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the b.s. ethics of my local routesetter?
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caughtinside


Oct 27, 2006, 2:04 AM
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Re: the b.s. ethics of my local routesetter? [In reply to]
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Holy crap, what does the current Troll rating top out at?
T10 maybe?

Well, we've all seen what can happen with a closed scale. Pretty soon we'll be seeing T10.b, T10c, etc.

Just because it doesn't seem possible now, doesn't mean that future generations won't troll harder, better and longer than we are currently capable of.

:lol:

I don't really know much about the whole Tscale.

But I have heard outrageous claims of up to T15!

I just don't know how that could be if T14 still hasn't been fully solidified.

Yeah, I'm not sure about those claims either. It's one thing to troll in your own backyard, at your local site. But to make a claim like that, you'd probably have to repeat a few classic trolls all over, and troll far and wide. You really gotta have a solid ticklist under your belt before you can push the Troll scale out there.

By the way, can anyone explain the difference between a t6 and a t7?


chossmonkey


Oct 27, 2006, 2:09 AM
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Re: the b.s. ethics of my local routesetter? [In reply to]
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By the way, can anyone explain the difference between a t6 and a t7?
Don't look at me.


I don't rate my trolls. :robert:


veganboyjosh


Oct 27, 2006, 2:18 AM
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[quote="chossmonkey"]
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By the way, can anyone explain the difference between a t6 and a t7?

it's not about chasing the numbers, dude.


coolklimber


Oct 27, 2006, 2:44 AM
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So what you guys are saying is that they only way to set routes is to free climb, or lead?

>Isn't it much more effeient to "aid" the climb?

>Cam


caughtinside


Oct 27, 2006, 2:56 AM
Post #30 of 41 (3408 views)
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By the way, can anyone explain the difference between a t6 and a t7?
Don't look at me.


I don't rate my trolls. :robert:

whoa dude! You just like, blew my mind!

Very Zen, very Zen indeed. Totally detaching the ego from the troll, and trolling for the sheer beauty of it.

:robert:


chossmonkey


Oct 27, 2006, 3:18 AM
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By the way, can anyone explain the difference between a t6 and a t7?
Don't look at me.


I don't rate my trolls. :robert:

whoa dude! You just like, blew my mind!

Very Zen, very Zen indeed. Totally detaching the ego from the troll, and trolling for the sheer beauty of it.

:robert:
There is nothing quite as satisfying as a good troll is there?


caughtinside


Oct 27, 2006, 3:33 AM
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In reply to:
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By the way, can anyone explain the difference between a t6 and a t7?
Don't look at me.


I don't rate my trolls. :robert:

whoa dude! You just like, blew my mind!

Very Zen, very Zen indeed. Totally detaching the ego from the troll, and trolling for the sheer beauty of it.

:robert:
There is nothing quite as satisfying as a good troll is there?

I'll let you know after I chop the bolt that someone put on Double Cross.


chossmonkey


Oct 27, 2006, 3:39 AM
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I'll let you know after I chop the bolt that someone put on Double Cross.
Not if I chop it first!

I can't believe someone would bolt Double Cross, that crack takes bomber gear! :evil:


caughtinside


Oct 27, 2006, 3:45 AM
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I'll let you know after I chop the bolt that someone put on Double Cross.
Not if I chop it first!

I can't believe someone would bolt Double Cross, that crack takes bomber gear! :evil:

I know, I know. But after the deaths, and the multitude of broken legs and ankles, someone decided that climbing should be safe and sunk a bolt down low.


chossmonkey


Oct 27, 2006, 3:55 AM
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I'll let you know after I chop the bolt that someone put on Double Cross.
Not if I chop it first!

I can't believe someone would bolt Double Cross, that crack takes bomber gear! :evil:

I know, I know. But after the deaths, and the multitude of broken legs and ankles, someone decided that climbing should be safe and sunk a bolt down low.
Well then that's okay. It was a dangerous route anyway.


roguetrooper


Oct 27, 2006, 4:47 PM
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Re: the b.s. ethics of my local routesetter? [In reply to]
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I have to agree with kmc. If you want to build a great challenging climb and incorporate hand/finger jams, gastons, knee bars, under clings etc you are going to require the help of fixed ropes and ladders. At 47 yrs old I no longer have the strength and stamina that you young'uns have to be able to lead and set as I go. It takes me between 1-2 hours to set a descent 11+ these days. Am I ashamed? Nah !!!


roguetrooper


Oct 27, 2006, 4:48 PM
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I have to agree with kmc. If you want to build a great challenging climb and incorporate hand/finger jams, gastons, knee bars, under clings etc you are going to require the help of fixed ropes and ladders. At 47 yrs old I no longer have the strength and stamina that you young'uns have to be able to lead and set as I go. It takes me between 1-2 hours to set a descent 11+ these days. Am I ashamed? Nah !!!


roguetrooper


Oct 27, 2006, 4:49 PM
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I have to agree with kmc. If you want to build a great challenging climb and incorporate hand/finger jams, gastons, knee bars, under clings etc you are going to require the help of fixed ropes and ladders. At 47 yrs old I no longer have the strength and stamina that you young'uns have to be able to lead and set as I go. It takes me between 1-2 hours to set a descent 11+ these days. Am I ashamed? Nah !!!


Partner cracklover


Oct 27, 2006, 7:54 PM
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I always set in my approach shoes. That way I can give it the grade it feels like to me without everyone getting all butt-hurt. "Oh, no way is that 5.10, feels more like 5.11+, wah wah wah!" Sometimes I hang the bucket of holds off the back of my harness so I can simulate the right weight shift movements when setting for the lardasses.

GO


sungam


Oct 27, 2006, 8:03 PM
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AHAHAHAHA NOOBS!
When I set routes, I make them REALISTIC!
I slap heaps of glue onto the back, and throw the holds at the wall! where they stick is where they belong.

-Magnus


ja1484


Nov 14, 2006, 5:29 PM
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Re: [mtengaio] the b.s. ethics of my local routesetter? [In reply to]
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[reply]Holy crap, what does the current Troll rating top out at?[/reply]

Damned if I know, but this guy just broke the meter.

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