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rmoxygen


Mar 24, 2006, 1:05 AM
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Wrist Problems
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A few years ago I broke my arm pretty badly, and in the process did some damage to the ligaments and tendons in my wrist. This doesn't usually bother my climbing except holding onto certain holds in certain orientations. Once in a while a grab a sloper or do a gastogne (sp?) and I get a lot of pain in my wrist.

Does this happen to anyone else? Would taping my wrist help at all? Thanks


yokese


Mar 24, 2006, 1:41 AM
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I got left wrist tendonitis some months ago, after several months of stupidly overtraining. It wasn't very painful except for some specific positions. I used to tape my wrist very tightly and it seemed to help silencing the pain. Recently I hired a friend of mine who is a physiotherapist and after just a couple of sessions and some exercises I have noticed a clear improvement. Actually, I'm not taping my wrist anymore (although I'm taking it easier on the "hard" holds). However, he told me that sometimes (not my case) some of the scaphoids get broken and they take a very long time to heal... hope it's not your case.
By the way, I think it's spelled "Gaston"...


btraxler


Mar 25, 2006, 4:33 PM
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I am having tendon problems also. Can you describe some of the exercises/ stretches your friend is giving you ?


tarasteen


Mar 26, 2006, 12:03 AM
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I developed carpel tunnel syndrome (ie really bad tendinitis) before I ever started climbing. My doctor has helped me work with it so I can keep it under control without needing surgery (I wore a brace forever) and was doing really well. Since I started climbing, however, it has started flaring up again. I end up taking an anti-inflammatory if it starts going numb or hurting at all. If I start feeling that shooting pain I'll wear my brace for a few days. Cold right after and heat later on helps too, at least for the tendinitis part. Hope it's nothing too bad.


rockrat_co


Mar 26, 2006, 1:26 AM
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I just posted a similar post on the same form, i believe my case to be slightly diferent, but it may be similar in some manners. I crashed on my mountainboard last year going about twenty-five MPH down a paved hill, ever since then, my wrist seems to pop in and out when i weight it... I dont know what to do...

-rockrat_co-


aimeerose


Mar 26, 2006, 1:35 AM
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And I just responded to that similar post- coincidence! My suggestion was to see a Certified Hand Therapist, which can be found at: http://www.htcc.org/locate/index.cfm

And, Carpal Tunnel Syndrome is not tendonitis. Carpal tunnel is inflammation of the median nerve, so it would be a neuritis. It has nothing to do with the tendons, thus the treatments are somewhat different.


yokese


Mar 28, 2006, 6:50 PM
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In reply to:
I am having tendon problems also. Can you describe some of the exercises/ stretches your friend is giving you ?

First, I strongly suggest you to visit a physiotherapist/hand doctor. What you think is a tendinitis may be not. Anyway, I'll share my experience: at the beginning my friend was surprised about the fact that my tendinitis was in one of the finger extensors. Although he is not an specialist in climbing injuries, he expected my tendinitis to be in one of the flexors since they are more stressed when climbing. He first located the inflammation (sometimes the most painful area is not where the inflammation is) and then gave me some (kinda painful) deep massage to remove the adherences and suggested exercises to softly stretch the wrists before climbing. So, before climbing and after warming up the wrists (rotations) I stretch them in three different ways: bending forwards, bending backwards and twisting. The most important factor seem to be to do the stretching very slow but firm and for at least 15 seconds. Shorter times are known to be counterproductive because they trigger a contraction response from the muscles to pull from the tendons. I've just found this website showing, with very weird names, the stretchings I'm doing.


Partner drrock


Mar 28, 2006, 7:26 PM
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In reply to:
Carpal tunnel is inflammation of the median nerve, so it would be a neuritis. It has nothing to do with the tendons, thus the treatments are somewhat different.

Well, partially correct. From UpToDate:

"Median nerve impingement may result from diseases that invade the carpal tunnel, swelling of tendon sheaths within the tunnel, stenosis of the tunnel by bone enlargement, or thickening and degeneration of the volar carpal ligament. Pain, paresthesias, and ultimately muscle wasting of the hand may result.



Nerve compression may also result from synovitis of the long flexor tendons due to overuse, fluid retention states, and systemic inflammation."



I developed a wicked case of CTS and I believe it was from tendonitis, since this preceeded it by weeks. When the tendonitis resolved, so did the CTS.

I agree with your suggestion to see a hand specialist.

Edited twice for clarity, man I need a nap or some coffee.


aimeerose


Mar 28, 2006, 8:40 PM
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I stand corrected, but it is true that carpal tunnel syndrome is not
In reply to:
really bad tendonitis
as the original poster claimed. It is important to differentiate between what is causing the nerve impingement and/or inflammation in regard to treatment choices. That is something a PT, especially CHT, should do on initial evaluation.

Also, that is a great website yokese. I love those names for the stretches. If I was still treating wrists, I think I would start using them, just for fun!


Partner drrock


Mar 28, 2006, 8:56 PM
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Gotcha. Right on. Well, hope the OP gets the help he needs.


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