Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
resting before a comp
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


bahandi


Mar 8, 2006, 4:34 AM
Post #1 of 8 (1509 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2006
Posts: 56

resting before a comp
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

just wondering if taking a week or so off of climbing before a competition might benefit me more than training till the day of.

i've got a few months (or so) before i enter my first comp and i plan to train as hard as i can for it, even if it means taking a break from the wall.


johnathon78


Mar 8, 2006, 5:29 AM
Post #2 of 8 (1509 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 30, 2004
Posts: 340

Re: resting before a comp [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would'nt give it a whole week. Take like 2 or 3 days rest before the comp. Thats always plenty enough time for me n e way.


rock_junkie


Mar 8, 2006, 5:34 AM
Post #3 of 8 (1509 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2004
Posts: 172

Re: resting before a comp [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I usually take at least 4 days before hand and it seems to work out quite wel. My normal training schedule is 4 times a week and I rarely take time off. Dont do anything more than a week. Chances are that your not going to improve or loose strength within a week.


Partner robdotcalm


Mar 8, 2006, 5:53 AM
Post #4 of 8 (1509 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027

Re: resting before a comp [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In many sports the concept is "taper" and not just rest. Say 2 weeks before the competition, you work at a medium level and then in the week before a couple of easy days prior to the competition. This lesser level of activity is supposed to give the body time to recuperate but enough stimulus and rest to keep the gains coming.

Cheers,

Rob.calm
_______________________________________________________
'Tis better to have trad and failed then not to have trad at all.


jh_angel


Mar 8, 2006, 6:20 AM
Post #5 of 8 (1509 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 12, 2004
Posts: 232

Re: resting before a comp [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm with robdotcalm, just do some fun easy climbing the week before to keep the flow going. I always take just the day before off for the muscles to fully heal up and it does wonders. Good luck at the comp, I find I climb better at them if I go in trying to have fun and not get locked into the idea that it's competitive. But that's just my two cents.

-Josh


fluxus


Mar 8, 2006, 5:35 PM
Post #6 of 8 (1509 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2003
Posts: 947

Re: resting before a comp [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If I had a comp coming up I would do my last hard workout 4 days before the comp, and in the remaining days do 1 easy / active rest workout
that simulated the structure of the comp but at a very low level of intensity.


namoclimber


Mar 9, 2006, 10:20 PM
Post #7 of 8 (1509 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 18, 2005
Posts: 118

Re: resting before a comp [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think its highly dependent on the individual. My last comp was a bouldering one and i climbed fairly hard routes right up to the day before. I took one day off, mainly due to the fact that i had to travel to get there and climbed really good the next day. IMO I think the routes helped my stamina out enough to hold on for longer on harder problems.
For me rest days are not as important as a good sleep the night before and good nutrition the morning of, mind you i have very good recovery time.
Like i said i think its highly dependent on the individual, and its up to you to figure out what works for you.


bahandi


Mar 12, 2006, 4:24 AM
Post #8 of 8 (1509 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2006
Posts: 56

Re: resting before a comp [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

thanks for all the replies, guys. i'm going to be taking a lot of what's been said into consideration.


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook