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timpanogos
Sep 1, 2002, 5:52 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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Hey, as the outdoor season starts to wind down, I'm looking for a regular gym partner in the SLC, Utah area (or Provo/Orem). I have not joined an indoor rock gym yet, so I'm open this way. I'm interested in early morning or evening - say 2 days per week to concentrate on some structured training of technique and strength.
My personal goal is to be leading 5.8 Trad comfortably next year.
If you are interested in a regulary scheduled work-out please let me know.
Chad
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ratstar
Sep 1, 2002, 6:10 PM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2001
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When you say regular workout it sounds like your taking all the fun out of it. Climbing to me is about the feeling and the fun. Not the regularly working it. Regularly climbing now that I can dig.
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timpanogos
Sep 1, 2002, 10:14 PM
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Well Ratstar, I've found that most things worth having are worth working for.
My goals for next season - a week in the Tetons - Lower Exum, Spalding etc. - How about Lone Peak - looks like some intense stuff in the guide book. Sundial Peak, Northern face leading up to Pheiferhorn - 5.7/8 three star routes in BCC and LCC.
This season I was lucky enough to get out just about 2 times every week - but fun? No, as you sit several pitches up a cliff, checking out the view, and then the look on your partners face as he/she goes to tie in. After building an anchor, getting tied in, setting up for belay, and finally settling in and looking around – it hits you – wow, this is what it’s all about, this is why I do this! The challenge, the achievement, the view - It’s much much more than fun - it's a religious experience!
Maybe the gym will surprise me (never done any indoor climbing). I'm viewing it as a tool to get me to that intense belay station next season.
I'm planning on following the advice of books like "How to Climb 5.12" and spend time working on "Variable and random Schema Development, sport specific strength training, Flexibility” etc.
I currently lead trad comfortably at 5.6, I’ve been off route and done higher out of necessity. I have followed trad pitches at 5.9 (dropping the gear on the rope and leaving until back on 5.6 holds to rack it!). I assume I should be able to climb 2 or 3 grades higher in the gym than I comfortably lead trad. I want to get my skills and strength as high as possible this winter. You never know when life/limb might depend on it next season.
So I suppose I should narrow my search for a partner. Anyone interested in planning and preparing for some specific Alpine/Trad adventures next season?
Chad
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ratstar
Sep 4, 2002, 6:25 AM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2001
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Well said my friend well said.
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acboett
Sep 5, 2002, 4:48 AM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
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I currently belong to Rocreation and don't think much of it other than I do Like to train. I am there once or twice a week and would welcome a partner. I've got alot of plastic trianing background, but still only climb moderates. The alpine medium is great motivation for goals! Perhaps we can connect.
Cheers Andy 792-7782 daytime
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geckobean1
Sep 5, 2002, 11:27 PM
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Registered: Aug 17, 2002
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hey my name is chad to. Right now i have a membership at rockreation. i usually go in the afternon- evening after school.
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phlyfisher
Sep 10, 2002, 5:24 PM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
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I am a member at the front. I go there about four times a week in the winter. Its a fun place to boulder and meet new partners.
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