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Bolting Overhangs
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michaelmay513


Aug 20, 2002, 4:45 PM
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Bolting Overhangs
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I've discoverd a new crag in my area and it is STEEP. I've bolted overhangs before, but nothing like this. The cliff is aprox 130 FT. tall and overhangs aprox 80 to 90 Ft in 130 Ft. If anybody has any info on how to tackle a project like this tell me please. Thank you Mike


roughster


Aug 20, 2002, 4:53 PM
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If you buy a set of RBs (Removable bolts) it will help you ALOT in bolting overhangs. Just drill 3/8" X 1" holes and use the RBs as dogging bolts to place the real protecion.

I am against full RB routes, but they REALLY help in bolting overhangs.


camhead


Aug 20, 2002, 4:58 PM
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I've never bolted, but I've a few friends that have, and that have gone about it in a couple of different ways. If any more expert bolters see any discrepancies in my explaining, feel free to talk trash.

1) At many overhung areas (I'm thinking like Wild Iris), you will see a bolt very low on the route, like maybe a foot off the ground. This is used as an anchor for the bottom of a static line while rap-bolting. It just keeps the rope well into the cliff.

2) One buddy of mine in Utah bolts very overhung cave routes on lead. Just the same as less steep routes, but more strenuous. He simply goes bolt to bolt in his aiders, and manages to still get bolts nearly five feet apart.

That's all I know. Good Luck.


Partner philbox
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Aug 20, 2002, 5:02 PM
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   Definitely agree with the removable bolts for work positioning so that you can place the real deal. I would also suggest getting yourself a couple of Yates or Pika adjustable daiseys and use these in conjunction with a couple of aid hooks. This will greatly facilitate you being able to keep yourself in close to where you want to work.

I do not recommend the Metolious adjustable daiseys for this sort of work as they are quite difficult to unload your weight off them when you are hanging in them with all your weight whereas the others I suggested are awesome for letting your weight off nice and smooth.

I`ve bolted a couple of overhangs using this method and it works very well. Obviously you`ll have holds for your hands so you`ll have no trouble getting a hook placement to stick. You may even find that you might not even need to drill the removable bolts as the hooks can do equally as good a job, that said the removables are invaluable on some jobs.

...Phil...


paintinhaler


Aug 20, 2002, 5:44 PM
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Aid the climb with hooks and other aid crap. Like the person that posted before me on this thing. Thats how I have saw people do it.


bouldertoad


Aug 20, 2002, 6:13 PM
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I am not trying to start a anti-bolt war or anything but is it possible to use natural protection? Have you found out who the land is owned by? Have you asked permission to bolt there cliff or if it is public land have you checked out all of the rules that go along with development of a crag? Are you planning a good trail system that will diminish the effects of erosion and people going to the crag?
I know it is awesome when you stumble onto a new crag and are dying to climb it but there are many things other than how should i bolt this? to think about.
One other concern is are you adequately trained to equip the cliff in a safe manner. If you are asking how to bolt something severely overhanging it leads me to believe(which I may be wrong about) that this may be your first time bolting a crag. Consult with other local climbers who have been around a while and get their opinion on bolting the crag. You may find out some good information regarding the ethics and possibly past development of the crag.

Sorry to be so long winded......


paintinhaler


Aug 20, 2002, 7:02 PM
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He knows how to bolt. It's the getting under the overhang close enough to drill. He is asking how is the best why to do that. Anyway, your other thoghts. People really need to think about trails, parking, camping, other things like you were saying. If that stuff isnt taking care of, the crag wont be much good. Just remember to think about everything before you do it. Bolt holes are permanent. But if you have to get rid of holes, you can fill them will some kind of cocking and use the dust that you drilled out and over the end of the hole with the rock dust. I think thats the best way to do that. :edit: I dont know how to spell. Or how to use english, but you get the idea of what im saying. So forget my english teacher.

[ This Message was edited by: paintinhaler on 2002-08-20 19:04 ]


billcoe_


Aug 20, 2002, 7:30 PM
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Pretty good suggestions above: aid it, use natural pro. Well, hmmm, whats left really? Lets brainstorm shall we?

hmmmm......ladders?........

hmmmm...........scaffolding?........


overhands 80 feet in 130 huh? man..........


hmmm..........Manlift?.............


hmmm............davit?...........


Hmmm.............crane.............


Hmmm..........gotta have bolts huh?


How about hiring it out to a couple of crews of hard working Mexicans?

Hmmm - rapping down while someone on the ground swings your rope probably won't work.

................hmmmm..............

Drill extensions?...........hmmm.............

What was that thing Sylvester Stallone had on Cliffhanger? He shoots it right across the vally and it sticks into the rock. Maybe we should contact Ron Kauk, didn't he stunt double for Sly? He'd know. I'd definatly get one of those.

Just brainstorming here.


therelic


Aug 21, 2002, 9:56 AM
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Sounds like you may have a rare crag. With that much overhang and being 130 feet high you probably have some good 5.13 routes maybe even 5.14. If the crag is large enough for several lines and you think you can get a quality 5.14+ out of it I think you should really do your homework before setting the first bolt. As was mentioned earlier find out who owns the land and make the crag legitimate. It would be a real bummer if you put up a 5.14d then found out you were getting booted off the crag.


fieldmouse


Aug 21, 2002, 6:19 PM
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on super steep new routes, Ive found that its way easier to bolt on lead. hooks aint just for aid climbers!


paintinhaler


Aug 21, 2002, 6:50 PM
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Are you sure this place isnt just in your mind. I mean gezze 130 foot, and no one knows about it. That would be a dream for me.


michaelmay513


Aug 21, 2002, 7:21 PM
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  yep overhangs 90 ft in 130 ft. it's atleast 200 ft wide also. are you jealous. just myself and 1 other guy knows about it. nobody around here bolts routes. anybody want info on this place? I might tell you where it's at if you want to put up some routes on it. there is also 2 other caves in the same area, close to the same size!!!!!
yippie I'm stoked

[ This Message was edited by: michaelmay513 on 2002-08-21 19:22 ]


billcoe_


Aug 21, 2002, 8:21 PM
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Well sounds like you're off to a flying start. Of course, the next steps are:

1) Bolt the living crap out of it.

2) Do all the routes you're capable of.

3)Invide a Sharma/Dave Graham type to try a few you are not able to do.

4) Publicise the hell out of their achivements, well, you won't have to worry about this one, they'll take care of this by themselves.

5) Do the guidebook so you can make what amounts to about $ .50 and hour for your hard work and become well known yourself (until someone else puts out the "topos" or "new" book).

6) Look for another place to climb cause nobody will care who you are tommorrow and your place will be:

A) Overrun with climbing trash including Euro-trash.
B) Trashed in general.
C) Closed due to the asshole infestation.
D) "Managed" by the government and they want money everytime you go there.

OR- AND LISTEN UP HERE....


E) A, B, C, AND D


Now have a nice day...

Oh, BTW: where did you say this place was????


have fun:

Bill


michaelmay513


Aug 24, 2002, 10:06 AM
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  this place is soooo steep you could bolt a ladder to it and it would still be 5.12


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