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dingus
Feb 14, 2006, 9:40 PM
Post #26 of 36
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Don't get on a multipitch route unless you believe you can lead ALL the pitches.
Take 100% responsibility for the safety of yourself and your partner. Expect the same from her. Make sure she understands that.
DMT
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j_ung
Feb 14, 2006, 9:58 PM
Post #27 of 36
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I recently added "bloody hell" to my lexicon and have found that it's really very fun to say. I do believe I'll pepper my speech with a few "buggers," too. Thanks, Magnus! It's fun to cuss in British.
:)
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kricir
Feb 14, 2006, 10:13 PM
Post #28 of 36
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bodyboarder said
In reply to: I thought that post was for me kricir..... but now you just go galavnting aroud town pressing ctrl c and then ctrl v like it doesn't even matter....BUT IT DOES matter... oh how i chrrished that post and now it's.....it's......tainted
HAHAH! I thought that would happen! oh well, I sorry, and by the way, It was for you, I copied it into this thread, not the other way around!
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slavetogravity
Feb 14, 2006, 11:47 PM
Post #29 of 36
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In reply to: -Take a rope hook, or coil the rope over your leg, or over a sling, very carefully when belaying. Badly coiled and poorly managed ropes are the quickest way to ruin your climb, I have learned this lesson the hard way, several times over. .
To elaberate on this, it's no joke that nothing will slow you down faster then poor rope management.
When stacking the rope over your legs be sure to stack it, in such a manner, that each subsequent coil is smaller than the last. This will ensure that the rope will be properly stacked and will pay out nicely while belaying.
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bodyboarder
Feb 15, 2006, 12:52 AM
Post #30 of 36
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In reply to: bodyboarder said In reply to: I thought that post was for me kricir..... but now you just go galavnting aroud town pressing ctrl c and then ctrl v like it doesn't even matter....BUT IT DOES matter... oh how i chrrished that post and now it's.....it's......tainted HAHAH! I thought that would happen! oh well, I sorry, and by the way, It was for you, I copied it into this thread, not the other way around!
well as long as it was originally for me....
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sungam
Feb 15, 2006, 9:25 PM
Post #31 of 36
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Damn, all this buildup for nothing. My partner's parents flipped when he even mentioned the word "multipitch" anywhere near the winter season.
:cry:
-Magnus
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dominic7
Feb 15, 2006, 9:49 PM
Post #32 of 36
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Ah bugger!
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kimgraves
Feb 16, 2006, 1:26 AM
Post #33 of 36
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Registered: Jan 13, 2003
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Hi,
Let me try to give your question a serious answer.
Be advise that you will "bugger up" your first trad climbs.
The reason is that the whole art of placing protection and creating the safety system is a completely different skill set than climbing the bloody rock. Just because you can back step/layback/dyno with the best of them and then do 12 one-arm pull ups doesn't mean you know shit about placing pro and creating the system. No one can do it the first time; or the second; or the third; or the forth.
So how do you keep from killing yourself?
The first rule is that there is NO climb that is to easy to start on.
If you're a 5.12 lead in the gym start on 5.2 (or whatever the fuck the Scottish equivalent is). Don't start on a 5.6 - that's too hard. Start on a 5.2. You should be able to walk up the climb with both hands tied behind your back. This is not about climbing, it's about learning trad.
Second rule: work up the grades. After you do a 5.2, do a 5.3. Don't skip to 5.12 or even a 5.6. The object is to learn what you need to learn without killing yourself.
Learning to place pro and be safe IS fun even at the low grades. It's very interesting with so many things to keep in mind. And then you have to actually climb the bloody thing.
Best, Kim
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letolives
Feb 16, 2006, 1:46 AM
Post #34 of 36
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Registered: Mar 29, 2004
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You guys are sick and this post is X rated and I love it. Keep it coming cuz i'm almost there too.
Bugger, fuck, shit, fuck shit bugger me YEA!
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grk10vq
Feb 16, 2006, 2:52 AM
Post #35 of 36
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Registered: Nov 7, 2004
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in matters such as two men 'buggering up' a multipitch. this advice is crucial:
In reply to: Make absolutely sure both you and your partner are either on belay, or clipped into the anchor at every instant. Don't ever undo one before getting on the other. And if your first try goes well, don't go thinking you've gotten it all figured out and get cocky, or I promise you, you will get schooled by the mountain gods, who don't like that sort of thing.
you may want a lubricant.
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sungam
Feb 16, 2006, 7:30 PM
Post #36 of 36
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Ah bugger indeed, and now my ice buddy is busy as well, thats two climbing trips in one week, both of which fell through.
this is gunna be a great mid term break...
:?
-Magnus
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