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blitzkrieg_climber13
Feb 27, 2006, 1:35 AM
Post #26 of 39
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i would say that the evolv rubber is definitely not as sticky as the mad rubber. but then again the mad rubber is AMAZING. the evolv rubber lasts longer and performs just as well in the gym. but by far the choice for granite and sandstone (only rock ive climbed on in both shoes.) the mad rocks are the way to go. change is bad. dont let anyone tell you different. :wink:
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spceal_ed
Mar 1, 2006, 1:59 AM
Post #27 of 39
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Registered: Nov 30, 2005
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In reply to: In reply to: Mad Rocks are terrible shoes. They are like the wallmart climbing brand. In my opinion, you should avoid them at all costs. Your screen-name fits your advice perfectly. Curt You need to go back to your little book of insults and do some more studying. I was giving my opinion. After climbing with mad rocks, I believe they are an inferior product. I really don't care if you agree with me or not.
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gosharks
Mar 1, 2006, 2:46 AM
Post #28 of 39
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Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 268
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I love my MR Flashes, the rubber is very sticky and they fit me perfectly. They are my gym shoes (other than slab). I also have a pair of Kaos and Agro. The Kaos get used inside when there are tiny feet, and are my dedicated outside shoes. The Agros are for the overhung stuff. MR makes a great shoe for me, the rubber is incredibly sticky and I have no problems with the workmanship. However, as a beginner shoe, the entire MR line is a horrible choice due to the more sticky and less durable rubber.
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tenesmus
Mar 1, 2006, 4:12 AM
Post #29 of 39
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Registered: Jul 27, 2004
Posts: 263
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In reply to: The Evolv rubber, in my experience, is pretty slick once broken in and it's cold out First time I wore my last pair of bandits I tried a hard runnout slab crack and thought I'd made a mistake. But after falling a couple of times and scraping the surface of the rubber they seemed fine. But those aren't great slab shoes. I know they're all arounder's but they're best suited as fit tight for edging. Get a different model if you're doing thin cracks or slabs (no matter what folks say). Something that laces down closer to the toes. Evolv remains my primary shoes by a long shot. You gotta get the right one.
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curt
Mar 1, 2006, 4:34 AM
Post #30 of 39
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Mad Rocks are terrible shoes. They are like the wallmart climbing brand. In my opinion, you should avoid them at all costs. Your screen-name fits your advice perfectly. Curt You need to go back to your little book of insults and do some more studying. I was giving my opinion. After climbing with mad rocks, I believe they are an inferior product. I really don't care if you agree with me or not. Was that opinion based on comparing Mad Rock shoes against other brands while working on your latest 5.6 project? Curt
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climbtech_108
Mar 1, 2006, 4:40 PM
Post #31 of 39
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Registered: Nov 14, 2005
Posts: 28
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I'm not one to make a general statment about a entire company, but man I would not touch mad rock with a 10 foot pole. Our main climbing group consist of about 5 people 3 of wich have Mad Rock shoes and each of us has a differnt model I have the MUGENS, another has the FLASH and a third climber has the HOOKER. And that "mad rubber" compound is garbage my Mugens are starting the split at the toe after a month of indoor climbing and my buddies flash have a complete rip along the bottom of the shoe and the guy with the hookers have warn threw to the point you can see skin on the heal. None of these shoes are that old and all have been used 95% on indoor climbing. the other two people in our group have 5.10's and they just seem to be lasting and holding better.
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spceal_ed
Mar 1, 2006, 6:38 PM
Post #32 of 39
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Registered: Nov 30, 2005
Posts: 20
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Mad Rocks are terrible shoes. They are like the wallmart climbing brand. In my opinion, you should avoid them at all costs. Your screen-name fits your advice perfectly. Curt You need to go back to your little book of insults and do some more studying. I was giving my opinion. After climbing with mad rocks, I believe they are an inferior product. I really don't care if you agree with me or not. Was that opinion based on comparing Mad Rock shoes against other brands while working on your latest 5.6 project? Curt Touche
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speedywon
Mar 1, 2006, 6:48 PM
Post #33 of 39
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Registered: Jan 5, 2005
Posts: 182
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In reply to: FWIW: Anybody switched from Madrock to Evolv and liked the rubber? -Kate. Yes. Once I climbed in my Bandits once, I was sold. They edges better and were more comfortable. I found the difference in "stickyness" to be negligable, but the bandits are way more durable. I just recently added a pair of talons to my rucksack. Their performance is better than my bandits, but I can't wear them all day.
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caughtinside
Mar 1, 2006, 7:15 PM
Post #34 of 39
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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In reply to: I'm not one to make a general statment about a entire company, but man I would not touch mad rock with a 10 foot pole. Tremendous!
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mikej
Mar 1, 2006, 9:22 PM
Post #35 of 39
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Registered: Feb 7, 2006
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i haven't dared go for mad rocks yet, but i just had my katanas (which i love) resoled by yosemite bum, user of evolv rubber. Their craftsmanship was great, but the performance of the shoes dropped significantly. I would have been better off using the rounded sportiva edges than the new evolve rubber. I usually don't notice much difference on rhyolite like QC, or even sandstone, but in gym or on granite or other smooth rock they're terrible.
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mikej
Mar 1, 2006, 9:24 PM
Post #36 of 39
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Registered: Feb 7, 2006
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i haven't dared go for mad rocks yet, but i just had my katanas (which i love) resoled by yosemite bum, user of evolv rubber. Their craftsmanship was great, but the performance of the shoes dropped significantly. I would have been better off using the rounded sportiva edges than the new evolve rubber. I usually don't notice much difference on rhyolite like QC, or even sandstone, but in gym or on granite or other smooth rock they're terrible.
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hosh
Mar 1, 2006, 9:35 PM
Post #37 of 39
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
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In reply to: In reply to: First climb I did was a crack and they sucked. Did you expect them to not suck? No, I honestly expected them to be sub-par on that climb. But the climb was easy (5.7 or 8) and the shoes were new, I just wanted to try them out. I didn't expect great things from them on that climb... And yes, I should have worn different shoes. But what ever, I knew what to expect from those shoes and they delivered on that climb. But as I said, I then did another crack, and they performed excellently (Illusion Dweller, one foot in the crack, the other on the face with tiny edges.) Again, I support Evolve due to superior fit (subjective), excellent customer service (personal experience), and personal preference. hosh.
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musicman1586
Mar 1, 2006, 10:42 PM
Post #38 of 39
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Registered: Oct 26, 2005
Posts: 488
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In reply to: I'm not one to make a general statment about a entire company, but man I would not touch mad rock with a 10 foot pole. Our main climbing group consist of about 5 people 3 of wich have Mad Rock shoes and each of us has a differnt model I have the MUGENS, another has the FLASH and a third climber has the HOOKER. And that "mad rubber" compound is garbage my Mugens are starting the split at the toe after a month of indoor climbing and my buddies flash have a complete rip along the bottom of the shoe and the guy with the hookers have warn threw to the point you can see skin on the heal. None of these shoes are that old and all have been used 95% on indoor climbing. the other two people in our group have 5.10's and they just seem to be lasting and holding better. As to comment about Mad Rock's durability, as weird as it may sound I think the quality depends on the climber, that's what I've come to see from their shoes. I know alot of beginner climbers who have blown out their Flashes in no time. On the flip side though, several of the best climbers that I know wear Flashes to climb 5.13 and they've had their pair for over a year. What it seems to me is that the more experienced the climber (and therefore usually better footwork) the longer Madrock's rubber holds up for them. Anybody agree/disagree? To add a connection to the op, Mad Rock's rubber is very sticky, but at the expense of durability. Evolv's rubber is more durable, but because of that, less sticky then Mad Rock's so you will notice a difference, but it's not something that you can't learn to accommodate to. That's the trade off, if you want a shoe that holds up for longer then your Locos do, your just going to have to face that your going to have focus on foot pressure again for a lil while. Stickiness and durability have an inverse relationship, that's why shoe ads always talk about the "perfect balance" of their rubber.
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jakedatc
Mar 1, 2006, 10:47 PM
Post #39 of 39
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
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Mike J. give them a few sessions on real rock and you will see an improvement. Evolv rubber seems to have a bit of a coating or oxidizing on the surface.. just needs a little breaking in Hosh i'm glad you didnt expect much hehe (and was pretty sure you didn't) i hope Speedywon didnt expect to wear talons all day either I wear shoes for a specific purpose.. i have testarossas for overhangs and heel hooking.. miuras for edging and slab.. i'm all about combinging the 2 on certain routes to fit specific key moves. oh and my beater 6 year old Spires for the gym (it's amazing how much you have to pay attention to footwork and strong finger work when your shoes are too stretched out. makes for a good work out)
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