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shanz
May 3, 2006, 2:32 AM
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i guess the real question is are your ethics based on self fulfillment or rather what others will think of you --- just a thought
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shazinky
May 3, 2006, 3:00 AM
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Whether you pimp nasties or lunge through, easiest way to SEND should be reflected by grade otherwise it is "eliminate". If you lunged through and it was easier, you simply found the easiest for you to do it (unless it was some crappy eliminate).
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aaronbr86
May 3, 2006, 3:14 AM
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In reply to: Oh Dingus, If only I could rate posts today...
done :lol: :lol:
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curt
May 3, 2006, 4:24 AM
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In reply to: "Ethics" is about using (and not abusing) the outdoors / the rock. "Style" is about how you get to the top. Style is always a personal thing, though feel free be influenced from others, if you want.
True enough--but, lying about what you have (or haven't) actually climbed is unethical, IMO.
Curt
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musicman1586
May 3, 2006, 4:31 AM
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In reply to: i guess the real question is are your ethics based on self fulfillment or rather what others will think of you --- just a thought
Very true, are you wondering this for yourself, or are you just wanting to go about saying that you climbed V10 as the other person who seems to know what happened has stated. If you do dyno past most the holds, I agree with most others that it is a send, but that doesn't make you a V10 climber, your not a V10 climber until you've shown that you can really climb at that level, and skipping most of a problem, as it sounds that you did, doesn't really show what level a climber you are, because the V10 rating refers to the sequence put up by the FA, and when you don't follow that (note I said follow, not repeat it exactly as it was originally done) original sequence it's hard to say what you really did climb. There really is a sort of fine line between all of this in my opinion, so it's better I think to just be happy that you had fun doing the problem and leave this one in the dust, choose a better problem or one that you follow more closely to the guidebook for deciding what your climbing prowess is.
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ltj16hb
May 3, 2006, 4:33 AM
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surfing: shortboard? longboard?
which ever one i feel like riding today!
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curt
May 3, 2006, 4:41 AM
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In reply to: Climb bigger rocks and you won't have these problems 8^)
True--you trade them for other problems. :D
Curt
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grimpiperx
May 3, 2006, 4:46 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: i guess the real question is are your ethics based on self fulfillment or rather what others will think of you --- just a thought Very true, are you wondering this for yourself, or are you just wanting to go about saying that you climbed V10 as the other person who seems to know what happened has stated. If you do dyno past most the holds, I agree with most others that it is a send, but that doesn't make you a V10 climber, your not a V10 climber until you've shown that you can really climb at that level, and skipping most of a problem, as it sounds that you did, doesn't really show what level a climber you are, because the V10 rating refers to the sequence put up by the FA, and when you don't follow that (note I said follow, not repeat it exactly as it was originally done) original sequence it's hard to say what you really did climb. There really is a sort of fine line between all of this in my opinion, so it's better I think to just be happy that you had fun doing the problem and leave this one in the dust, choose a better problem or one that you follow more closely to the guidebook for deciding what your climbing prowess is.
This is not about me spraying to people about what level of climber I am. I am not a V10 climber until I can send V10s at any area in 1 session and of course have at least 5 under my belt. This is just about for my head, whether I can tell myself I sent Stubby of the Bush Veldt. I did not bring numbers into this thread, in addition if I were that type of climber I would not have started the thread at all, I would just tell people I sent a V10. In conclusion it appears that I, in the most ethical view sent Stubby of the Bush Veldt Right Dyno Variation, about two grades easier. Thank you for your input all.
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organic
May 3, 2006, 5:32 AM
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In reply to: James, I can't believe you would start a f---ing forum about this. Quoting the guidebook, "Start on thw low crimps. CROSS TO A RIGHT HAND CRIMP, then go past slopey holds to the top. " Yeah, you went left hand to the crimp and dynoed out right to a completely different jug. I did too. Your send is still a valid send of the problem, but do you really think this was V10? f--- no. We found an easier way to get to the top of that boulder going RIGHT instead of LEFT, and this is a variation of the above problem. Seeing as how I flashed it and you did in in like 15 minutes, it is obviously not as hard as the left variation. Maybe the FA'ist didnt see our variation, but instead probably just wanted to make a hard climb so he SPECIFICALLY SPECIFIED going RIGHT HAND TO THE CRIMP. So, in conclusion, you sent the right variation of Stubby, and it is V7, douchebag. PS> Ryan said you're not allowed to set.
hahahahahaha best post ever!
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rocketsocks
May 3, 2006, 7:44 AM
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In reply to: True enough--but, lying about what you have (or haven't) actually climbed is unethical, IMO. Curt
Of course. Just make sure to write your name with an asterisk next to it in the summit log book. :D
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shanz
May 3, 2006, 12:31 PM
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[quote="musicman1586"]In reply to: i guess the real question is are your ethics based on self fulfillment or rather what others will think of you --- just a thought
Very true, are you wondering this for yourself, or are you just wanting to go about saying that you climbed V10 as the other person who seems to know what happened has stated. quote]
actually i just climb - I'm a climber don't really claim to be a 5'10 climber or a v10 boulderer or whatever - but I'm just a climber granted Ive climbed some hard stuff and some easy dint like to classify myself its a very limiting endeavor that tends to trap you into a single way of thinking.. not to mention i dont to "spray" my climbing accomplishments to cause most people dont really care
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grimpiperx
May 3, 2006, 7:23 PM
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[quote="shanz"]In reply to: In reply to: i guess the real question is are your ethics based on self fulfillment or rather what others will think of you --- just a thought Very true, are you wondering this for yourself, or are you just wanting to go about saying that you climbed V10 as the other person who seems to know what happened has stated. quote] actually i just climb - I'm a climber don't really claim to be a 5'10 climber or a v10 boulderer or whatever - but I'm just a climber granted Ive climbed some hard stuff and some easy dint like to classify myself its a very limiting endeavor that tends to trap you into a single way of thinking.. not to mention i dont to "spray" my climbing accomplishments to cause most people dont really care
Can you not read? Please read my last post, this is not about me spraying. Please read before you post.
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jgill
May 6, 2006, 10:14 PM
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Here are a few thoughts: First, eliminates have been around since the first recorded bouldering. On my website is a photo taken in 1902 of a British climber on his knees doing an eliminate, and another taken in the 1890s of a climber ascending a short boulder upside down. Where the boulders are few and far between, eliminates provide variety unobtainable if bouldering is treated as microclimbing. My own opinion - which is not shared by most boulderers these days - is that there is a distinction between boulder routes and boulder problems. A route is a general path from one point, usually the bottom, to another point, usually the top. A problem can be either a path or a described procedure for traversing a path. Thus, sit-starts would all be problems, and going straight to the top with a dyno from the sit-start, rather than using intermediate holds, would be merely another problem, whereas in some instances the boulder itself might be so small that without these restrictions there would be virtually nothing to climb. I.e., the concept of route would be meaningless.
But, this is all semantics - do what you wish and enjoy yourself, thanking the fates that climbing (including bouldering) is relatively unregulated, unlike competitive gymnastics - a highly organized sport so committed to extreme difficulty that it has practically no recreational value anymore. 8^)
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bizarrodrinker
May 12, 2006, 7:59 PM
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I would tend to think of these such situations as "variations". Guide books from what I have seen include a signature start, general direction of the climb (usually including a move/feature that makes the problem) and the top out. This is not to say that these variations are bad, just different, and they may be harder or easier depending on who is climbing.
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bizarrodrinker
May 12, 2006, 8:02 PM
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I would tend to think of these such situations as "variations". Guide books from what I have seen include a signature start, general direction of the climb (usually including a move/feature that makes the problem) and the top out. This is not to say that these variations are bad, just different, and they may be harder or easier depending on who is climbing.
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fiend
May 13, 2006, 3:59 PM
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Give it the full grade if you're putting it on your 8a.nu scorecard.
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gunkiemike
May 13, 2006, 8:31 PM
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Dynos are for people who can't do the moves. :wink:
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tonloc
May 14, 2006, 12:43 AM
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i say that if you didn't use holds not on the route then it was a valid send, how is one to know what the proper sequence is anyways unless it is very particularly stated, plus what is easier for one person may be impossible for another person and vise versa, nice dyno i say hope it was fun...
...and dynos aren't for people who can't do moves, they get you laid, chuck norris dynoed to the moon once of the worst crimps you have ever seen and he gets laid all the time...
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nevenneve
May 14, 2006, 2:37 AM
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So you did a B1, photo shop a picture so it looks like your balls are too heavy for your frame and be done with it. No really, childlike playfulness is healthy until it gets thrown in the same attic as adult minded pragmatism. Choosing to use both hands for either your toys or a book would have made this slightly less inane and definitely would have gotten the quality replies earlier in the thread.
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glyrocks
May 15, 2006, 4:59 AM
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In reply to: Bouldering is about getting to the top..
heh, of course it is...
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johnwesely
Jun 14, 2006, 2:07 PM
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Its a send unless you use extra holds. Otherwise everybody would be doing a different problem and life would become to complicated.
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mikej
Jun 15, 2006, 5:37 AM
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In reply to: Dynos are for people who can't do the moves. :wink:
OR...
People that can't dyno have to do all of the moves.
Betcha never saw that coming.
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lazyjammin
Jun 15, 2006, 8:11 AM
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You know id say thats a valid send, though you definitely did not do it at the same difficulty level as the FA, but I guess you sent the problem. But then it doesnt really matter, does it? Unless your going for the grade and then I dont think you can say I climb V (whatever), but rather I dynoed it, or I ran to the boulder and jumped off it and grabbed the lip>>>
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