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phazed
Feb 16, 2006, 8:50 PM
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OK so i was heel hooking at the gym last night and the whole heel of my katana ripped off......bad news.
I've had two pairs of shoes in the past, Mad rock Phoenix's and another pair of katanas.
I really like the katanas but I wear them out too quickly. I really like the ribbed heels on the mad rock shoes.
So i need a new pair of shoes and this is what i';m looking for....
Velcro
Fits wide feet
Somewhat aggressive
I don't really want to go over $100
Anyone have any suggestions?
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unrooted
Feb 16, 2006, 8:54 PM
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evolv.
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sungam
Feb 16, 2006, 8:58 PM
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Mad rock hookers
Agressive (but not overly so, as the loco is), with a riged heel and toe, and very comfertable.
avalible in zip, velcro, and lace.
my friend has a pair, he loves them
-Magnus
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pumpkins
Feb 16, 2006, 8:59 PM
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hey man sorry to hear about ir katanas, id have to agree on their durablity, it sucks at best but overall they are great shoes, with that in mind, why dont u take a look at these -- http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/333
modeled off the kat., but like i use to be u have to give slippers a chance, size them right and u'll never have that heel slipping problem again
or better yet, just send'em to Y-bum, what i did, they do a great job plus fast turn around and a discount if ur a student or unemplyed--- almost the same thing these days==
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phazed
Feb 17, 2006, 2:49 AM
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In reply to: hey man sorry to hear about ir katanas, id have to agree on their durablity, it sucks at best but overall they are great shoes, with that in mind, why dont u take a look at these -- http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/333 modeled off the kat., but like i use to be u have to give slippers a chance, size them right and u'll never have that heel slipping problem again or better yet, just send'em to Y-bum, what i did, they do a great job plus fast turn around and a discount if ur a student or unemplyed--- almost the same thing these days==
The vipers look cool, but its that flap on the heel that keeps coming off for me. I dont trust that thing.
Those Evolv shoes look awesome though, anyone have any experience with them?
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ajaxjv
Feb 17, 2006, 3:47 AM
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I blew through two pairs of katanas really quickly before moving onto the evolv kaos and i love my kaos shoes. I think the kaos fits very similar to the kantana but may be a little more aggressive shoe. However if you like your kantanas and you didn't rip through the leather you can always get them resoled with the evolv rubber through Yosemite bum.
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screamer
Feb 17, 2006, 4:17 AM
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My Katana's lasted about average for any climbing shoe. The edge like mad, i could stand on anything.. They were a little loose in the heels, so hookin' wasn't the best.
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phazed
Feb 17, 2006, 4:18 AM
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would you say the kaos and katanas are fairly true to size?
I wear a 37.5 mens (5.5) in the katanas
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p0bray01
Feb 17, 2006, 4:31 AM
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I am not sure how hard you are climbing but...I really like my Miuras...I believe they are around 120...but I pull hard with em and they hold up to my 200 lb abuse! :lol:
Good luck man! Hope you get your wheels back under ya soon. 8^)
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ajaxjv
Feb 17, 2006, 4:55 AM
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In reply to: would you say the kaos and katanas are fairly true to size? I wear a 37.5 mens (5.5) in the katanas
the short answer is no. Evolv shoes are pre-downsized 2 sizes so i wear a 11.5 in street shoes and my evolvs are a size 11. Also la sportiva shoes are hand made so shoes can vary .5 a size either way compared to what is printed on the label. I would either get your street shoe size or if you want a pretty tight fit then downsize .5 a size.
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sweetspot572
Feb 17, 2006, 5:23 AM
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Considering that, i tend to size all of my LaSport shoes at least 2 sizes too small. With the evolv's I own a pair of bandits, and I went a piddly size too small and I feel that after the normal break in period; that might have been a tad too small (luckily i bought them at REI and can return them for something better that fits better).
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weschrist
Feb 17, 2006, 6:00 AM
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In reply to: OK so i was heel hooking at the gym last night and the whole heel of my katana ripped off......bad news.
I had the exact same thing happen, only the heel ripped off the first day I used them. Two days later we flew to France and they were the only shoes I had. It is amazing how shitty they are, considering I have had a fully functional pair of Miuras for 3 years now.
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mikej
Feb 17, 2006, 7:20 PM
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Ive got a pair of katanas that i dropped 3 sizes to get into, and recently got a pair of 5.10 escalantes. You cant find them in any store, or on 5.10's website, but they're awesome. They have a slightly stiffer upper than the katanas, and a ribbed bouldering sole (amazing for heel hooking) They're also lined with thin suede for comfort and have velcro straps. The best part... 65 bucks retail. The downside is you need to know your shoe size for special ordering and they have a seam in the back thats a bit uncomfortable (easy fix=cover with a piece of climbing tape). i went to dropping 2.5 sizes in these as to my 3 in katanas. So far, these are my fav shoes.
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caughtinside
Feb 17, 2006, 7:33 PM
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In reply to: would you say the kaos and katanas are fairly true to size? I wear a 37.5 mens (5.5) in the katanas
NO.
I own both Kaos and Katanas. I prefer the Katanas, because they fit my foot better. That said, I wear a 42 in the Katana, and a 44.5 in the Kaos. Also, the Katana is more comfortable (for me).
But, the Kaos does have much better construction. I'd try on a pair if you can, since they're really nice shoes. But I probably won't go back to them, since the 44.5 kaos is too tight to wear on anything over 1 pitch, and the 45 kaos is too loose. I need a 44.75...
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tyify
Feb 18, 2006, 9:20 AM
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tyify moved this thread from General to Gear Heads.
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joeho
Feb 18, 2006, 2:19 PM
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I suggest either the mad rock hookers or evolv Kaos.
Of course, it all comes down to if it fits your foot... If the shoe doesn't fit... try another one.
I have a pair of mad rock locos and evolv predators. After blowing through a bunch of other shoes (5.10 v10s, testerossas, mythos) it's a good thing to completely synthetic. Leave cows alone, they stretch =P.
If you really want to heel hook a lot, mad rock is well known for their "cheater heel". They have ridges on the heel. Heel hooking with my locos is insane.
Go synthetic, and velcro. Never again am i buying a lace-up (not that they suck, just cause i get blisters from tieing up so often and so tight) or leather (i'm not an activist, it's purely shoes... cows best form is a steak *jk).
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bachar
Feb 19, 2006, 6:05 PM
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Registered: Feb 19, 2006
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Not good! Try out the Acopa Chameleon (all leather velcro) or the new Acopa Spectre (lined lace-up). I think you'll be stoked bro! cheers jb
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