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bubba
Dec 24, 2002, 10:40 PM
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Can any Vancouverite climbers out there help me out?!
I'm looking for some Beta on the cliffs above Deep Cove in North Van. There are many routes there, and I've climbed a few...but I've never seen any literature on it.
Any help here would be great.
Thanks.
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flying_dutchman
Dec 24, 2002, 10:56 PM
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i have heard of climbs at lighthouse park/point whatever and the capilano canyon. They are mentioned in the squamish guidebook. Your not planning to climb outdoors anytime soon are you? Its raining in the city and snowing in squamish/whistler last i heard.
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tanner
Dec 25, 2002, 1:26 AM
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There is climbing in the Cove? And you have said you have climbed some. Give me some beta on the stuff you have tryed!!!
Thats would be sweet having so close
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bubba
Dec 25, 2002, 2:15 AM
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Yeah.
There are lots of routes from the looks of it. A few vicious slabs with few easy slabs thrown in here and there. Some short face climbs and some monster overhangs. And even some mulit-pitches. I would estimate that most of the grades are 5.10/11 or harder, but I can't be sure because I have no formal info on the area...just what I've seen(and suffered through).
To get to the area, go East on Seymour Parkway and turn left at the Mount Seymour Road that leads up to the ski hills, then turn right on Indian River Drive. Follow this for a short ways and turn left at Indian River Dr (or Rd. It's across from some mailboxes). Follow this for a long way as it winds through the forest until you reach an open spot where the power lines cross the road. Park there.
Hike across the road and downhill following the powerline dirt road. When you come to a tower that suspends the power lines across Indian Arm, you're there. Some routes are on the bluff to the right, and there are others if you hike furthur down the Baden Powell trail to another cliff lookout.
The other way to get there is to drive to Deep Cove and hike uphill for many minutes until you come to the bottom of the bluffs.
The only routes that I know of are sport routes...fully bolted. But don't go on my word alone...I've only been twice.
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newtocalgary
Dec 25, 2002, 3:07 AM
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those climbs have been there for a long time and are not in the guide because the locals there dont want crowds just like the ones at (forgive the spellin) cluquiman next to lighthouse park they have a few over hanging 12's
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bubba
Dec 25, 2002, 8:37 AM
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Oops...sorry to whoever was trying to keep this place a secret....
Still any info would be great, I swear I won't spread it around. I like the lack of crowds too.
Route names and grades is all I ask.
[ This Message was edited by: bubba on 2002-12-27 00:33 ]
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sunsation
Dec 30, 2002, 6:46 AM
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Yes there is climbing in the Cove and no I have never seen a formal mention of them in any guidebook. I don't think anyone really is trying to keep them a secret, they just don't get climbed much. They'd be a good project for someone up to some scrubbing. Also, if you rap down the climbs under the powerlines and head (facing the water) right you will meet up with the Baden Powell Trail, wicked ocean views and a few more crag style climbs. Again, a scrubbing project. Also, be careful if you hike down towards the water, someone's buried their dog down there and didn't dig deep enough...
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bubba
Jan 1, 2003, 9:56 PM
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Cluquiman?
Where near lighthouse is that?
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miked_44
Feb 19, 2006, 5:56 AM
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One block past the entrance to lighthouse if your heading West on Marine drive. Find somewhere to park and a short distance down the road you'll see the entrance to the park on the right.
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koolmoedee
Feb 19, 2006, 6:44 AM
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The crag in the Cove is called Senior Centre. Mostly 11s some 10s. There are som access issues however.
Check out:
http://www.squamishclimbing.com/Area-Seniors-Center.htm
D
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remi
Feb 24, 2006, 3:21 AM
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I know a few crags that may be off the beaten track..or on it but just neglected for a few years. Would anybody be interested in taking some of them on? They'd probably need bolts from what I can see but would be worth the effort...anybody know how to bolt stuff? Would be some good summer projects...
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f0ggy
Dec 20, 2009, 12:18 AM
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Does any one have an update on Capilano climbing? The best information I can find online is here from 2001.
http://www.squamishclimbing.com/...viewtopic.php?t=1888
Just spent an afternoon wandering around the park and still can't find it.
Following those directions is virtually impossible seeing as fish hatchery road does not exist on any map I can find. So I assume it is Capilano Park rd they speak of which leads me here (N49 20.934 W123 06.960)
This is the only place (aside from right next to the dam) I can find that could have bolts on it but I didn't see any from the top. Any info or even just a rough lat/long would help quite a bit.
Cheers, D. 
(This post was edited by f0ggy on Dec 20, 2009, 12:18 AM)
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kev.e
Jan 2, 2010, 9:07 PM
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Directions:
Sully's Hangout is located on the steep west side of Lynn Peak's long southern shoulder, within the boundaries of the Lower Seymour Conservation Reserve (a.k.a. the "Demonstration Forest"). Although access is available through the Lynn Headwaters Regional Park, the most reliable access point is the LSCR. From highway #1 northbound take exit 22a and follow Lillooet Road north past Capilano College all the way to the main LSCR parking lot.
Parking:
The main LSCR parking lot. An alternative (although not recommended) option is to use the Lynn Headwaters Regional Park parking area. The roads leading to both parking areas are gated. These gates are closed in the evening at times which are clearly posted. Plan your visit around it, and don’t be late—especially on the Headwaters side. Search and Rescue is notified if vehicles are still inside the gates after the gates are shut.
Approach:
Take the Lynn Headwaters Connector Trail north, passing the Rice Lake area, until you reach the Lynn Loop Trail turnoff on the right. Follow the Lynn Loop Trail steeply upwards. Just a few steps before you reach the junction with the Lynn Peak trail, look for a small cairn on the right. Step over and find a small track leading up the slope. Follow it and shortly the crag will loom above you...
Sun Shine / Shade:
Located on a heavily forested mountainside, Sully’s does not really receive any direct, open sunlight. It isn’t dreary, but it is shady and cool—a better place than most to climb on a sweltering sunny afternoon. Also, because it faces west, Sully’s benefits in the late afternoon and early evening from about as much sunlight as can be expected (compared to, say the Senior Centre). On the other hand, because it is sheltered, Sully’s can be very slow to dry out after a rain, especially in the spring and fall.
Type Of Climbing:
Sport climbing—all bolted—at a variety of grades. There are some excellent moderates, but the crag tends to feature difficult and bold sport routes that are very challenging for the average weekend warrior. Whatever the grade, the climbing is always interesting. In places, the rock is highly featured ("North Shore Cauliflower") and varies from slabby to overhanging with fractures, cracks, and even roofs thrown in for good measure.
Route Information:
Download the topo (see above) for full route information. Check out the crag highlights Wingman 5.11b, My One Muscle 5.11a, and Special K 5.11b/c.
Route Distribution:
<= 5.8 - 1
5.9 - 4
5.10 -5
5.11 - 10
5.12 - 2
5.13 - 0
5.14 - 0
Route Types:
Sport Routes
Access Issues:
Access is SENSITIVE. Climbing at Sully’s Hangout is not officially permitted by authorities as a recreational opportunity in the LSCR. However, at this time climbers will not be prevented by authorities from accessing the crag. Therefore, please use absolute discretion, follow the rules, climb safe, and help keep the climbing area open. Refer to the Climber’s Access Society Website for more information: http://www.access-society.ca/regions/lower-mainland/areas/sully-s-hangout-2 and please note the area is gated and your car will be locked in after the gate closure time!
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f0ggy
Jan 3, 2010, 1:09 AM
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Thanks for the info but that's for Lynn Valley climbing... I have known about Sully's for a while now. I'm speaking of the climbing in Capilano Canyon... Apparently there is a 4 - 5 pitch route named Capilano Classic somewhere...
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kev.e
Jan 3, 2010, 4:51 AM
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it wasn't specifically for you just some general info for whoever
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MetroVancouver
Jun 23, 2010, 1:57 PM
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Climbing in the area around Cleveland Dam is not allowed, police will arrest and/or ticket you as this is considered trespassing. There are some OK climbs further down the canyon.
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seebrown
Jul 29, 2010, 8:54 PM
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If you looking for some climbing around vancouver check out http://www.projectclimb.com quite a bit on there with a bunch of topo's to boot!
-C
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