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epicsaga
Apr 16, 2006, 7:48 AM
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Anyone know what all of Kevin's (think that's his name) injuries were and his current condition?
He fell leading one of the ski tracks Saturday morning and scraped his face on the rock and hit his head on the ground. He was wearing a helmet and was conscious and talking when I and a bunch of others were helping him. He was bleeding quite a bit. I believe he was helicoptered out to a hospital.
Thanks to everyone who helped out.
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alpinismo_flujo
Apr 17, 2006, 4:06 PM
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We saw the helicopter fly in Sat morning...was wondering what happended.
Quick recovery to the fallen climber (Kevin?).
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epicsaga
Apr 17, 2006, 5:46 PM
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It was right ski track. If leading it, place cam/s above the bolt, wear a helmet, and do your best not to flip in a fall (keep the rope between your legs).
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epicsaga
Apr 19, 2006, 6:15 PM
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Apparently this was one of THREE accidents in hvcg that day, one fatal.
This was on supertopo:
"Kevin suffered a shattered cheekbone and a broken nose and as far as I could tell in talking with him,no NEW brain injuries, he should be fine.
He fell off a climb any of us could, given the over chalked greasy nature of the holds and as caked up as those pockets are I'm not sure a cam would hold anyhow. Many thanks to all who helped out. "
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murf
Apr 19, 2006, 7:25 PM
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In reply to: Apparently this was one of THREE accidents in hvcg that day, one fatal.
Even your *news* is epic... epicly wrong! On what route did the fatal accident occur on the 15th?
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josephgdawson
Apr 19, 2006, 7:36 PM
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There was a good deal of blood near the bottom of the wall on that climb. Good to hear he is ok.
I must disagree that he fell off the climb because the holds are greasy and a that cam probably would not have held in the greasy holds. I saw two dudes walk that same climb they day after the accident. People should be very solid at a grade before they take the sharp end of the rope at Jtree. I just read some of the thread on ST and someone said the dude did not look solid and he did not belong on the route. People need to realize that Jtree is not gym climbing and it is not their local sport climbing crag. The ratings are old school and placing pro at Jtree is tricky due to the nature of the rock. I climb two number grades below what I lead in the gym at Jtree and a couple of letter grades below what I climb in Yosemite.
At some point we are going to lose access to areas if idiots keep injuring themselves on climbs on which they do not belong. Something similar happened in the Big Horn Mating Grotto, and the girl involved did not get off so easily.
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climbsomething
Apr 19, 2006, 8:07 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Apparently this was one of THREE accidents in hvcg that day, one fatal. Even your *news* is epic... epicly wrong! On what route did the fatal accident occur on the 15th? |
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murf
Apr 19, 2006, 8:51 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Apparently this was one of THREE accidents in hvcg that day, one fatal. Even your *news* is epic... epicly wrong! On what route did the fatal accident occur on the 15th? Three accidents (one fatal) happened on January 15. You know, the Spiderline death. It was discussed pretty thoroughly here and on ST. Another day with 3 accidents/1 death in Hidden Valley CG would be news to me.
CS - Yes, I'm up to date on the Jan. 15th stuff. Oddly, for someone who was supposedly on site on Apr. 15th, epicsaga seems to be misinformed.
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murf
Apr 19, 2006, 8:52 PM
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In reply to: At some point we are going to lose access to areas if idiots keep injuring themselves on climbs on which they do not belong. Something similar happened in the Big Horn Mating Grotto, and the girl involved did not get off so easily.
Its funny, I'm always hoping they'll take away bike access when I see some fool riding a bike on the road...
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blv_2_achv
Apr 19, 2006, 8:53 PM
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My two friends and I saw the fall briefly and were the firsts one's to reach him. I must say it was unnerving at the onset considering the shape he was in. I was the one who held c-spine until the paramedics boarded him. He said he was switching hands out in a pocket when he fell away. I'm glad to hear that he's doing well now and didn't suffer any potentially life threatening injuries (i.e, brain/spinal cord injury). If anyone is friends w/ him, give him my best. Thanks
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old_duffer
Apr 23, 2006, 8:31 PM
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Thanks for your help, man! I'd doing fine. Even working out again. My cheekbone and eye socket are pretty broken up but will heal soon. My ribs, neck and back are sore but nothing broken.
Couple things I've learned:
I will always (even on local crags) wear a helmet after inspecting mine. I think without it; my future would have been quite different.
I'll back off climbs when I'm not "on" (I had climbed this before without any falls).
I'll back off climbs that those better than me back off of.
Most of all, my gratitude to you and the others there for helping out. I know I messed up the day for some people and I regret that. I really appreciate the climbing community for the kind of people that are attracted to it.
Best,
Kevin
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sixleggedinsect
Apr 23, 2006, 10:15 PM
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yikes! skin crawling..
a year ago, to within a week, i got f*d up on the same dang route.
glad it wasnt worse (for both of us!)
anthony
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collegekid
Apr 27, 2006, 6:58 AM
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Usually, when there is a dangerous intersection in a given city, where a large number of accidents occur, the city usually does something to make it safer.
Perhaps someone should put a well-placed bolt in to prevent accidents occuring on this same climb in the future? (assuming a particular portion of the climb is dangerous, even for an experienced climber).
Oh yeah, I forgot, local bolting ethics are far far more important than safety. A few deaths or near deaths is a small price to pay for keeping the sport pure.
I think this whole "ethics of bolting" nonsense is rediculous. Don't give me that "Jtree is not like other areas. It's only for REAL climbers, that are fine placing pro every 20 feet".
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slhappy
Apr 27, 2006, 7:10 AM
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Amen!!!
In reply to: There was a good deal of blood near the bottom of the wall on that climb. Good to hear he is ok. I must disagree that he fell off the climb because the holds are greasy and a that cam probably would not have held in the greasy holds. I saw two dudes walk that same climb they day after the accident. People should be very solid at a grade before they take the sharp end of the rope at Jtree. I just read some of the thread on ST and someone said the dude did not look solid and he did not belong on the route. People need to realize that Jtree is not gym climbing and it is not their local sport climbing crag. The ratings are old school and placing pro at Jtree is tricky due to the nature of the rock. I climb two number grades below what I lead in the gym at Jtree and a couple of letter grades below what I climb in Yosemite. At some point we are going to lose access to areas if idiots keep injuring themselves on climbs on which they do not belong. Something similar happened in the Big Horn Mating Grotto, and the girl involved did not get off so easily.
AMEN!!!
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slhappy
Apr 27, 2006, 7:17 AM
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BS...BS...BS...
In reply to: Usually, when there is a dangerous intersection in a given city, where a large number of accidents occur, the city usually does something to make it safer. Perhaps someone should put a well-placed bolt in to prevent accidents occuring on this same climb in the future? (assuming a particular portion of the climb is dangerous, even for an experienced climber). Oh yeah, I forgot, local bolting ethics are far far more important than safety. A few deaths or near deaths is a small price to pay for keeping the sport pure. I think this whole "ethics of bolting" nonsense is rediculous. Don't give me that "Jtree is not like other areas. It's only for REAL climbers, that are fine placing pro every 20 feet".
BS... dont think you're entitled to saftey climbing...a well placed bolt leads to two bolts... as the ability and savyness on the rock dwindells...
...dont drag climbing to your level...rise up to its'...
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phugganut
Apr 27, 2006, 7:32 AM
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In reply to: Usually, when there is a dangerous intersection in a given city, where a large number of accidents occur, the city usually does something to make it safer. Perhaps someone should put a well-placed bolt in to prevent accidents occuring on this same climb in the future? (assuming a particular portion of the climb is dangerous, even for an experienced climber). Oh yeah, I forgot, local bolting ethics are far far more important than safety. A few deaths or near deaths is a small price to pay for keeping the sport pure. I think this whole "ethics of bolting" nonsense is rediculous. Don't give me that "Jtree is not like other areas. It's only for REAL climbers, that are fine placing pro every 20 feet".
Actually there is a bolt there. There is also a place to put a cam higher up if you choose, though I've never done so. I personally felt as though the bolt protected it adequately.
I could be wrong, but I believe he fell while clipping the cam and b/c he was pulling rope to clip he fell further than usual.
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josephgdawson
Apr 27, 2006, 7:34 AM
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In reply to: Perhaps someone should put a well-placed bolt in to prevent accidents occuring on this same climb in the future? (assuming a particular portion of the climb is dangerous, even for an experienced climber). I think this whole "ethics of bolting" nonsense is rediculous. Don't give me that "Jtree is not like other areas. It's only for REAL climbers, that are fine placing pro every 20 feet".
I must disagree with you in regards to this climb. I took a look at the route because it looks fucking fun and it looks like there is natural pro shortly after the bolt - no more than 10 feet. That said, why should be there a bolt added? I suppose you could argue that the bolt should be moved higher and closer to the corner so the fall is smaller an there is less chance of getting flipped over by your rope. Is that what happens to people?
I think the issue is that it is close to the parking lot, it looks like a good line, and people get overexcited and decide to do it even though they are not solid at the grade.
I do agree with you regarding insane runouts on face routes with no natural pro. I hope that after some of the FAs grow old and croak, some of the classic routes that are unreasonably runout will have some bolts added.
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curt
Apr 27, 2006, 7:46 AM
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In reply to: Usually, when there is a dangerous intersection in a given city, where a large number of accidents occur, the city usually does something to make it safer. Perhaps someone should put a well-placed bolt in to prevent accidents occuring on this same climb in the future? (assuming a particular portion of the climb is dangerous, even for an experienced climber). Oh yeah, I forgot, local bolting ethics are far far more important than safety. A few deaths or near deaths is a small price to pay for keeping the sport pure. I think this whole "ethics of bolting" nonsense is rediculous. Don't give me that "Jtree is not like other areas. It's only for REAL climbers, that are fine placing pro every 20 feet".
Sounds like rock climbing might not be for you. Why don't you try backgammon, knitting or shuffle board as alternative hobbies? Pussy.
Curt
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azrockclimber
Apr 27, 2006, 11:01 AM
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In reply to: There was a good deal of blood near the bottom of the wall on that climb. Good to hear he is ok. I must disagree that he fell off the climb because the holds are greasy and a that cam probably would not have held in the greasy holds. I saw two dudes walk that same climb they day after the accident. People should be very solid at a grade before they take the sharp end of the rope at Jtree. I just read some of the thread on ST and someone said the dude did not look solid and he did not belong on the route. People need to realize that Jtree is not gym climbing and it is not their local sport climbing crag. The ratings are old school and placing pro at Jtree is tricky due to the nature of the rock. I climb two number grades below what I lead in the gym at Jtree and a couple of letter grades below what I climb in Yosemite. At some point we are going to lose access to areas if idiots keep injuring themselves on climbs on which they do not belong. Something similar happened in the Big Horn Mating Grotto, and the girl involved did not get off so easily. |
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azrockclimber
Apr 27, 2006, 11:09 AM
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In reply to: There was a good deal of blood near the bottom of the wall on that climb. Good to hear he is ok. I must disagree that he fell off the climb because the holds are greasy and a that cam probably would not have held in the greasy holds. I saw two dudes walk that same climb they day after the accident. People should be very solid at a grade before they take the sharp end of the rope at Jtree. I just read some of the thread on ST and someone said the dude did not look solid and he did not belong on the route. People need to realize that Jtree is not gym climbing and it is not their local sport climbing crag. The ratings are old school and placing pro at Jtree is tricky due to the nature of the rock. I climb two number grades below what I lead in the gym at Jtree and a couple of letter grades below what I climb in Yosemite. At some point we are going to lose access to areas if idiots keep injuring themselves on climbs on which they do not belong. Something similar happened in the Big Horn Mating Grotto, and the girl involved did not get off so easily.
BLAH BLAH BLAH...
Whatever, we all know this and the fact that you are saying that you climb two grades lower than you lead in the gym is a big clue in to what you know. example...."placing pro is tricky"...hahaha umm.. rarely is it more straight forward bro.
JTree is very solid but by no means does it have the Crazy grades that you are referring to. And you must not have been on some of the "old school" climbs in Yosemite yet....
People get hurt climbing, period. And the more poeple that go to a place the more that will get hurt. Its just the way the numbers work. Jtree get s a ton of visitors.
Just becaue the unfortunate climber " didn't look solid when two DUDES walked by" doesn't mean that he didn't belong on the climb. And because he got hurt certainly doesn't mean he didn't belong there.
And guess what....I have been on many climbs that I didn't really belong on...thats how people improve. I enjoy doing that sometimes...I have been hurt. (fortunately not badly, yet) but don't go around chastising people for pushing their limit in the event that they get hurt and then reference your gym climbing experience...it sounds ridiculous.
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el_jerko
Apr 27, 2006, 5:04 PM
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I am not a 'bold' climber by any means and yet have somehow managed to find enough well protect routes at J-Tree to keep me occupied. I don't think anyone should get excited about adding protection to run out routes until everyone has gotten tired of repeating all the other routes.
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epicsaga
May 2, 2006, 5:02 PM
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Curt/Baldy, after you get your hair transplant why don't you throw out your rope and strictly solo, pussy? If youre so bold why need a rope at all?
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murf
May 2, 2006, 5:20 PM
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In reply to: Curt/Baldy, after you get your hair transplant why don't you throw out your rope and strictly solo, sissy? If youre so bold why need a rope at all?
Put up or shut up James, your shite talk doesn't hold water. You want to bark like a big dog, do it with some style. Challenge Curt to a day of bouldering followed by a Scotch tasting, if you've got the sack for it. I've already thrown my challenge, the response to which I haven't heard a murmur.
Oh, that's right, bitches like you aren't allowed off the road at JT.
TM
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