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musicman1586
Apr 19, 2006, 8:53 PM
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So I've been watching some climbing videos lately, in particular right now Autoroute where I've noticed this alot, but in this video when the climbers need a longer draw for overhangs/lips/whatever, instead of having some biners and a long sling, they have a short quickdraw with another biner and draw attached (3 biners and two sewn draws). I've never seen that done around here, nor have I ever really heard anyone say anything about doing it that way, but how safe is that system? I would think that in the wrong situations having a biner in between two draws might lead to the biner being loaded on the wrong axis. Now granted in the video they have those Petzl String things, think that's what they call them, to hold the biner in place, but nevertheless, opinions about this?
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vegastradguy
Apr 19, 2006, 9:11 PM
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its fine. the petzl strings keep the carabiner from crossloading...and, its easier to clip than a 24" sling with a carabiner just hanging on it....
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musicman1586
Apr 19, 2006, 9:22 PM
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*nods* I was pretty much in the middle about it, because on one point it adds another link that can cause a failure, but at the same time, a biner on a long sling isn't held in place either so it can be crossloaded as well.
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tradmule
Apr 19, 2006, 11:11 PM
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When I run short of long slings on a lead I often use this method. Just make sure the beaners are not going to lay across a rock formation if they get loaded up.
Mule
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caughtinside
Apr 19, 2006, 11:20 PM
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In reply to: opinions about this?
It's done for a couple reasons, to reduce rope drag and/or facilitate an easier clipping position.
Regarding saftey, it is another link in the chain, but since you'd likely only do this on an overhang, and at least one side of the biner is fixed tight to the top sling, crossloading is unlikely. Gravity will do the rest to keep the biner properly aligned. Minimal additional risk, and easier to clip than a biner bouncing around on an open sling.
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climbingaggie03
Apr 20, 2006, 12:20 AM
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I'm in favor of it, although Usually when I use it, it's to extend an anchor at the top of a sport route that I forgot to bring slings for the top
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