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tallnik
Mar 18, 2006, 8:26 PM
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I have a question. I'm living in Vienna, Austria, this summer and have a friend who's coming over for a week of climbing. Right now we're looking at Arco or Val Di Mello in Italy, however we are curious to know what THE destinations are for climbing in Europe.
Specifically we are interested in Alpine sport climbing (up to 7a-b) or stellar moderate alpine/trad areas. Chamonix in france comes to mind of course, as well.
If you (and a partner) are interested in joining forces sometime between mid-June and mid-July, let us know.
Cheers,
Nik
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heiko
Mar 18, 2006, 10:21 PM
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If I get you right, probably multi-pitch sport routes are what you are looking for? (Sport and alpine are somehow mutually exclusive I'd say).
You've chosen two locations that probably couldn't be any more different. Val di Mello does not have a lot to do with sport climbing, even if some of the stuff is bolted, because a lot of the climbing there is plain slab (featureless, not like limestone slabs), or some crack routes, but not many. Anyway, scary runouts even on the bolted climbs. There are maybe 5 moderate trad routes in the valley, and you need a proper rack of gear to do them (cams and nuts). The rest is serious stuff.
Maybe Arco is the better choice in terms of routes, if you want to do hard multi-pitching. Arco is really fun let's say starting at 6b. There's LOADS of routes you could do.
BUT: In my opinion, both areas are way too hot in summer. You'll get roasted. A lot of sweat and no friction.
Might add the Dolomites, which have better temperatures... but that's definitely alpine, no bolts. Limestone trad is not everybody's taste ;)
Can't say a lot about Chamonix as I've never been there.
If you have any questions, feel free to pm me. Also if you're around, let me know. I'm by no means climbing 7a, but I get around a bit in the area ;)
Hope this helps,
H.
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tallnik
Mar 19, 2006, 3:24 AM
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Thanks for the reply Heiko.
In some areas Alpine sport does exist... Unless one doesn't consider 22+ pitches bolted up to summits alpine...
Good to know that Val di Mello is mostly super hard and there are so few mellow trad routes.
How many pitches is Arco?
Where would you go in June or July then? Big is better than small... However, there's something to be said to not having to bring my full rack (be it trad or alpine).
Cheers,
Nik
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overlord
Mar 20, 2006, 7:36 AM
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id say june for arco. july will be even hotter. chamonix has some sport AFAIK, and i think verdon shouldnt be too hot at the time.
you best destination would offcourse be paklenica, but it really does live up to its name in summer (meaning that its hot as hell).
theres also a some nice multipitch sort routes here. zadnjiki ozebnik is supposed to be really good and mrtvaki pajek at klemenča peč is a classic. osp the main multipitch sport spot in slovenia, but like paklenica, usually too hot to climb in summer.
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booger
Mar 20, 2006, 8:34 AM
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tallnik,
Chamonix, I'm sure, would be fantastic- there is plenty of moderate multi-pitch sport around the area, of course alpine, some trad (though I don't have any beta on that). However, that said, it would not be my first preference - a bit too touristy (can be unbelieveably crowded) and full of alpine ego. Either Presles or Grenoble (both within one hour of each other) would be pretty good, but you'd have to be sure to choose N or S face routes as weather would indeed be quite warm. Verdon is probably best, since you can get into that canyon and stay in the shade all day on a lot of routes, and your choices are unlimited. Just depends on what kind of atmosphere you prefer.
THOUGH....
If you will have a car, you can do Grenoble/Presles and Chamonix without losing much time very easily- Geneva is only about a 4 hour drive from Grenoble.
Paolo and I will be doing a climbing tour of the Alps for most of June (dates not yet confirmed), so keep in touch- maybe we'll see you! :wink:
Ciao ciao,
Taz
oh- I've got beta and guidebooks for Verdon and Presles if you need it.
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heiko
Mar 20, 2006, 8:41 AM
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In reply to: Thanks for the reply Heiko. In some areas Alpine sport does exist... Unless one doesn't consider 22+ pitches bolted up to summits alpine... Good to know that Val di Mello is mostly super hard and there are so few mellow trad routes. How many pitches is Arco? Where would you go in June or July then? Big is better than small... However, there's something to be said to not having to bring my full rack (be it trad or alpine). Cheers, Nik
Yeah, I was just thinking about that yesterday, but RC.com was offline so I couldn't post... :evil: In the north of Austria there's the Wetterstein area, very close to the German border, mainly south of the Zugspitze. There are a number of bolted climbs that go up many pitches to the peaks of the surrounding mountains. I think that's what you meant, and it's definitely a beautiful place and June/July should be perfect.
Arco has routes up to ~40 pitches (1000m), but these are exceptions, some of them are aid routes. You see, north of the town of Arco there's the Sarca Valley, which has a lot of bolted and trad multi-pitch. But again, last year in June we had 35C, and a lot of the stuff is south- or south-east exposed...
And VDM - if you're a good friction climber, this is your place!
Where would I go in July? It depends on the season... last summer was so hot it was just no fun in the valley anymore.... I'd head up to the Dolomites, for sure. But again, that's limestone trad, so bring your hammer and some pitons ;)
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paolo75
Mar 20, 2006, 4:17 PM
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In reply to: Paolo and I will be doing a climbing tour of the Alps for most of June (dates not yet confirmed), so keep in touch- maybe we'll see you! :wink: Ciao ciao, Taz
July, baby, July. :roll:
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tallnik
Mar 20, 2006, 4:44 PM
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Right on,
Thanks for the replies everyone, you've all got me thinking and dreaming.
Cheers,
Nik
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charlet_poser
Mar 20, 2006, 4:45 PM
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The Grenoble area definately has a lot to offer. The Vercors has lots of alpine sport climbing and Presles should definately go firaly high on your list. Multi-pitch sport from 4-9 pitches (depending on which part of the cliff you're on). Routes up into the 8s.
As summer goes on though, it does get a bit warmer (S. facing), but Ceuse is great because of its higher elevation! Maybe check that out
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tallnik
Mar 23, 2006, 3:46 PM
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Taz and Paolo, where are you thinking about going this summer?
Share your secrets...
I just looked at the topos of wetterstein on bergsteigen.at, and most of that stuff looks hard, hard, hard...
6a is kindof what the preferred level is for multipitch...
Cheers,
Nik
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heiko
Mar 24, 2006, 8:54 AM
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Nik, you should get a proper topo guide of the Wetterstein area, Bergsteigen.at is a little limited. Check here:
http://www.alpinrouten.de/...her/files/panico.htm
(The guide to Wetterstein South was written by Heinz Zak).
Also the Rofan area (halfway between Rosenheim and Innsbruck) might be of your interest.
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uasunflower
Mar 24, 2006, 10:11 AM
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hey, if you are looking for less crowded places with sport/trad options, les Ecrins can be a good choice for more of an alpine experience. Some friends told me of a nice bolted 6a route up Meije just behind the refuge, and check this out for inspiration.
Another good place to be is Bernese Oberland - plenty of options on places such as Kingspitze - a 6a and a 6c on that wall with more than 15 pitches of awesome climbing, or bigger mountains with more choss and ego - i.e. Eiger or Wetterhorn. Lots around Kandersteg and all other villages around the massif. Good refuges all over the place and Jungfraubahn gets you to 3,500m in no time (and with lots of $$).
Around the corner there is Gothard valley, with lots of climbing too, i.e. we went on a w-end expedition last year to Bergsee - a couple of interesting routes there, trad and bolted (5 pitch 6b Pretty Ballerina to recommend - rather easy 6b rating compared to what you get at the crags - but then you get the mountains, glaciers etc. in supplement).
Dolomites are def. great although more trad. It's not as bad as heiko suggests - i.e. i did Spigolo Gallo in Tre Cime last year, 5c/6a, very beautiful and well protected with cams, nuts and pitons.
I won't even start mentioning options in Cham' - it's crowded in the village, true, but as soon as you get to some nice refuge (not les Cosmiques) during the week and don't get on the easy classics, you can enjoy the mountains there as well. Lots of awesome routes i.e. by Piola, a great french FAist of the 90ies - some bolted, some not. You can stay a lifetime in that place anyway...
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heiko
Mar 24, 2006, 1:37 PM
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In reply to: Dolomites are def. great although more trad. It's not as bad as heiko suggests - i.e. i did Spigolo Gallo in Tre Cime last year, 5c/6a, very beautiful and well protected with cams, nuts and pitons.
Hey, I'd NEVER say anything bad about the Dolomites! ;) It's just not the type of bolted multi-pitch alpine that you could get in other places.
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ninja_climber
Mar 24, 2006, 2:29 PM
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If your into multi-pitch sport climbs go with Paklenica in Croatia.
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tallnik
Mar 25, 2006, 5:59 PM
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Yeah... I'm definately going to be picking up some proper topos once I arrive in Europe. Too expensive on this end..
Some of those options are looking wicked. Another one I recently have been thinking about is the Zillertal area in the alps.
Cheers,
Nik
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heiko
Mar 26, 2006, 1:22 PM
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Well the good thing is that Wetterstein, Zillertal, the Dolomites and the Sarca Valley (near Arco) all lie within a few hours. So if one place isn't of your liking, you'll be able to get to the next one in no time.
Guess the same is true for all the stuff around Chamonix, if you prefer granite.
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overlord
Mar 27, 2006, 12:55 PM
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btw nik, when are you planning this trip??
if i dont have exams and can get someone to tag along id really like to join you. if you dont mind offcourse :wink:
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tallnik
Mar 28, 2006, 2:50 AM
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RASTO!
I'd love if you wanted to join us... My friend is still waiting on a possible job offer, so the numbers will depend on that. I'm looking to just climb big, moderate stuff, either trad if we have a good area picked out before hand, but I would prefer to leave the BFR (Big Fukkin Rack) at home... Time wise I was thinking anytime from early June to mid-July... when are you done exams?
Cheers,
Nik
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overlord
Mar 28, 2006, 1:02 PM
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the exam period ends on 7th july, but i hope that ill be done before that. and since i already did almost half the exams this year, i might have some time inbetween. il let you know when i have some fixed dates.
i already asked a friend, hes in if he has the time. and i wont climb with a BFR because i dont have one and neither does he.
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tallnik
Mar 28, 2006, 8:35 PM
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I received a cool PM from an Austria who recommended Chillertal, which I haven't checked out yet, but thought I would throw that name out there to see what feedback I get.
Rasto, you heard of this place?
Cheers,
Nik
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heiko
Mar 28, 2006, 9:11 PM
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Dude, if he really wrote "Chillertal" he must have been kidding.
:lol: Although I like the pun: it's called "Zillertal", see our previous posts.
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overlord
Mar 28, 2006, 9:54 PM
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i definitely heard of zillertal, but never of chillertal. though it seems plausible that an english speaker would write it that way. kinda.
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alpine_chris
Mar 31, 2006, 4:25 PM
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plan to stay in zurich/switzerland pretty much at the beginning of your trip. one hand you will find plenty of climbing just around the corner (from a canadian point of view, say within a 2 hours driving time). and you will find the largest bookshop specialized in alpine literature such as topoguides. check out what they have: www.pizbube.ch
sit on their couch, enjoy a good cup of espresso (free!), have a look of their 1000 topobooks or so and make your decision. the guy running this shop is a mountain guide and can give you plenty of beta too.
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tallnik
Apr 1, 2006, 8:40 PM
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That's a good idea, thanks for the tip. If I'm going to Switzerland, I'll have to start saving now... I wish I worked there, getting paid in Swiss Francs would be sweet.
Cheers,
Nik
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