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ddarko34
Feb 27, 2006, 2:33 AM
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Registered: Mar 21, 2005
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anything you guys SPECIFICALLY do (e.g.: an actual 7-day regimen) to increase your technique/endurance/power endurance?? i'm trying a few things here and there, but still seem to be at a plateau. could be training wrong i think.
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nola_angie
Feb 27, 2006, 2:48 AM
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ummm....you mean like take time off between work outs to give your muscles time to repair and grow???
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elepita
Feb 27, 2006, 3:09 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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Well, I train twice a week in a bouldering gym and then I climb outside almost every weelkend. Si I cannot give you a 7 day trainning schedule in a gym, but I will tell you what I do.
One day a week I usually train endurance, so I start with a 15 minutes warm up, I traverse just using any holds I want, I keep it easy and make it a little more difficult towards the last 5 minutes, but never so difficult that I pump out, I just want to warm up. Then I rest for 5 min or so, and I make up a traverse of like 40/50 moves, a challenging one, not a ver easy one, but not as difficult that I am not being able to do the moves. So I do the traverse 5 times with 5 minutes rest in between. By the last time I cannot do the traverse without falling. After that I do strengthening exercises, so I have this circuit that I repeat twice. So first I go to the hangboard and do 10 chin-ups, then I do 15 push-ups, 30 triceps (using two benches, and putting my feet on one of them and my hands on the other one), 50 upper abs and 30 lower abs, and then I hang from a sloper til I fall on the mat. And I repeat all this again. You should feel tired after all this, at least I do.
Second day at the gym I am currently training hangboard, so I start with my 15 minutes warm up traversing, then I do twice the traverse I was working on the day before, then I take a 10 min rest or so and I do a hangboard trainning, so I pick up 6 holds and do 5 reps on each hold for 10 sec, resting 5 secs between holds. I repeat the whole thing for 6 times and rest 2 min between sets. I only hold, I donīt do anything fancy bc I am a beginner in hangboarding.
In the weekends I climb outside, I do both trad and sport (and ice when we are lucky to have it here in Spain). Very often I will encounter a sport route which has moves that are hard for me, so I try to build them in the gym the week after and practice them for a little.
I have to gotten yet to my power endurance stage, but when I do I will do a lot of boulder problems I guess. I will tell you more when I get there.
After moving to spain from the states and having only a bouldering gym to train at, I made to myself (and I think to this forum as well) the same question as you are posting. Trainning in a bouldering gym has a lot of posibilities, just use your imagination, see what others around you do, and I am sure you will be able to make the best out of it.
Have fun! donīt forget...Elena
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ddarko34
Mar 3, 2006, 5:10 AM
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Registered: Mar 21, 2005
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hey thanks for the tips. i was doing something similar to that. do you have a long term (3 - 6 mo.) training schedule? how hard you climb about?
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elepita
Mar 6, 2006, 11:56 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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Well, I try to plan trainning for like 3/4 months. As for how hard I climb, I climb 5.fun rated G (for great) :P Enjoy! Elena
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