|
|
|
|
angry
Sep 9, 2006, 4:51 PM
Post #1 of 27
(4071 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
I'm going to do it. I'm not stoked on the whole adjustable crack woodies, they take 5-10 minutes to change sizes. I want to jump off and jump on the next size. Or downclimb, switch sizes, go up...until lactic acidosis sets in.
My goal is to build a woodie that has the following (sizes will be in popular cam sizes, splitter), green alien, tight yellow alien, red alien, 1.5 friend, and .75 Camalot. All the other sizes are relatively easy or too material intensive for the project.
My idea is to have those 5 cracks, side by side (relatively) permanently fixed. I sort of wanted to use just 2x4's, but the flex would render the contraption stupid, so I'm going to use two 2x4 for each vertical section. Placing them next to each other, separated by spacers, and bolted together with long pieces of all-thread, there should be little flex.
-I'm going make the unit 16 feet high, assuming a length of 8' per board, that's 24 boards.
-2x4's are splintery, even when sanded. I'm going to nail thin MDF to the climbing surfaces. This will eliminate splinters AND be slick as hell. I prefer slick so I can perfect the jams, not fake it with friction.
-The bottom of the whole unit will be attached via 2-way hinges and the top using webbing in a tree. This will give me the ability to climb less than vertical to grosly overhanging. I think a little wobble won't affect it much.
I'm crossing my fingers I can do it with $100.
Any ideas or suggestions before I start?
|
|
|
|
|
mturner
Sep 9, 2006, 6:07 PM
Post #2 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2005
Posts: 980
|
I'm having a little bit of trouble picturing this. Are the 2x4s going to have anything on the back of them? In other words, what will they be mounted on?
Sadly, you're going to have trouble doing this for $100. At about $2-4 for each 2x4 (depending on quality of wood and you'll want treated wood because it's going to be outside)...for 24 boards that's almost $100 right there. Plus cost of bolting, webbing, mounting stuff, ect ect.
Also, you might want to have a backup anchor apart from the tree.
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Sep 9, 2006, 6:21 PM
Post #3 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
I think the price is too low too. I'll get to the store and price stuff.
They don't need to be mounted to anything. The boards will all be bolted together using long pieces of all-thread.
Won't be needing anything to reinforce the anchor, I'm putting a crashpad down and calling it safe.
|
|
|
|
|
core
Sep 9, 2006, 9:02 PM
Post #4 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 1102
|
how wide will the rig be? I have a feeling you'll want something to brace the inclination that you choose, more than some webbing. It will bounce and warp as you're pluggin' away too.
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Sep 14, 2006, 6:21 AM
Post #5 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
I've been thinking of doing something similar. with those sizes, why not sheet the back with plywood to support it? you could even sheet between the "cracks" too.
|
|
|
|
|
foeslts16
Sep 14, 2006, 7:04 AM
Post #6 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2002
Posts: 210
|
i have a Friend that converted his 3 car garage into a bouldering cave. He was jonesing to add a crack to train on. I suggested a similar idea made out of wood. He would have none of it. it must be rock. he framed the whole ceiling of his garage and gorilla glued 100/150 pound pieces of slate to this contraption. I was extremely skeptical, but jumped on it first. The thing was the bomb. My buddy jumps on and pulls one of the 100 pound blocks down onto his head. off topic, but funny..
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Sep 14, 2006, 12:24 PM
Post #7 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
When I built a crack machine, I used wider boards - something like 2x8, I think (maybe only 2x6). Because I wanted some wood on both sides of the all thread, so it would hold. And, I didn't want to be placing my jams between the rods - but rather, have a continuous, unobstructed crack.
I painted it with some homemade sand paint (added sand to some paint). Had no problems with splinters. I'd suggest having a little friction in the set-up - unless you're buildering glass & steel skyscrapers, I doubt you'll ever be in a frictionless situation.
|
|
|
|
|
skinner
Sep 14, 2006, 12:53 PM
Post #8 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
|
In reply to: I'd suggest having a little friction in the set-up - unless you're buildering glass & steel skyscrapers, I doubt you'll ever be in a frictionless situation.
I agree.. one friction painted one that I tried must have had some really course sand, and was very realistic, right down to tearing the sh*t out of your hands. I'm adding the non-skid ground up rubber to the paint instead of sand, only because I don't feel like having tape up every time I use it.
|
|
|
|
|
svilnit
Sep 14, 2006, 12:59 PM
Post #9 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 582
|
Let me preface this by saying I have no experience of any kind building something like this.....
Instead of just using straight 2x6's could you router the edges a bit to create some irregularities and then paint it with something like the metolius texture paint to more accuratly create a real crack?
|
|
|
|
|
skinner
Sep 14, 2006, 1:43 PM
Post #10 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
|
In reply to: Let me preface this by saying I have no experience of any kind building something like this..... Instead of just using straight 2x6's could you router the edges a bit to create some irregularities and then paint it with something like the metolius texture paint to more accuratly create a real crack?
You can do anything you want, but I think getting too carried away with little details when building 10 - 20' of crack, is a waste of time. It you can make it adjustable, great, if not live with a uniform crack, and use it to build the strength it takes to stay glued to a crack by running laps on it.
I tried and interesting one in Europe, that was more of an off-width, and rather then the crack itself being adjustable by cranking on nuts and all-thread, you could add inserts, from 1'- 4' long and effectively size the crack down to whatever width you wanted. The kewl part about this was that you could step the width and configure the crack in all sorts of varying combination of widths from end-to-end. This definitely gave you the most realistic crack climbing I have tried.
|
|
|
|
|
veganboyjosh
Sep 14, 2006, 2:40 PM
Post #11 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2003
Posts: 1421
|
i'd love to see some pics of homemade crack woodies, or crack machines, or whatever.
i understand the concept, but i'm having a hard time visualizing it.
|
|
|
|
|
chollapete
Sep 14, 2006, 2:52 PM
Post #12 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2006
Posts: 47
|
Pics would be great. There's a post here from someone in Tucson--they were looking for a roommate--that mentions the crack woody, but the picture link doesn't work (for me, at least). Here's the thread, but no pic:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...hp?p=1378809#1378809
Pics?, please...
|
|
|
|
|
hsvclimber
Sep 14, 2006, 3:00 PM
Post #13 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 65
|
I'd use 2x6 or 2x8 as a min. once you get into hand cracks. Look at the length of you hand from wrist to finger tip. I just measured mine. Its 7 1/2 inches. If you use a 2x4 and your jamming straight in your fingers will be hanging out the back of your rig. We have one at our gym built of 2x6 and I find it is even to shallow for certain jams. One option is to put a back on your rig, then all jams will be only 3 1/2 inches deep kind of shallow for most hand cracks. If you don't put a back on it, its hard to keep from cheating by rapping your fingers around the back or the board... even if your trying not to do it.
|
|
|
|
|
veganboyjosh
Sep 14, 2006, 3:05 PM
Post #14 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2003
Posts: 1421
|
In reply to: If you don't put a back on it, its hard to keep from cheating by rapping your fingers around the back or the board... even if your trying not to do it.
good point. i've seen this issue in a gym somewhere...
|
|
|
|
|
mturner
Sep 14, 2006, 3:37 PM
Post #15 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2005
Posts: 980
|
In reply to: In reply to: If you don't put a back on it, its hard to keep from cheating by rapping your fingers around the back or the board... even if your trying not to do it. good point. i've seen this issue in a gym somewhere...
That's kinda what I was getting at too. You need something behind there, especially with using only 2x4s. I'd suggest plywood.
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Sep 14, 2006, 4:35 PM
Post #16 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
The other thing I'd suggest is to just build one at first, not the whole set of widths you want. Build one that is cupped hand or fist size & use it for a while to get feedback on your design. Then build the rest.
That way, if you decide that the cracks really need to be deeper, have more or less sand in the paint, need more bracing to be stable, or are perfect as is, you can incorporate that knowledge into the other ones you build.
|
|
|
|
|
dleighto
Sep 14, 2006, 4:47 PM
Post #17 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2006
Posts: 36
|
In reply to: The other thing I'd suggest is to just build one at first, not the whole set of widths you want. Build one that is cupped hand or fist size & use it for a while to get feedback on your design. Then build the rest. That way, if you decide that the cracks really need to be deeper, have more or less sand in the paint, need more bracing to be stable, or are perfect as is, you can incorporate that knowledge into the other ones you build.
I definitely agree.
|
|
|
|
|
cchildre
Sep 14, 2006, 6:36 PM
Post #18 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
|
Well it sounds like a good idea. I have toyed with a similar idea as well. Perhaps I might be throwing one up next to my chimney sometime soon.
If you want to hear from someone who has a crack machine. Check out Okieterry, Mr OKC badass himself.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=50057
His is adjustable via some threaded rod so he can adjust his crack to whatever width he would like. Using a 2X6 or 2x8 might be just the ticket, I would avoid the 4's, the flex would be terrible. Using the 8's and putting in support rods at regular intervals like every 3 or 4 feet then the flex would be almost inperceiveable. For the surface. I would bail on MDF, it will soak up moisture, bubble and break apart. When I am putting mine together, I am going with some pressure treated stuff to resist rot. Let it dry out thourghly. A mixture of fiberglass resin and coarse sand will go on the working surfaces. and the rest will get a couple of coats of paint. Fiberglass resin is basically expoxy and will last for quite awhile. Using the threaded rod will allow you to take it apart and recoat should the time ever come.
Terry is such a badass, I just wish I had the skills to use a crackmachine like his. Hell he can even have his flare or taper if he wants.
Link to his photo for his personal description: http://www.rockclimbing.com/photo/photo_show.php?id=50057
|
|
|
|
|
bkboyd
Sep 14, 2006, 9:03 PM
Post #19 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 28, 2003
Posts: 75
|
It's a bit more work, but this approach will give you more realistic cracks, eliminate the need for spacers, and get rid of the cracks flexing on you. You're going to sandwich pieces of 2x4 in between layers of plywood, something like this:
http://www.briankboyd.com/...es/AZclimb/crack.jpg
Start with a piece of 2x4. Rip it lengthwise using either a scroll saw or a sawzall. You'll want the big blades for the former, as the blades tend to break if you push too aggressively. Run the blade in a slightly irregular line. This will give you two halves, with parallel contours on either side.
You can add pin scars, flares, pods, etc, by taking additional chunks off either (or both) sides of the crack. You can add a lot of variation using a belt sander in no time.
Run a wood rasp over the exposed sides of the crack. This will give it a rougher texture.
Experiment until you have a crack of the size and shape that you like. Then, lay the two sides out on the plywood and mark the contours. Cut these out of the plywood, and screw the 2x4 segments to the back of the plywood. Cut a small piece of plywood and screw it to the back of the 2x4 segments. You'll need to do some fine-tuning where the plywood meets the 2x4.
You can cut everything out at the same time, but this approach is less forgiving if you make a mistake. Also, you can use a 2x6 if you want to make the crack less even.
When you're done, it should look like this:
http://www.briankboyd.com/...imb/finger_crack.jpg
Between the plywood and the 2x4, you'll have a depth of 1.75 inches -- ample for tip cracks. For full on fingers where you can sink in up to your knuckle, sandwich two pieces of 2x4 in between the front and back plywood sections.
While you were looking for smaller cracks, here are some shots of both hand and fist crack segments, just for fun:
http://www.briankboyd.com/...climb/hand_crack.jpg
http://www.briankboyd.com/...climb/fist_crack.jpg
|
|
|
|
|
chouca
Sep 14, 2006, 10:45 PM
Post #20 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 12, 2003
Posts: 149
|
I've built one of these, and they really do wonders for your technique. I used a 2x12x10 as the crack, with 10" long, 3/8" bolts spaced every 2 1/2 feet. I put wooden blocks of varying size in the crack, above and below each bolt. They acted like washers and ratcheted the crack down with a socket wrench down to the desired size. They also kept my hands from getting shredded on the threads.
I also stuffed closed cell foam into the back of the crack to make it shallow. Have fun flashing Sphinx Crack!
Good luck,
Marc
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Sep 15, 2006, 12:24 AM
Post #21 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
Umm, how do I say this without inciting the wrath of the spray police?
I er, um, well you know, I climb 5.12 cracks. Like all the time. I don't mean to, I just get lost in the woods (or desert) and see this pretty crack and go up it.
I'm confident in my ability that I know how to hand jam. I'm not going to waste my time or money building cracks in sizes that are so easy. Tips, Fingers (for warmups), rattly fingers, off fingers, finger/thumb stacks. And smooth as hell, otherwise I'll find some feature to make it too easy.
It's only going to be 16 feet, it better be FIERCE or it's just not effective at that distance.
|
|
|
|
|
cchildre
Sep 15, 2006, 2:27 PM
Post #22 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 671
|
In reply to: Umm, how do I say this without inciting the wrath of the spray police? I er, um, well you know, I climb 5.12 cracks. Like all the time. I don't mean to, I just get lost in the woods (or desert) and see this pretty crack and go up it. I'm confident in my ability that I know how to hand jam. I'm not going to waste my time or money building cracks in sizes that are so easy. Tips, Fingers (for warmups), rattly fingers, off fingers, finger/thumb stacks. And smooth as hell, otherwise I'll find some feature to make it too easy. It's only going to be 16 feet, it better be FIERCE or it's just not effective at that distance.
Well a 12' flared horizontal roof might provide a small challenge. At least it would put the pump on! I would think.
Just a question.....Can an offwidth section go harder than 11? Unless it were just some crazy roof....if so...examples? I was just wondering what some of the hardest offwidths are out there? BTW...Love offs, something about a crack I can get my knee into makes me drool.
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Sep 15, 2006, 4:46 PM
Post #23 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
In reply to: Umm, how do I say this without inciting the wrath of the spray police?
I think you did a good job.
In reply to: I er, um, well you know, I climb 5.12 cracks. Like all the time. I don't mean to, I just get lost in the woods (or desert) and see this pretty crack and go up it.
In reply to: I'm confident in my ability that I know how to hand jam. I'm not going to waste my time or money building cracks in sizes that are so easy. Tips, Fingers (for warmups), rattly fingers, off fingers, finger/thumb stacks. And smooth as hell, otherwise I'll find some feature to make it too easy. It's only going to be 16 feet, it better be FIERCE or it's just not effective at that distance. |
|
|
|
|
redlegrangerone
Sep 15, 2006, 7:45 PM
Post #24 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2005
Posts: 851
|
Belly Full of Bad Berries 5.13-, Indian Creek. Overhanging Offwidth.
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Sep 15, 2006, 10:34 PM
Post #25 of 27
(4069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
In reply to: Just a question.....Can an offwidth section go harder than 11? Unless it were just some crazy roof....if so...examples? I was just wondering what some of the hardest offwidths are out there? BTW...Love offs, something about a crack I can get my knee into makes me drool.
A great example of an offwidth that's pretty hard with no roof is "Kent's Beach Party" there's a pic of the FA in my profile. I called it 11d+ and that's accurate if you master a technique I spent a year developing, otherwise, it's near impossible.
Of course Bellyfull is given a 13a rating, but having played on it (not sent though) I doubt it's harder than 12b.
Another route with no roof is Big Pink in Vedauwoo. For my money, it's the hardest roped offwidth in Vedauwoo. I can't touch it, whereas many other offwidths with harder ratings are easier for me. It's not a 12, but I climb 12 offwidth and can't do it.
Then the crown jewel might be "Wild World of Sports" (Jaybro?) It looks like 100 feet of Big Pink. I have not done it, I can't imagine such a thing.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
