actually took it rather well and wasn't the least bit upset. I'd be pretty angry if someone pissed on me.
This is absolutely classic! :lol: :lol:
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speedywon
Feb 14, 2006, 8:16 PM
Post #166 of 171
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Registered: Jan 5, 2005
Posts: 182
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Last summer some friends and I were climbing at Sam's Throne in Arkansas. They were wanting to get into Trad climbing so I was leading up some moderate routes and having them take turns cleaning the route. I had just finished bringing up my second on such a route when up strolled a group of rowdy rednecks. The leader had a cooler filled with beer in one hand and a boat anchor rope in the other. They were going rappelling, drunk, off a 1" nylon, nylon, frayed and mildew covered, marine line. They dumped their stuff five feet from me and their fearless leader greeted me with a belch that must have set off the seismometers at the US Geological Survey. Next, one of the members of his harem picks up a rock and chucks it off the top of the cliff. My buddy and I starting screaming "Rock", as the remaining climber in our group is still at the bottom of the cliff. In response to our screaming the leader of the group responds. "Relax, there's no one down there." He then wings his half full beer can off the top to prove his point.
We again scream "Rock", and then direct our friend to head for cover. Meanwhile, another guy in the group was tying the rope to a tree with an overhand knot (yes, an overhand knot on 1" diameter rope) and preparing to rap.
We threw all our stuff in my pack and ran, not walked, away. As we headed up the trail out of sight I turned just in time to see the leader of the village idiots heading over the edge, . . . rope grasped in one hand and a beer in the other.
As cruel as it may be, I still kind of hope he decked on the way down.
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wonderwoman
Feb 14, 2006, 9:21 PM
Post #167 of 171
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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Someone yelling up instructions to a climber who 'sort of remembered' how to clean an anchor. We had to send my husband up the climb to help her down. Luckily, she had somehow double tied herself in and was not going anywhere fast! :lol:
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mikej
Feb 14, 2006, 9:56 PM
Post #168 of 171
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Registered: Feb 7, 2006
Posts: 210
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Before i add one, i have to say how enjoyably twisted this thread is.
I was at red rocks in the gallery the weekend before thanksgiving with some friends trying to stay warm and climb. To the left of us a guy and a girl start setting up and he starts leading with her on belay. As he gets to the 2nd bolt, we all notice she's not really paying attention and when she does, she might take up a small handful of the 8 foot minimum of slack she's allowing in her line. I remember seeing him at the 3rd bolt and being pretty confident he would deck if he fell at this point. Not to mention she's standing right under him so his butt and her head would become one if something should go wrong. And since she wasn't looking up, she would only become aware of this union until it was too late. We watch in horror as this continues. I don't remember whether one of us said something or not, i just remember being in a haze of stupor. She was gorgeous, but all of us changed our mind quickly after seeing this. I'd hate to see her drive.
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raymondjeffrey
Feb 14, 2006, 11:01 PM
Post #169 of 171
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Registered: Mar 2, 2004
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Some dumbass brought his dog to the crag once. What made it worse is that the dog was a mutt; had no papers!!!
If you have a dog: make sure that it is a full-blooded pedigreed dog that stays at home.
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drector
Feb 15, 2006, 12:39 AM
Post #170 of 171
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I had my belayer hold me while lowering so I could move horizontally over to the top of a route about 10 feet from where I was so I could teach a guy how to thread the rope through his figure-8 before he rapped off. He was safe and secure but might have been there a while trying to figure it out.
I'm glad that it's the worst thing I've ever seen. Some of these stories are a bit scary.
Dave
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fishbelly
Feb 15, 2006, 2:09 AM
Post #171 of 171
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Registered: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 273
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White Rocks Pond Bank Pa
I bumped into a pair of teenage climbers top roping. The be layer was using a rappel ring as a belay device. I had only been climbing 12 years or so and had never seen a rap ring or even heard of using one as a belay device.
I asked him why he was not using the stitch plate or tuber or fig 8 ..All that was hanging on his harness. Instead of the rap ring. He said the rap ring worked fine. Obviously it had so far. I am not sure they were designed to be stressed in that direction though..
He was polite and complied with my paranoid wishes.
15 years later I still have not heard read or seen it repeated.
After a long cold day ice climbing we were sorting gear. My friend realized she only had two hands. Put a carrabiner that had been hanging on her pack all day in her mouth. I still remember her expression.
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