|
bonez116
May 9, 2006, 2:46 AM
Post #1 of 8
(1223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 6
|
edited...
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
May 9, 2006, 2:55 AM
Post #2 of 8
(1223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
I personally don't see anything 'wrong' with that setup, though I am not sure what having the 2 knots was supposed to achieve (take up slack maybe?).
|
|
|
|
|
rockguide
May 9, 2006, 3:37 AM
Post #3 of 8
(1223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
|
SIngle point anchors are acceptable if they are big solid trees that are alive and well rooted. I try to choose a tree as big as my torso (seems like that means bigger trees every year!).
As for the way the webbing was built - the description sounds ok - it needs to be:
1) redundant so if any one point of the webbing fails the anchor does not fail
2) (hopefully) low on the tree to reduce leverage on the tree.
3) extended over the edge to avoid the rope wearing on the rock or pulling down loose rock (also allows the rope to move.
brian
|
|
|
|
|
boondock_saint
May 9, 2006, 3:50 AM
Post #4 of 8
(1223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2005
Posts: 2157
|
I'm trying to imagein it (mostly in terms of breaking points) and i guess it would be all right.
Personally I would girth hitch two loops of webbing around a big healthy tree and equalize them and then slap two biners on the end.
|
|
|
|
|
double
May 9, 2006, 5:55 PM
Post #5 of 8
(1223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 136
|
In reply to: Personally I would girth hitch two loops of webbing around a big healthy tree and equalize them and then slap two biners on the end.
Why girth hitch? That just reduces the webbing strength. The anchor is fine. If you want to improve on it, use two slings.
|
|
|
|
|
boondock_saint
May 9, 2006, 6:17 PM
Post #6 of 8
(1223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2005
Posts: 2157
|
girth hitch = easier to undo the set up though I didn't know it reduced the strength.
I don't know if you know, but how and why is this the case? And does anyone have any estimates on how much weaker it would make it?
|
|
|
|
|
epoch
Moderator
May 9, 2006, 6:38 PM
Post #7 of 8
(1223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
|
In reply to: girth hitch = easier to undo the set up though I didn't know it reduced the strength. I don't know if you know, but how and why is this the case? And does anyone have any estimates on how much weaker it would make it?
An improper girth hitch around anything with a sling will create a pully effect on the sling. Essentially making a 2 : 1 out of it. Thus greatly increasing the chance of your slings breaking. Not to mention damaging the tree. Even if placed 1/2" off of correct. And in a Top Rope setup the sling has more of a risk of misaligning than, well... Girth hitchs in general have the problem of misaligning whether used in TR or lead.
I would suggest that the OP invest in a lenght of 9mm or greater static about 50 feet in length. You can use it to tie tensionless knots, rewoven figure 8s, and bowlines around trees.
Another suggestion is to tie a simple overhand around the tree and connect the rabbit ears (tails of the knot, with loops) to a carabiner. Doing this rids the possibility of creating a pully or increasing friction to the webbing and possibly cutting through it.
And that is what I teach, and have been trained to do. If you weren't shown adequate procedures to improvise in a top rope setup, then you were definately jipped in your "Class". My $0.02.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
May 9, 2006, 6:52 PM
Post #8 of 8
(1223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
From what you describe, it sounds just fine.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
|
