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The Games Trad Climbers Play-Tales of Boldness
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petsfed


Nov 2, 2006, 7:49 PM
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So we're on the Bastille crack, in eldo, right? Its been years since I last looked at the topo, so I'm fairly convinced that you traverse after the third pitch. So I get the first and third pitches (the third, by the way, is the best 5.7 pitch in the universe) and Jay gets the 2nd and 4th pitches. If anyone has bothered to look at that possibility, its basically the same as starting Outer Space a bit late. Getting onto the route proper is quite difficult, with basically no pro. You pass a few ring pins on Wide Country and a really shitty yellow alien, and then you get to the 10c section. At one point, you're stemming, looking straight down nearly 300 feet to the road. We were moving in a party of three, and our third was none too experienced, so she got the advantage of a rope behind her, clipping the trail line into the pro as she passed it, so if she fell, I could lock her off and she wouldn't pendulum off the route. I did not get such a luxury. Somehow Jay led it quickly enough, but even so, I was in a state of abject horror the whole way across. You know those weird moves you do in the gym on your warm-up traverse that you honestly believe won't ever be used when you're on a rope? Yeah, that was the traverse. The irony of seconding this pitch, of course, is that since its nearly dead horizontal, I can't fall, lest I have to jug up the line to get back to the route itself. Its like leading, except I remove the pro as I go. Finally, I get to the end of the pitch, onto a great big ledge. Like you bivy a Mormon family on this beast. I move the belay up to the next big ledge (not as big as the last, but still pretty big) and we go up this incredibly juggy chimney to the top. A well earned reprieve from the previous pitch. After we walk off the top, we go to Neptunes and check out the guidebook. Boy was I wrong about where the route went.

The next time I did the Bastille Crack, I led every pitch, correctly, including the godawful correct 4th pitch. And I finish on the 5.8 (which felt like 5.7) offwidth variation, which wasn't even that hard with a pack on. Much better that time.


Partner devkrev


Nov 2, 2006, 9:38 PM
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There is a 40 foot slab route at my local area, called Scarecrow, its a 5.7R, the only gear on it is a red alien down low and the smallest aluminum offset behind an expando flake. Its a fun route....thats all I got, I'm not much for climbs in the bowel-control-loss-scariness catagory.

But where I live (Connecticut) there IS a history of nutso crazy leads on garbage gear and tied off hooks and such. Pretty much the leader would climb up the route, set the hook, run a thin cord to the ground where it would be tied off to another piece of gear/tree/person. A lot of work for marginal gear I think, but the folks that did this trusted them, one in perticular machined his own hooks and apparently even pitched the concept to Yvon Chouinard.
I have a guide book that actually gives a gear rating for "bomber hooks"

But all of this passed before I started climbing, and todays praNa clad gym-bred "core" climbers prefer the sterility of a top-rope, rather than striking out on the unknown sharp end, myself included.

Conversely though, too, often I see climbers using the veils of "run-outs" and "manky" gear as a front for not pushing themselves physically.

We have all(mostly) seem to have lost the duality of climbing that was HARD and RUNOUT.
Starting at the bottom, and going to the top.

There is more to climbing than boldness,
There is more to it than monos and deadpoints.
But one thing I know for sure is that I haven't been at this nearly long enough to be spouting such nonsense.


dev


nutstuffer


Nov 2, 2006, 11:20 PM
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First let me say getting hurt climbing is never cool. My advice is climb well protected routes, and you will significantly reduce your chance of being uncool.
There is a 12a route with a 25 ft run of 5.9 to the first bolt. After that it is a pretty standard sport climb, your safe to fall at any point past the first bolt.
The route was climbed ground up. Some may say retro bolt it so more climbers can enjoy the route. Others would chop it immediately. These r and x routes are a testament from those who have climbed them, to what climbing was and can be if you choose. The lack of this risk element, present to some degree in all trad routes, is why some say, sport has no soul.
These routes stand silently awaiting their next suitor. Some climbers are haunted by these routes.


Partner devkrev


Nov 2, 2006, 11:30 PM
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In reply to:
First let me say getting hurt climbing is never cool. My advice is climb well protected routes, and you will significantly reduce your chance of being uncool.
There is a 12a route with a 25 ft run of 5.9 to the first bolt. After that it is a pretty standard sport climb, your safe to fall at any point past the first bolt.
The route was climbed ground up. Some may say retro bolt it so more climbers can enjoy the route. Others would chop it immediately. These r and x routes are a testament from those who have climbed them, to what climbing was and can be if you choose. The lack of this risk element, present to some degree in all trad routes, is why some say, sport has no soul.
These routes stand silently awaiting their next suitor. Some climbers are haunted by these routes.


I'm sorry, but a 25ft runout of 5.9 on a 5.12 ISN'T an R or X rated route. The last time I checked, gear ratings usually meant the gear AT THE CRUX.

Any climber heading up a 5.12 hopefully has no problem with a 5.9 scramble, and any climber that does, needs to go back to the gym. But what do I know, I only climb 5.7R.

dev


cam


Nov 2, 2006, 11:44 PM
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On a trip to North Conway, New Hampshire three friends and I were climbing Sliding Board, in two teams, on the Whitehorse Slabs. I lead the first pitch, all was well. My partner, lets call him Bigboy, lead the second pitch and with little more than 10 feet of rope left at the belay, he reached the anchor and waited for me to come up.

As I'm cleaning the gear, I noticed at one point, a set of anchor bolts very near the line that Bigboy took to the second pitch anchor and thought "Hmm, that's wierd. Don't recall seeing another route so close to this on in the guide book" but i thought little else of it and continued onward to the belay. I racked up for the third pitch, studying a big ass flake that looked like i could get some good pro behind before moving off into climbing that was not visible from the belay. I climbed past the flake, sinking pro and pulled the bulge at the top, working some moves that seemed pretty stiff for 5.6 and came face to face with a section of rock that was so un-slabby and blank it might just as well have been verticle...marble.

I called down to Bigboy, "where am I going?" and he thumbed to he page in the guide book, replying "diagonal up and right". I looked up and right to see that path would take me directly through the "verical" blank section.

Me:" Are you sure? It looks pretty sketchy!"
Bigboy: "just do it. It's like 5.6 or something"
Me: "There's no fucking way that this is 5.6 climbing here!"
Bigboy: "Alright then, what do you want to do?"

It now occured to me that we may be slightly off route so I looked around for easier rock and there to my left was a much friendlier line. Unfortunately, I was somewhat stressed at this point, having believed i was going to have to climb the "verticle" blankness to my upper right.

So I called down "I'm going left!" and Bigboy shrugged his shoulders and let out some slack. Off I went, determined to find pro and an anchor that i thought should be close by. Having climbed through about 20 or 30 feet without placing anything and knowing that I was a good 10 or 15 feet above my last piece when the confusion began I was getting somewhat worried about my potential for a slidey-scrapey fall...of about 80-100 feet.

Well, I looked up and out and I saw them...two shiny anchor bolts, beconing me home. Bigboy had noticed that I had not stopped in quite a while and called up "are you gonna put in any gear up there?" I called down "There's nothing to place, but I see the anchor. I'm just gonna give 'er!"

So off I went, way to far above my last gear to make it of any real use to me, and I zeroed in on those bolts. I got to them, clipped in and got ready to belay, slightly shaken AND stirred. When Bigboy got to the part that gave me such pause, he stopped, studied it, looked at me, then back to the "verticle" blankness and continued up the line I had taken until he reached the belay.

Bigboy: "Yeah, I see what you meant. There was nothing to hod onto"
Me: "Nope."
Bigboy:" What happened? It's supposed to be 5.6!?!"
Nearby climber: "What route do you guys think you're on?"
Bigboy: "Sliding Board"
Climber: "Um, no. You're on Black Jade."
Me: flipping through the guide book to find the topo for Black Jade..." No fucking wonder! How the hell did we get so far off route?!?"

Black Jade is 10c.

Turns out, Bigboy linked the second and third pitches and when passes the bolted anchor that made me wonder what climb it was for, that was our belay. When I left the belay to climb what I thought was the third pitch, I was really on the forth pitch. The path I had burned into my brain took me right over to Black Jade. When I moved back left, I got back on route but then left Sliding Board again when i made a dash for the anchor i saw from below...the anchor on the end of pitch 2 of Wavelength.

What a clusterfuck.

Having survived and getting back to the ground, I was actually quite happy with myself that I had done some 10+ slab climbing.

Good times, good times.


alpinerockfiend


Nov 3, 2006, 12:00 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
A buddy of mine has this theory... name any route -- sport or trad -- in NC and he can tell you why it should reasonably be R or X rated. I've come up with a few that seem to fall outside his theory, but on the whole, I have to say he may in fact be mostly right.

So, this one time I was climbing this route in NC...

Thats funny, I have a similar theory too. This theory especially applies to Ship Rock... if the route is not a crack there its propably R or X rated since most of the routes don't have any sort of pro untill you get oh 25 or so feet off the deck.

What routes specifically are you referring to? I've climbed quite a bit out there, led most everything in the "Select" book through .11b, and haven't ever soiled my shorts! This is without even using that somewhat esoteric piece of NC gear, the tricam. I think it's one of the most protectable crags in the state!


nutstuffer


Nov 3, 2006, 12:20 AM
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R and X ratings may refer to the protection available at the crux, or could refer to any section on the route, and are subjective. I bet two more bolts would triple the traffic on that 12a. The guidebook gives it an X, but I feel its an R.
Getting off route is always a hoot. Good job sending. When I TR sometimes I'll climb the route and then down climb it, to keep my down climbing skills sharp. Down climbing has saved my bacon more than once, and is a great skill to practice while TRing.


brutusofwyde


Nov 3, 2006, 12:55 AM
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"Watch Me!"


MIDNIGHT RAMPEST (5.10d R)
11/27/93


Jaques hails from Switzerland. A 5.12 sport climber,
he sits on a ledge atop "Old 5.10" in Yosemite, California.
He looks down questioningly at Sue, Mike, Inez, and
Sarah who have arrived at the base of the climb.


....."What did he say??"


Desperately clawing a rounded, one-hand side-pull,
my feet scrape loose crystals and scrabble down
detached weathered lichen as I fumble for a quickdraw
and, panicked, snap home into a single, scabbily
oxidized quarter-inch bolt... The only bolt
for a long, long ways. Left forearm fading I slap the
ramp with my other hand, heel-hook/smear the ramp with
a foot just as my left hand peels off the rock, cramped into
uselessness by the horrid demands of the route. Hurriedly
shake out, chalk up, grab for the ramp with my left hand
just as my foot slides away from the face, reset the
quivereing right foot, now my right forearm cramps and
demands attention. So goes each, desperate move.


I perform a metabolic juggling act up a loathsome,
unprotected narrow "ramp" slanting sickly up the
vertical, loose prarie. How do I get myself into these
situations?


Every once in a great while, a brittle, rounded horn
of corrupt diorite erupts from the ramp like a
festering scab. Way, way above the bolt, with
no crack in sight, I give up hope and drape a sling
over one of these horns (immediately regret the
act, as the sling creates a slippery, squirmy surface
on the only foothold within two miles.)


The ramp continues up the now-slightly-overhanging
wall to the left of the Lunatic Fringe, and so do I,
fastidiously painting each obnoxious little diorite pimple
with the pretty stripe of a hopeful runner: HAPPY FACE's
and "HAVE A NICE DAY's" in a morgue.


At one point, I try to envision the vectors of a
fall-generated force applied to these decorations, these
futile gestures in protection. Colorful thoughts.
I begin shaking uncontrollably with fear. Some things
are best left unthought up here.


Jaques, terrified below on the belay ledge, peers
upward 90 feet to the soles of my shoes, now
directly overhead. A single, upward flip of the rope
at this point will unseat every runner on every horn
between here and the ground. The ground, blue and
hazy in the void beneath my sweating, scrabbling,
wimpering self.


Hey. What's this? Somewhere along the useless, mossy
seam at the back of the hand-wide ramp, a 3/4" crack
opens up for a length of five inches.


First I pinch myself, to be sure I'm not dreaming, then
stuff the short opening with every piece of protection
that will fit. I stuff more, draining the rack. The crack
disappears behind a mass of wires, cables, spectra,
carabiners and slings, as I dance up this aesthetic
classic. Wrap my left armpit over another of those
wonderful, solid horns and call for more slings.


Miles away, inconcievably far above, the pitch will end,
after dusk, where a sweet night breeze breathes softly
across the evening walls.


"OFF BELAY!!"


..... "What?"


"Come on up! It's a piece of CAKE!!"


..... "What did he say?"


*******************************************************


112


Nov 3, 2006, 1:03 AM
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My partner and I headed up to Washington Pass to give the old Becky Route (5.6) a go. We cut out the appropriate section from the Washignton State guide and stuffed it in a pack. We figured that was all the beta we needed!

We were worried about crowds so we started hiking around 4:30 am. We made the left up the hill towards the backside of Liberty Bell. Everything was great. We hadn't seen a person yet. It was a perfect day.

We started up the gully and periodically would stop to determine where we were and move on accordingly. We kept going back and forth about which formation was Liberty Bell. We were never positive about which formation, but just kept hiking hoping for the best.

We hiked all the way up to the notch. This had to be the right notch. But, we couldn't find the start to the route. We hiked back down a little, to the base of the backside of Liberty Bell, pulled out some food, and proceeded to eat and read.

Still we couldn't agree on the start. I kept saying lets just head straight up and see what we find, but my partner was pretty sure the route was to our left. I liked the route to the left, as it was an obvious line, but I wasn't sure if it was the Becky Route.

My partner convinced me that it was the Becky Route, I agreed, and off I go on the 4th class first pitch. Putting in peices just to be polite, I started up thinking it was going to be a breeze, but quickly I realize I can't go the way we planned, or rather I was too scared to. So I found a easier way around. The route imediatley becomes runout and I am experiancing a lot of rope drag. I ascend a little higher and to the left and set a 1 peice belay anchor (#4 camolot).

My partner comes up and I appoligize for not finishing the pitch but the rope drag was just too much. So I take off on lead again. I descend down and to the right and begin to climb the runout section. A good 30 foot of climbing before I finally got a peice in. It was bomber. Life is good, and we are back on route.

I reach the next belay. My parnter comes up and we talk about the pitch. We thought it felt more like 5.8 than 5.6, but I guess its alpine! Finally it was time to turn over the lead. My partner decides that I am doing so well that maybe I should keep on leading. I agree and waste no time; back on lead.

We checked the topo. It seemed obvious the line avoids the difficult climbing by side stepping to the left, but just exactly were to step left we are unsure. I climb up. I climb down. I look around the corner, then finally I say "I see it, but it is a little run out". I place a peice 2 feet off the belay, downclimb, then head out on some thin nobs, up about 15 feet, then finally a cam. I think to myself, "I would have mentioned these runouts in the route description. This ain't the best route for a beginer".

I climb to the next belay. Build an anchor and yell "off belay". I think to myself, "I don't care what my partner thinks, but he is getting the next pitch!" Next thing I hear other climbers, but I can't see them. My partner arrives at the belay and comments on the spicy start and agrees that this feels a little harder than 5.6.

We pull out the topo again and agree were the route goes. My parnter is motivated and racks up for the next pitch. He starts off but imediatley backs down. Then he tries another way. Nothing is to his liking, gear wise. There is this kinda flake were you can get a cam in, but it doesn't look great. He mans up, pulls the move, gets more gear in, and proclaims "wow!".

While belaying I finally catch a glimpse of the other climbers, and they are moving out! Like 3 pitches to our 1. Right then I know for sure. We are NOT on the Becky Route, they are. Not really wanting to know for sure, I called over to them, "what route are you on". And clear as a bell I hear, "we're on the Becky Route". Without saying a word to each other, my partner and I simultaneously thought to ourselves, "I hope we're though the crux."

We crused the last 2 pitches and began our decent down the rappel gully. Got to our packs, ate some lunch, and got in line to do the real Becky Route. Which for sure felt more like 5.6. We hiked back to the car, drank some beers, and pulled out a different guide; the Becky Guide.

And lerned that we had just climbed Sidewinder a 5-pitch 5.9. Damn That was a good time! (I am not sure if that qualifies as an on-site though)


nutstuffer


Nov 3, 2006, 1:06 AM
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Well written, nice job, Midnight Rampest. I am jealous, good story. Don't you just love those old buttonheads bolts on some R routes.


braaaaaaaadley


Nov 3, 2006, 6:04 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
A buddy of mine has this theory... name any route -- sport or trad -- in NC and he can tell you why it should reasonably be R or X rated. I've come up with a few that seem to fall outside his theory, but on the whole, I have to say he may in fact be mostly right.

So, this one time I was climbing this route in NC...

Thats funny, I have a similar theory too. This theory especially applies to Ship Rock... if the route is not a crack there its propably R or X rated since most of the routes don't have any sort of pro untill you get oh 25 or so feet off the deck.

What routes specifically are you referring to? I've climbed quite a bit out there, led most everything in the "Select" book through .11b, and haven't ever soiled my shorts! This is without even using that somewhat esoteric piece of NC gear, the tricam. I think it's one of the most protectable crags in the state!

At ship... routes like the gumfighter, the anguish of captain bligh, chromium chain, buffalo nickel, and construction job come to mind. I'm not saying that everything is sketchy... i'm just saying that alot of it is especially if you are like me and not solid at leading at the higher grades. I am also sure that there are more crags in NC that are even more sketchy than ship rock. I only mentioned the area because it is a good example of the ethics that are in place at NC crags.


Partner cracklover


Nov 3, 2006, 3:53 PM
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Great stories!

GO


alpinerockfiend


Nov 3, 2006, 4:44 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
A buddy of mine has this theory... name any route -- sport or trad -- in NC and he can tell you why it should reasonably be R or X rated. I've come up with a few that seem to fall outside his theory, but on the whole, I have to say he may in fact be mostly right.

So, this one time I was climbing this route in NC...

Thats funny, I have a similar theory too. This theory especially applies to Ship Rock... if the route is not a crack there its propably R or X rated since most of the routes don't have any sort of pro untill you get oh 25 or so feet off the deck.

What routes specifically are you referring to? I've climbed quite a bit out there, led most everything in the "Select" book through .11b, and haven't ever soiled my shorts! This is without even using that somewhat esoteric piece of NC gear, the tricam. I think it's one of the most protectable crags in the state!

At ship... routes like the gumfighter, the anguish of captain bligh, chromium chain, buffalo nickel, and construction job come to mind. I'm not saying that everything is sketchy... i'm just saying that alot of it is especially if you are like me and not solid at leading at the higher grades. I am also sure that there are more crags in NC that are even more sketchy than ship rock. I only mentioned the area because it is a good example of the ethics that are in place at NC crags.

I agree to some extent (i.e. gear may not be as straightforward to place as a route w/ a vertical crack system), but I think sketchy routes are more the exception than the rule at Ship. I'd argue that the vast majority of the routes out there are extremely protectable. To name a few: Edge of a Dream, Lost at Sea, Amputee, Boardwalk, Linn Cove Lullaby, Airlie Gardens, Bog Man, BM direct, Harpoon, even Anguish protects great w/ thin gear....
I'm not trying to be disagreeable. I just don't want a fledgling NC trad leader to read this thread and think that Ship is a poor place to hone his/her skills. I think it can provide the moderate trad leader with great learning experiences.
If you're ever looking for a partner in Boone, let me know!


braaaaaaaadley


Nov 4, 2006, 3:54 PM
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I guess I understand what you are saying. As far as the partner thing goes, I wish I was alot closer than 8 or so hours... but if I'm ever in the area i'll definetly drop you a line.


sungam


Nov 4, 2006, 4:47 PM
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These stories are great! keep them coming guys!

Here's a great story my friend, mentor, and math teacher Robert Durren told me.
He was climbing the 1938 (I think that's the right numbers :P) route on the north face of the eiger. He and his partner, the late brendon murphy, had been pinned down in a storm, and although they had kept moving, the had been on the wall for almost a week. Food had run out. Water had run out. Energy had run out.
Rob was leading, they were so close, already above the exit cracks, on the final ice ramps. It was late, he hadn't eaten for more than a day, and could only eat snow for water. Wack wack, step step. His head tipped forwards, and he realised he was uncontrollably falling asleep.
He fought to remain concious. He threw in a srew, clipped in and called safe. climb whe ready. Brendon came up, and lead on, obviously very tired. A short while later the words echoed down. Safe. climb when ready. He had nothing left. That was it. His energy store had completely ran out, he didn't know if he could go on anyfarther. Desperate, he checked in his rucksack, hoping to find something... anything.
Then he saw it. at the bottem of his bag, left over from the earlier days.
The half eaten, smushed, Mars bar was gone in seconds. With renewed energy and high spirits Rob cruised the last pitches, and in no time he was back in the warmth of the hotel, coffee in hand.
Inside joke: back in the warmth of the hotel, coffee in hand, clean pants on

-Magnus


nutstuffer


Nov 6, 2006, 1:36 PM
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NC has a great tradition of bold old school routes. Many routes can be well protected. I recommend getting some atunement to the stone and types of placements, before pushing your onsight limit, but that can be said about any area.
Back in the mid nineties managed to get a day to climb at Looking Glass.
Went to the Nose area by myself, hoping to find a partner, but it was a weekday, so I roped soloed the nose. Weird eyebrows were cool. Looking for pro was like an easter egg hunt. Look under that eyebrow nothing, try a couple more, until you find a cam placement. Cool route.
After I did the last rap, I took a walk and saw hyperbole. It look so good. It made me want to climb it. By then there were some other climbers out, and a guy saw me checking it out, said he would clean it for me.
The route is 10a with a 5.9R run out from a lone bolt. After the bolt you need to get to this crack that takes you up this beautiful dihedral. Should be fun. So this guy gives me the beta, but I don't think he has ever climbed it before, or at least the beta wasn't much help.
Because after I clip the bolt I get run out, standing on two friction holds that feel like two pats of butter. I have to keep resetting my feet while studying the next move. At this point I tell myself this next move is not 5.9 and your off route. A leader fall at this point is for sure going to have some pain involved, as I am certain to fall 35 ft and take a nasty swing into this flake at the base. I tell the guy, I am going to down climb. Every foot I go down, I think cool, thats 2 ft less I am going to fall. I go back down towards the bolt and shake out at a stance. I spot a line of foot placements that traverse straight out to the right. Not the beta, but looks doable, and puts me at the bottom of the crack where I am sure I can put in a piece. This goes fine, but the image of swinging into the flake is with me with every move now. I reach the crack and place a good cam, and send the route. My second does some thrashing, but sends the pitch, too.
After we rap to the base I see these shiny bolts that are a direct route to the crack, that avoids the 5.9 R. So I climbed that too.
Later I thought it was ashame that the direct line had been bolted. I think its 2, 3 bolts, nothing memorable. I am glad I did the original line as it was very memorable. I hope NC's future stays true to it old school roots.
Was talking to a guy months later, about the climb, and sounds like I never did find the normal line on the face to the crack. I heard the bolted direct line caused some debate. I think the original line should have been left alone. Got to be miles of 11.b moves that could have been bolted elsewhere without comprising this beautiful climb. Before the direct line, every climber that was drawn to that dihederal, had to climb that section of R and probably wandered about a little just like I did. The FA could have placed more bolts and eliminated the R, but back in the day, that would have been poor form and over bolting. I think the orginal line was cool, you want the carrot, gotta climb the r first. That is now ruined by the direct line.


ter_bee


Nov 9, 2006, 3:46 PM
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what to do with 2 pound flake I am holding in my hand. My belayer is directly below me, and as far as giving it a fling, At this point I am trying not to roll my eyeballs, to maintain balance. So without hesitation I stick it in my mouth, just like you would the rope at a clip, and start moving. The pump clock is on and I have to top out quick. Then I can safely dispose of my stinking little friend I've got between my teeth, it didn't taste so good.

When my partner of many years cleaned the pitch and joined me at the belay, at first he said nothing, but gave me the look. I knew what that look meant. Half of the gear was probably wishful thinking. After we rapped off, He ask what the hell happened up there, man that looked dicey. After I told him about carrying the rock in my mouth, we laughed it up for the rest of the day.

hahahaha, a rock sandwich.

very fun read and refreshing relief (on page 3) from robsknot and jay. ("wanker! stop criticizing me. moron!") fun stories all round, in fact.

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