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one900johnnyk
Apr 24, 2006, 12:19 AM
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i'm going to start grad school there this fall and have a few specific questions about the climbing scene.
1) is there a good local shop that i should be aware of? i know there's an rei but if it's anything like the one here.....
2) is skinners butte good clmbing? if not, what's the best and closest thing to eugene (unfortunately i don't think i'll have a ton of time in the first year. and yes, i know smith is not to far...)
3) how many decent areas are there within two hour drive? only talking about roped climbing - sport or trad - doesn't matter.
4) what's the ethic like there. seems to be a lot of sport areas and shameless bolting as i skim the routes db..
5) ANYTHING else you think i should know would be a huge help and greatly appreciated. i've never really been to the west coast before and near as i can tell, eugene looks pretty much like paradise....
Thanks!
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crimpstrength
Apr 24, 2006, 1:39 AM
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When I was looking at U Oregon, I made a trip to Smith, just to make sure it is do - able. It is most certainly in range from Eugene. Redpoint Climber Supply in Terrebone is a kick ass shop. Smith is NOT to be missed. I have met so many great people. The climbing is phenominal. The U has a pretty sick wall too. One of my days in Oregon last July - fly into Portland, Mt Hood and Huckelberry's for a shake, to Redpoint, to Smith, to Eugene by way of the seasonal highway that goes through Sisters and those unbelievable lava fields for dinner at a small restaraunt (forget name - Lawrence something??) at night. I love Oregon, I will live there ..... someday.....
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davidji
Apr 24, 2006, 1:56 AM
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If you like climbing basalt columns, Skinner's Butte is fine.
The Caves outside of town is on private land with limited access. If you get permission or I think go with someone who has permission you can climb there. I did the latter. Crumbly volcanic rock, but parts are overhung enough that apparently you can climb when it's raining.
As far as REIs, they all differ.
There are 2 climb shops by Smith Rock. Redpoint in Terrebonne, and IIRC the other is in the ice cream shop at Smith itself.
Crimpstrength is right. You probably won't save time by taking 242 over the mackenzie pass to eastern oregon, but you gotta go that way sometime when it's open.
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bobruef
Apr 24, 2006, 2:03 AM
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In reply to: fly into Portland, Mt Hood and Huckelberry's for a shake,
Those are EXCELLENT!!! just had one a month ago.
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angusmacginny
Apr 24, 2006, 8:47 PM
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i'm going to start grad school there this fall and have a few specific questions about the climbing scene.
1) is there a good local shop that i should be aware of? i know there's an rei but if it's anything like the one here.....
Dont really know this one...
2) is skinners butte good clmbing? if not, what's the best and closest thing to eugene (unfortunately i don't think i'll have a ton of time in the first year. and yes, i know smith is not to far...)
No skinners butte is not good climbing. It is a very small outcrop of about 15 lines that are 30ft tall max.
3) how many decent areas are there within two hour drive? only talking about roped climbing - sport or trad - doesn't matter.
Yes there are some other areas around town. No no one is going to tell you about them because they are all on private property. My hints... Some of them can be seen from the top of skinners butte on a nice day. If you do a little exploring, and meet up with some of the older locals you will find out where they are and maybe get the goods on who to talk to for access. The climbing is very good. Do not be tempted to go without getting permission as some of these climbs lay on one of Oregons most well known familys property and you will likely not get away with it.
4) what's the ethic like there. seems to be a lot of sport areas and shameless bolting as i skim the routes db..
Yea there is a lot of bolting. Shameless? No There is very little in the way of nice crack climbing close to Eugene.
5) ANYTHING else you think i should know would be a huge help and greatly appreciated. i've never really been to the west coast before and near as i can tell, eugene looks pretty much like paradise....
Yes Eugene is pretty much paradise if you are from the east coast or anywhere in between. It is a great town, but to get to any real climbing you have to drive several hours to Smith and climb in the lower gorge, or talk to some other people about another area that has great gear climbing that will not be posted on the internet.
Basically dont sweat it make some friends and you will find plenty of climbing. Oh and dont forget to hit up a couple of Ducks games in the fall. There is no better place to see a good college football game.
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bobruef
Apr 24, 2006, 9:01 PM
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In reply to: Oh and dont forget to hit up a couple of Ducks games in the fall. There is no better place to see a good college football game.
Autzen stadium would be the coolest place in OR to watch a college football game, if Reser Stadium didn't figure into the equation!
GO BEAVS!!!
Oh, and watch out for this guy in Eugene! :lol:
http://www.danegerus.com/.../DuckCheerleader.jpg
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sava6e
Apr 24, 2006, 9:02 PM
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Hey man,
Well for climbing stores there is backcountry gear and rei but there are cheaper and bigger stores in portland. As for making friends I am the coordinator for the climbing team on campus and we are always planning climbing trips etc. columns are good but get old after a while only so many of them to climb, flagstone is good, calahans are good and then we have the famous smith rocks bout 2 hours away and there are world famous routes there and is awesome rock, kinda tears you up if your hands arnt used to it.
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sava6e
Apr 24, 2006, 9:03 PM
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Registered: Apr 2, 2004
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Hey man,
Well for climbing stores there is backcountry gear and rei but there are cheaper and bigger stores in portland. As for making friends I am the coordinator for the climbing team on campus and we are always planning climbing trips etc. columns are good but get old after a while only so many of them to climb, flagstone is good, calahans are good and then we have the famous smith rocks bout 2 hours away and there are world famous routes there and is awesome rock, kinda tears you up if your hands arnt used to it.
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angusmacginny
Apr 24, 2006, 9:26 PM
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You are right I should have clarified. If you like watching a football team loose, in the ugliest college football stadium in the country then yes Reser is your place. Oh forgot to add watching football players who steal sheep prior to their game(fact). In a shitty little town that no one has ever called nice.
Oh and 56-14...
Go ducks!
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bobruef
Apr 24, 2006, 9:40 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
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In reply to: You are right I should have clarified. If you like watching a football team loose, in the ugliest college football stadium in the country then yes Reser is your place. Oh forgot to add watching football players who steal sheep prior to their game(fact). In a s--- little town that no one has ever called nice. Oh and 56-14... Go ducks!
you obviously have no soul :P
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one900johnnyk
Apr 25, 2006, 12:46 AM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
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thanks, everyone..
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milesenoell
Jun 21, 2008, 8:17 PM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2006
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Hey Angus! Are you still climbing in and around Eugene? What about the rest of you?
(This post was edited by milesenoell on Jun 21, 2008, 8:18 PM)
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