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Partner cracklover


Sep 14, 2006, 1:29 AM
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There's a ton of valuable insight on ClimbingBetty's old Elitist Mentors thread. Well worth reading.

GO


larryd


Sep 14, 2006, 2:09 AM
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Here you go-- Mentor Available. This is the story. I'm a Red Rock old-timer coming back from a shoulder injury. I've got to work my way back through the easy stuff. Anybody in Las Vegas looking to jump in, shoot me a PM.

Larry


z_rock90


Sep 14, 2006, 3:11 AM
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Don't freak out 300ft off the deck!!!! I've had this happen twice, Its a bitch :evil:


sbaclimber


Sep 14, 2006, 3:36 AM
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I would love to give this whole thread and every response so far, as a whole, a trophy. I can't, so the OP got one :D

Someone mentioned not bailing at the last minute, which is good, but if you do, at least let your mentor know. I have been with socialclimber twice so far when someone bailed on him, but didn't contact him to say so.

My 2cents, to add to the many good tips so far, have a good sense of humor.
If we are busting your balls, it means we like you :wink:


healyje


Sep 14, 2006, 4:09 AM
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Here you go-- Mentor Available. This is the story. I'm a Red Rock old-timer coming back from a shoulder injury. I've got to work my way back through the easy stuff. Anybody in Las Vegas looking to jump in, shoot me a PM.

Larry

In case you folks don't realize it - this represents an "opportunity of a lifetime". I'd go so far as to say if you wanted to learn to climb trad better and have the time to kill I'd get to LV and just make myself available anytime Larry's got the time...

There's a lot of good advice in this thread but pretty much the "ideal" prereqs I like to see when teaching someone to climb trad are:

- that they're into the "idea" of it
- are out to have a good time
- are basically calm and relaxed
- not a complete chatterbox
- can be reasonably flexible relative to what may or may not go on
- can figure out how to "go with the flow"
- show a little initiative
- don't get down on themselves too much
- prepared to epic and deal

Aside from those it's always easier to make it work when common sense and courtesy are reasonably in evidence...


Partner blazesod


Sep 14, 2006, 4:55 AM
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In case you are extremely new to this climbing thing try Madden's rules:

1) Be on time (at least show up for the timely challenged like myself)
2) Pay attention (helps with the learning process)
3) have fun :)

Cheers,
-Dave


trevzilla


Sep 14, 2006, 5:23 AM
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In reply to:
Here you go-- Mentor Available. This is the story. I'm a Red Rock old-timer coming back from a shoulder injury. I've got to work my way back through the easy stuff. Anybody in Las Vegas looking to jump in, shoot me a PM.

Larry

In case you folks don't realize it - this represents an "opportunity of a lifetime". I'd go so far as to say if you wanted to learn to climb trad better and have the time to kill I'd get to LV and just make myself available anytime Larry's got the time...

Well said. I've climbed once with Larry, and I didn't know that it was the opportunity of a lifetime. . .He's a great guy. I learned some great trad techniques from him! Thanks again for taking me out larryd!


mattyp


Sep 14, 2006, 6:55 AM
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DON'T BE LATE. Dont' try to get ready for a trip the morning of, you will inevitably be late. I hate missing time on any kind of outing because my friends are late.


beesty511


Sep 14, 2006, 7:49 AM
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i only have one requirement: a beginner has to know how to belay safely. with that solid foundation, i will climb single pitch trad with any beginner. without that skill, i won't climb with a seasoned veteran.

in my estimation, i see about 1 out of 50 climbers that can belay safely. most climbers don't seem to understand that belaying requires active participation. first, a belayer has to know how to brace their body to catch a fall so that they won't launch headfirst into the wall. most belayers stand a few feet from the wall and facing the wall with their feet shoulder width apart. in that position, i can jerk the rope with my hand and pull them off balance. even when you show beginners how to stand so that they're properly braced to catch a fall, they often find it uncomfortable to stand like that, so they just revert back to unsafe belaying and call it good. that doesn't cut it. news flash--it's tiring to belay someone.

second, all climbers need to look around them at the way other people belay. do they belay differently than you? why? if you can't explain why your method is safer than their method, then you need to start doing some research. ask questions and learn the best practices, and then modify your technique so that it is the safest it can be. average doesn't cut it in climbing.

finally, a beginner shouldn't talk to anyone when they are belaying. they're full concentration should be on the leader and employing proper belay technique. if they find that boring or too tiring, they should stick to top roping.

as far as i'm concerned, a beginner can leave gear all over the route, not know anything about rope management, be ingorant about keeping themself safe, be unfamiliar with the climbing area, waste time, not have a car, and be broke. as long as they can belay me safely, i'll climb with them.


gunkiemike


Sep 14, 2006, 10:12 AM
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Learn and practice rope ascension skills so you can get back on if you're dangling off a large overhang.

Know and practice first aid and self rescue skills so you can help out if your fearless leader Fs himself up somehow. While you can get by shouting for help in the Gunks most days, going backcountry exploring is a lot more serious. Ask yourself - "what would I do if the leader gets unconscious right now?" S$@& does happen, ya know.

Always have a bit of your own gear on you (a couple slings and biners). (If you've followed the advice above, you'll know why).


Partner epoch
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Sep 14, 2006, 1:15 PM
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The one thing that I ask of people who are looking for a mentor is to have a strong desire to learn.

With that said, if the person has the motivation they will be able to contribute more to the expierence. I don't treat my new followers like plebes or try to maintain the sensai - student relationship. I involve them with everything that needs to happen. I have the flexability to change what I am doing to help you understand what it is that I am doing.

My best advice is to have an idea of what you want to learn. (They don't have to be specific.) If there is a line that they'd want to do let me know ahead of time, instead of at the base of the crag, so that I can come prepaired for the route and have a plan of things to show you that may pertain specifically to that route. (Even if I have to reasearch like mad craziness to get beta or info about the route because I have yet to climb it.) If you want to learn something let whom ever is taking you out know. If they don't know that you have something specific you want to learn they will probably not show you it.

Akin to my personality, Be prepared to learn something that is random, yet totally useful in any situation.

Carry the load.

Buy the beer.

And most importantly, have a good time.


svilnit


Sep 14, 2006, 1:34 PM
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I've got to second this comment. Also, unless the mentor is trying to take you up a big wall or something else not for your level of climbing, don't puss out because you have not been higher than the indoor gym wall's height.
As the trip is planned, research the climb and area, ask yourself if this is really something you really want to do, before you commit to the leader. It is OK to be scared on multipitch but do everything possible to mentally prepare yourself to not freeze up at the exposure.
This has happened to me too many times. I have found myself staring at the rock the rest of the weekend cursing that I cannot find another partner. It has usually happened when I went with some aspiring trad climber who has a mostly gym background. Now I am VERY aprehensive before setting off for a weekend climbing trip with someone I met solely in the gym. To set things straight, I don't take them up the hardest thing I can climb. I start them off on 5.3s or something.


That's a damn good one! First time on Seneca was my first time on a multipitch climb. I definitely had the pucker factor going. By the 2nd pitch I was ready to bag it because my ass was cramping from all the puckering going on. There was no way I was letting the leader down though and I hiked up my skirt and pushed on. After we rapped back down I was so glad I didn't punk out.


markc


Sep 14, 2006, 2:26 PM
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That's a damn good one! First time on Seneca was my first time on a multipitch climb. I definitely had the pucker factor going. By the 2nd pitch I was ready to bag it because my ass was cramping from all the puckering going on. There was no way I was letting the leader down though and I hiked up my skirt and pushed on. After we rapped back down I was so glad I didn't punk out.

I was dealing with a real fear of heights when I started climbing. On my first trip to Seneca, my friend Dave was reassuring, but only to a point. He said, "If you feel really uncomfortable with the height, we'll descend as soon as it's safe." There was a brief pause. "If that happens, I'm never bringing you back here again." Thankfully it wasn't an issue, and a really good partnership developed from there.

I posted some general advice for new climbers in another thread. If you're safe, fun to be around, and enthusiastic about what you're doing, you're half-way there. If you're more than a few minutes late, if you complain, if you don't offer to split gas or carry gear, if you don't ask how you can help, I'll get the feeling you're trying to coast, or even worse, that you don't give a damn.

When I take someone new climbing, I give them a free pass on day one. They can just climb, they don't learn to belay unless they ask, and I give them a light load to carry in. If they come back, welcome to the club. You can start chipping in like the rest of us. For someone's first traditional experience, it's often the same. Put them in the middle of a party of three, get them familiar with lighter duties, and see if they're interested. From there, they have an idea of what to expect and can start pitching in.


ter_bee


Sep 15, 2006, 3:47 AM
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i saw this subject line and thought, 'what a great idea for a post!' i've always wanted to be a great partner, though not necessarily just a follower.

after i read the 10,000 rules and had to reconsider whether i'm hot enough for you f*ers or would talk too much i thought, "thank GOD i'm learning trad WITH somebody and not FROM somebody." i'm happy to pay for an occasional lesson so long as i can be myself at the crag instead of obeying all your stupid rules.

for those of you who said, 'hey, know how to belay and enjoy yourself,' here's a big virtual smooch. the rest of you can take a laxative.


sbaclimber


Sep 15, 2006, 3:58 AM
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i saw this subject line and thought, 'what a great idea for a post!'
That should've been your first clue that the majority of content within the thread was going to cause you to get your panties in a twist :wink:


ter_bee


Sep 15, 2006, 4:02 AM
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In reply to:
i saw this subject line and thought, 'what a great idea for a post!'
That should've been your first clue that the majority of content within the thread was going to cause you to get your panties in a twist :wink:
what panties? and whose side are you on, the constipateds or the good guys?


sbaclimber


Sep 15, 2006, 4:07 AM
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what panties?
:lol:

In reply to:
and whose side are you on, the constipateds or the good guys?
I see no difference, but I will let you decide for yourself.


healyje


Sep 15, 2006, 4:16 AM
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i after i read the 10,000 rules and had to reconsider whether i'm hot enough for you f*ers or would talk too much i thought, "thank GOD i'm learning trad WITH somebody and not FROM somebody." i'm happy to pay for an occasional lesson so long as i can be myself at the crag instead of obeying all your stupid rules.

Actually, that's a reasonable way to learn as well even if a bit longer, though I'd skip the paying part. I personally wouldn't care how good you looked if you were talking constantly - the human A.M. radio thing is one of the few I just can't handle and make no apologies for it. As for the rest, those were "ideal" prereqs and in no way rules. And I personally find the whole "must know how to belay" thing a bit unhinged to be frank- it wasn't and wouldn't be on my list because if you can't belay you shouldn't be trad climbing period - you should be learning to belay and that's a different deal all together. His take on belaying isn't wrong - it's just a odd thing to focus on in this context in my opinion...


stymingersfink


Sep 15, 2006, 6:05 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
i after i read the 10,000 rules and had to reconsider whether i'm hot enough for you f*ers or would talk too much i thought, "thank GOD i'm learning trad WITH somebody and not FROM somebody." i'm happy to pay for an occasional lesson so long as i can be myself at the crag instead of obeying all your stupid rules.

Actually, that's a reasonable way to learn as well even if a bit longer, though I'd skip the paying part. I personally wouldn't care how good you looked if you were talking constantly - the human A.M. radio thing is one of the few I just can't handle and make no apologies about it. As for the rest, those were "ideal" prereqs and in no way rules. And I personally find the whole "must know how to belay" thing a bit unhinged to be frank- it wasn't and wouldn't be on my list because if you can't belay you shouldn't be trad climbing period - you should be learning to belay and that's a different deal all together. His take on belaying isn't wrong - it's just a odd thing to focus on in this context in my opinion...
...and the thread goes to shit. oh well. lets see if it can be saved. Perhaps ter-bee should start again from the beginning, as it's better to learn FROM someone than WITH someone.

suggestions, all of it, on how to attract a trad mentor.

let me run healyje's words by you again, ter-bee, just in case you missed it :
In reply to:
I personally wouldn't care how good you looked if you were talking constantly - the human A.M. radio thing is one of the few I just can't handle and make no apologies for it.
That's one man's way of saying STFU, in case you missed it. Now here's why:



First of all, to post you should BE or HAVE BEEN a TRAD MENTOR to someone, 'cause if not your opinion just sounds like some whiny little bitch complaining about how mis-understood they are and why won't someone take you under their wing and show you what they know and you wish you knew, doesn't it?

It is an apprenticeship, and in most apprenticeships the new-guy gets a ration of shit. In fact, if you're not getting a ration of shit, perhaps you should ask "Why", cause as mentioned above, the shit only comes if they like your potential (and can deal with who you are today).

Mentors dish shit because they wish to understand how you will handle yourself under pressure, and when they do give it they WANT you to come out the other side successfully(Do you think it's easy to find competent potential-partners?). If you come up short in the many small non-life-threatening tests dealt to you, do you think someone will want you around when their life is on the line?

This process serves to wash out those who aren't really serious about learning this new skill, and can't hang with all the shitty aspects of whatever is is they're trying to learn. It also proves a sense of humor in the pupil, which can mean the difference between dealing with a bad situation elegantly, and many other possible horrible outcomes.

It doesn't matter if you're talking about climbing or under-water-basket-weaving, the principle is the same. I MUST know that I can RELY on you in any situation, but it's up to me to make sure that I can before I may let us dance to that music (and what a wonderful tune it is).

So suck it up, you whiny little bitches, :P else you're stuck wondering why you have to pay someone to hang out with you. If you insist on remaining who you are and refuse to grow into something more, why should I waste my time with you?


In summation:
    Rule 32: Be willing and able to deal with whatever's dealt to you, while maintaining a good attitude.
...We want you to succeed, and fear only your failure.


leezerdgirl


Sep 15, 2006, 6:06 AM
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i read the 10,000 rules and had to reconsider whether i'm hot enough for you f*ers

Yeah, this thread did get a bit intimidating, didn't it? No list of rules was intended when I made the original post. No one I know lives up to all this stuff all the time, least of all myself. I just wanted to share some of the things that my lead partners / mentors have requested or appreciated, or things I learned the hard way about being a follower, and make a space for other people to share too.

I learned a lot by reading the replies--thanks everyone!

To stymingersfink, I agreed with a lot of what you've said in this thread but I have to disagree that only people who are or have been trad mentors should be posting in it. I think being a thoughtful follower qualifies someone to comment on follower skills. I hope so anyway, since I'm certainly no trad guru or mentor, and I'm just starting to lead.

To those who said you can attract a mentor by being a girl and / or hot, that's so wrong. Sure, you're kidding, okay, but I wouldn't want any of the guys out there to think it's true. I am a girl and sometimes hot, but my experience is that no leader worth his salt gives a shit about that. I'm lucky that my partners have demanded a lot more of me than that, and no, I'm not talking about leezerd sammies. They demanded that I take responsibility, take initiative, have fun, and learn. And I will be grateful to them until the day I die because of it.


leezerdgirl


Sep 15, 2006, 6:43 AM
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I wanted to say something about the really good point on being clear / honest about your abilities and speed. I've definitely had experiences where I didn't talk with my new partner in advance about speed in particular and ended up feeling bad for holding them back.

I also think it's really easy to have misunderstandings about this stuff even when you're trying to be honest, so it's important to talk about it in enough detail that you know you're on the same page. For example, I told one new partner I was comfortable following up to 5.9. To me, that meant I could promise I'd be able to get up anything 5.9 or under, but that was my limit and I might not be able to get up anything harder. To her, "comfortable up to 5.9" meant that 5.9 was not terribly challenging for me, and that I could do things in the 5.10 or maybe 5.11 range with a little more effort.

Also, it's worth noting for the umpteenth time that gym climbing and outdoor climbing scales do not equate, so someone new to outdoor climbing should be very explicit if they're talking about grades they've done in the gym. It reminds me of a scene in a movie where the guy says "I've logged 2000 hours of flight time" and takes over flying a plane without ever mentioning that's flight time on a Playstation simulator. And then he doesn't know how to work the brakes because he never had to do that on the Playstation. Yeah. Gym climbing is like that.


ter_bee


Sep 15, 2006, 2:34 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
i after i read the 10,000 rules and had to reconsider whether i'm hot enough for you f*ers or would talk too much i thought, "thank GOD i'm learning trad WITH somebody and not FROM somebody." i'm happy to pay for an occasional lesson so long as i can be myself at the crag instead of obeying all your stupid rules.

Actually, that's a reasonable way to learn as well even if a bit longer, though I'd skip the paying part. I personally wouldn't care how good you looked if you were talking constantly - the human A.M. radio thing is one of the few I just can't handle and make no apologies about it. As for the rest, those were "ideal" prereqs and in no way rules. And I personally find the whole "must know how to belay" thing a bit unhinged to be frank- it wasn't and wouldn't be on my list because if you can't belay you shouldn't be trad climbing period - you should be learning to belay and that's a different deal all together. His take on belaying isn't wrong - it's just a odd thing to focus on in this context in my opinion...
thanks, healyje. we only paid a couple of times toward the beginning.

In reply to:
...and the thread goes to s---. oh well. lets see if it can be saved. Perhaps ter-bee should start again from the beginning, as it's better to learn FROM someone than WITH someone.
gonna have to differ on that one.

In reply to:

suggestions, all of it, on how to attract a trad mentor.
...what I think healyje meant..
Now here's why:

First of all, to post you should BE or HAVE BEEN a TRAD MENTOR to someone, 'cause if not your opinion just sounds like some whiny little b---- complaining about how mis-understood they are and why won't someone take you under their wing and show you what they know and you wish you knew, doesn't it?

It is an apprenticeship, and in most apprenticeships the new-guy gets a ration of s---. In fact, if you're not getting a ration of s---, perhaps you should ask "Why", cause as mentioned above, the s--- only comes if they like your potential (and can deal with who you are today).

Mentors dish s--- because they wish to understand how you will handle yourself under pressure, and when they do give it they WANT you to come out the other side successfully(Do you think it's easy to find competent potential-partners?). If you come up short in the many small non-life-threatening tests dealt to you, do you think someone will want you around when their life is on the line?

This process serves to wash out those who aren't really serious about learning this new skill, and can't hang with all the s--- aspects of whatever is is they're trying to learn. It also proves a sense of humor in the pupil, which can mean the difference between dealing with a bad situation elegantly, and many other possible horrible outcomes.

It doesn't matter if you're talking about climbing or under-water-basket-weaving, the principle is the same. I MUST know that I can RELY on you in any situation, but it's up to me to make sure that I can before I may let us dance to that music (and what a wonderful tune it is).

So suck it up, you whiny little b----, :P else you're stuck wondering why you have to pay someone to hang out with you. If you insist on remaining who you are and refuse to grow into something more, why should I waste my time with you?

how's that laxative working for ya?


jcrew


Sep 15, 2006, 3:34 PM
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had to reconsider whether i'm hot enough

In reply to:
what panties?

sounds like you may qualify



In reply to:

To those who said you can attract a mentor by being a girl and / or hot, that's so wrong...... I am a girl and sometimes hot, but my experience is that no leader worth his salt gives a s--- about that.

oh leezergirl.......how innocent.......


larryd


Sep 15, 2006, 3:50 PM
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Re: How to attract a trad mentor--be a great follower [In reply to]
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...

Mentors dish s--- because they wish to understand how you will handle yourself under pressure,...

I've never really tried this pedagogical technique myself, but I understand it was very popular with the Marines.


iamthewallress


Sep 15, 2006, 4:09 PM
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Re: How to attract a trad mentor--be a great follower [In reply to]
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To those who said you can attract a mentor by being a girl and / or hot, that's so wrong. Sure, you're kidding, okay, but I wouldn't want any of the guys out there to think it's true.

The things is...whether you agree that it's the way it should be or not...it's the truest rule on the list.

Since we pay for everything one way or the other, people want to "mentor" for three reasons typically:

1. Sexual ones.
2. No one else will climb with them.
3. You have such great potential that you hardly need mentoring to be their equal partner.

Most folks who are in the "I want to be the best follower that I can be so someone will take me climbing and show me stuff camp" are going to be attracting ongoing regular partners for reasons 1. or 2. If you're in camp 3, then how good of a follower you are is going to be a small part of the big picture pretty quickly.

Of course experienced people will go climb w/ their less experienced friends from time to time, but for the most part more experienced climbers want to go do their more experienced kind of climbing unless one of the above situations applies.

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