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nate2136
Sep 8, 2006, 5:23 AM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Oct 10, 2005
Posts: 9
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hello all!
I need some help with getting together a training regimen. I mostly boulder, or atleast thats what i would like to train for. i am currently sending V4s and 5s. i am at school in murfreesboro and the closest place to boulder is back home in chattanooga which is like 2 hours away so i can only get out there like one weekend out of every three. my school has a climbing wall, weight room facilities, i have metolius rock rings and i think i can install one of those hangboards in my apartment. my upper body is fairly strong, i think what i really lack is finger strength, i cant hold on to crimpers to save my life. if any one could help me out with some kind of training regimen that would be awesome!!
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grimpiperx
Sep 8, 2006, 6:37 AM
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Registered: May 30, 2004
Posts: 330
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If you want finger strength, just boulder on the worst holds you possibly can. Do not worry about the lengths of the moves just do small moves on really really small/bad holds. Also climb crimps on the steepest wall you can. Unless you add heinous amounts of weight your rock rings aren't going to help actual finger strength much. If the wall you have access to doesn't have miserable holds or steep climbing, attach a lot of weights to your harness and hang from a very sturdy doorframe, just add weight until you can't hang much longer than 6 seconds. Just hanging on crimps for like minutes on end is not really going to help finger strength.
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