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zazenchic
Mar 18, 2006, 1:18 PM
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So I've been climbing a year. Because of school I haven't really had a chance to really focus on the areas I want too. But finally I am! So tommorow I am going outside to learn trad. A friend called me to go learn sport climbing today. I told her no because I can only go out one day a week to climb and that I was going to be taught trad on sunday so I wanted to do that instead.
And she said in a very are you a f'n dumb ass voice " Your going to learn trad before sport?!?!"
and I said "Yes I am , you do realize that trad came before sport, so there are actual people out there who have placed there own gear before learning how to clip into a bolt"
her response in the most pissed off voice "whatever lisa...".
She seriously thought I was crazy to ever pathom the idea of doing trad first. Like it was an insane idea!
So....just thought I'd share this here, thought it might make some of you laugh! And wish me luck tommorow, pray that the weather is good! Because I am super psyched to go learn trad!! woohoo!!!
-lisa
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ridgeclimber
Mar 18, 2006, 1:24 PM
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I put in my own gear before I ever clipped a bolt.
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the_mitt
Mar 18, 2006, 1:44 PM
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(This post was edited by the_mitt on Nov 19, 2006, 6:29 PM)
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erclimb
Mar 18, 2006, 1:45 PM
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i definitely recommend learning trad first...there's just so much more involved in terms of safety, technique, etc...everything you learn will transfer coherently to sport...of course, i do recommed taking a class and spending 20 hours over a weekend fully immersed in the trad world...then you can supplement what you learn with a trustworthy friend
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clmbr_wex
Mar 18, 2006, 2:45 PM
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Lisa,
I learned to climb trad first. And actually i still do not know how to climb sport. Well, at least i never have, i do know the theory. Have a great day of climbing!
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euroford
Mar 18, 2006, 3:34 PM
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the only bolts i clipped for the first 4 years of my climbing experience were on anchors or runout slab climbs.
if you get a chance, try out some clean aid climbing. you'll learn about placing gear purdy quick thataway.
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devkrev
Mar 18, 2006, 10:27 PM
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yeah, I just started this whole climbing game, and I was leading trad before I had ever climbed sport. And I am kinda happy I did, I think it was easier than having to transition.
But what do I know
later
dev
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jakedatc
Mar 18, 2006, 11:10 PM
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Funny.. I'm the opposite.. i went from TR.. to sport.. to trad. and have not felt any ill effects. Sport and bouldering have made me stronger to allow for my lagging gear skills. I can find stances that i can stay at longer to fiddle with placements and have the confidence to run things out when i'm not finding anything.
either way it works out in the end. both are fun.. just depends on what is at the crag you're going to that day.
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the_mitt
Mar 18, 2006, 11:29 PM
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(This post was edited by the_mitt on Nov 19, 2006, 6:29 PM)
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rickoldskool
Mar 21, 2006, 7:35 AM
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Lisa, go for it.
As some have said, trad came first. Sport climbing was in its infancy when I started. The occasional bolt was a blessing. Hard to do even trad routes anymore with out bolts at the anchors. I think this breeds complacency and ignorance. So I suggest.....
Learn trad, but start by learning how to build anchors. Then progress to leading lots of routes within your ability. Trad climbing is about being resourceful as well. Know how to pass aknot on rappel, or lower your partner if injured. There is a lot to know to be competent and safe.
I think it great that you're doing trad first. I can't count the times that I have met some gym rat or sporty out on their first trad route thinking they know what they are doing, only to be put out because I pointed to some egregious error that they were making. Once you learn trad everything else follows. Be patient, get some good mentors and read a ton of stuff, do knots till you can tye in your sleep.
Nothing finer than hanging out on a wall in some remote place watching clouds roll by.....man I gotta go to the valley soon as it stops snowing :)
PS: I still carry my #10 hex on occasion, everybody needs a lucky piece...
Rick
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lofstromc
Mar 21, 2006, 11:55 AM
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Good luck on your first day out. But don't think you'll learn it all in one day. I've been climbing for years and still have stuff to learn.
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j_ung
Mar 21, 2006, 1:49 PM
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^^
Trophy!
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sevrdhed
Mar 21, 2006, 2:14 PM
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WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT?!!?!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!11 You're going to learn TRAD before SPORT?! Gasp! You'll diiiiiiiieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
Ahh, just kidding. Have a great time... trad is tons of fun!
Steve
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taino
Mar 21, 2006, 2:36 PM
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Have a great day out, but whatever you do - don't forget your ham sammiches.
You can't climb trad without ham sammiches.
T
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addiroids
Mar 21, 2006, 3:47 PM
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Then maybe you should learn how stack pins before placing heads. Gosh those southerners are so backwards. I thought sport climbing came first and then when all the faces had been grid-bolted into mere gymnastics events, that those with a little more hair, belly, and balls started to look towards that rock-which-we-dare-not-speak-its-name...
THE BROKEN ROCK
Yes, only then did climbers find out that you could climb with the back of your hand...and your elbow...and your shoulder blade...and top part of your shoe.
Congratulations LB! Maybe now you will get all of my jokes about sporto's. I can't wait to climb with ya out here.
I'm light.
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renohandjams
Mar 21, 2006, 4:03 PM
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One thing that sport does help a lot with is falling. I just started doing trad and I got hurt my second week because I took a big fall and it was my first time falling. I think with easy sport routes you can learn good falling stance, but that's just my opinion. I LOVE TRAD!
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sidepull
Mar 21, 2006, 4:27 PM
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While Lao Tzu isn't always right in saying, "you must crawl before you walk" in this case you have chosen to agree with him. I although I would change crawl to grovel and walk to climb. :lol:
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hammerhead
Mar 21, 2006, 4:33 PM
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The only thing I've found to be of interest in this thread is the picture of Lisa in her profile. My God that woman is drop-dead gorgeous.
If I were only twenty years younger.................
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reg
Mar 21, 2006, 4:51 PM
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#1 ya don't "learn" trad in ah day, so there's plenty of time to do all the types of climbing - go slow, learn to be safe - key is to learn all you can - whenever you can. enjoy climbing - enjoy your friends. it sounds to me like she wants you to be with her not so much the type of climbing. why don't you invite her to go with you for the trad lesson? if she doesn't - why not? doing one before the other is not really an issue or shouldn't be. something else going on?
when i say "learn to be safe" i mean learn so you are able to judge if your safe - not just someone sayin it's ok. right?
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laurajpetersen
Mar 21, 2006, 4:54 PM
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Go for it Lisa, there aren't enough women out there doing trad. Just make sure before you even get on the rock to really hone your gear placement skills.
For practice, you can even walk around your house and place gear in cracks, bookshelves, etc. (But, make sure you remember where you put it.)Once you know your gear, you can use those skills to climb trad, aid, and setup killer anchors. But, like I said before and others have said...practice, and think about taking a class.
Have the time of your life and don't let people stand in the way of what you really want to accomplish.
Happy Climbing!
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kricir
Mar 21, 2006, 5:01 PM
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Shoot, I was leading multi pitch trad, ice, and even some easy free solos before I ever clipped a bolt! Sport climbing feels like a climbing gym to me, only better. I recommend you get started with both as soon as possible. I would be a much better climber If I had started sport climbing earlier.
hammerhead said
In reply to: The only thing I've found to be of interest in this thread is the picture of Lisa in her profile. My God that woman is drop-dead gorgeous.
I second that, all in favor say 'I'
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epoch
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Mar 21, 2006, 5:01 PM
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Lisa you get a trophy from me for having the fortitude and determination to learn the sport through it's historical origins.
I placed gear long before I ever clipped a bolt, and the first bolt I clipped was on a mixed pro route.
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the_climber
Mar 21, 2006, 5:11 PM
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Good on ya for not being scard to go directly for trad!
One lots of good advice in the above reply's. Remember it takes years to build up a bag of tricks for trad, but stick with it. Initially try cleaning a few routes on second, place lots of gear from the ground, do a 'simulated lead', and start on climbs that are easy for you. It takes a lot more energy and concentration to figure out trad than it does for sport. This is one of the reasons a lot of people say trad is a more involved style of climbing.
Oh, you might want to remind you friend that not all bolts are as solid a you would think. I've pulled old bolts out and sheered old hangers (while at belays... when bounce testing them while backed up on bomber gear) :shock: . The thing with bolts is there is no real way of inspecting the quality of the placement. With trad a lot of times you can inspect the quality easily. There's no way of knowing if the individual who blaced a bolt knew what they were doing (unless you know the person and their skills).
That being said, I do feel good when I clip a 'good looking' bolt then fire on past. :wink:
Just my $0.02
B
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zazenchic
Mar 21, 2006, 6:11 PM
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thanks guys! I had a great time by the way! I'm super psyched to get into trad. I will do sport as well, but most of my climbing will be aimed towards trad. I'm excited to start learning and can't wait 'til I'm at a confident level with it.
And addiroids thank you too it means a lot to hear all that from ya! I as well can't wait to climb with you this summer!
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eastvillage
Mar 21, 2006, 6:26 PM
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Go Lisa!
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