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digitalcubano
Apr 26, 2006, 5:22 AM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
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Hi everyone. My experience: newbie, but I took a top rope anchor clinic last year and have also read John Long's anchor book cover-to-cover. I am only interested in top roping until I become comfortable. I'd like to solicit answers to two questions:
1) I have a long piece of stout nylon webbing (tied in a loop with a water knot and 2 half hitches on each end of strand) that works great for anchoring to features far back from the edge. The local place at which I climb also has bolts on some routes that are right near the edge. Is there any way to use this super long webbing on these routes? I was thinking of clipping one end of the webbing loop into one biner and then using something that can best be described as a "double" clove hitch (remember, the webbing is tied into a loop) to clip into the other biner. It "feels" solid, but I appreciate how looks and feels can be decieving....and that some folks are wary of using clove hitches on an anchor point. Is this second attachment safe? If not, is there some alternative (besides using shorter webbing)?
2) On the flip side, I do have some sewn spectra runners. However, the bolts are far enough from the back that I have to girth hitch them together. I understand that this reduces the strength by 30%, but I also understand that the remaining strength is still adequate for top roping. Is there anything else wrong with girth hitching these spectra runners into one big loop to use them like one long strand (i.e. each end clipped into the bolts with a self-equalizing sliding knot at the anchor point)?
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
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vegastradguy
Apr 26, 2006, 5:33 AM
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If the routes have a pair of bolts right near the edge, the best thing to do is just to clip a draw to each bolt and top rope off of those. no need to back them up with something else....
that said, to comment on your questions:
1) not really sure why you would clove hitch the second carabiner....i cant picture a scenario in which you would do that. if you really wanted to use that webbing for your anchor, i would use it cordlette style on the pair of bolts.
2) yes, you can girth hitch spectra runners together, although, if you can, use a carabiner to join them instead (assuming the carabiner wont run over an edge or some other feature that could compromise its strength- in which case you would use a girth hitch to join the runners). but, again, theres no need to do this if you have a pair of bolts to anchor off of.
try to keep your anchors simple- it sounds like you may be over analyzing the problem.
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freeledgeledgy
Apr 26, 2006, 5:46 AM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2006
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digital, if your going to be doing alot of topropping, invest in either some static line or cordiality, these are drastically more resistant to sharp edges than webbing
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112
Apr 26, 2006, 5:54 AM
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Re-tie the webbing to an appropriate length and 'stow' the extra long tails.
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patto
Apr 26, 2006, 7:05 AM
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In reply to: Re-tie the webbing to an appropriate length and 'stow' the extra long tails.
Why bother? Use a figure-8 on a bight to shorten your webbing and clip the bight.
Definately don't use a clove hitch. Clove hitches are not designed to be used with a loose end present. While I have never seen I clove hitch slip, they are not the sort of knot that you would rely upon. ( I use clove hitches all the time for anchors but that is where there is no loose end)
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porcelainsunset
Apr 26, 2006, 8:50 AM
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IMO go to your local store, spend 4 or 5 bucks, and buy yourself some accessory cord in like 8 mm or something, cut in varried length for different anchors. Tie it in loops using a double fisherman's knot and back it up with a single fishermans knot.
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112
May 3, 2006, 2:36 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Re-tie the webbing to an appropriate length and 'stow' the extra long tails. Why bother? Use a figure-8 on a bight to shorten your webbing and clip the bight.
I agree.
I just thought it was the most obvious thing to do, nothing new in the system.
Ken
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digitalcubano
May 3, 2006, 3:37 AM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
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Hey guys, thanks for the now obvious advice (feel free to slap me over the head). It worked like a charm this past weekend.
Thanks again!
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