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northfacejmb


Nov 19, 2006, 5:35 AM
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My home wall design
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       I am about to build my own wall.



I was wondering if this was a good design in terms of fun and training. I have already bought 6 pieces of 4'x8' plywood, and I have more than enough 2x4's to keep it stable. Let me know what you think.


(This post was edited by northfacejmb on Mar 2, 2007, 6:29 AM)


mingleefu


Nov 19, 2006, 6:01 AM
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Re: [northfacejmb] My home wall design [In reply to]
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Consider painting the cardboard with textured paint for friction.

You'll probably want to use something more substantial than 2x4's for the roof and steep overhang.

If we're talking design of the boards themselves- I would personally take out the roof entirely. They usually get skipped with one big hold and some sort of underclinging hand/foot match move that is totally dissimilar to the rest of the problem. I like the continuity provided by a continuous overhang (even if each board varies by 10 degrees from the last).

I also don't see those two side boards getting used for much other than ridiculous stemming problems. If you have kids, they might be good places to put the alphabet and animal shaped holds, but little else. Maybe I'm just pessimistic.

Where/How hard do you climb? do you lean towards ultra-steep powerful climbs? Slight overhanging delicate climbs? Build the wall to suit your aspirations, and it'll work out best for you.

two cents.


northfacejmb


Nov 20, 2006, 5:34 AM
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Ok, I forgot to mention earlier that I have over 140 feet of 4x4 studs that I'm going to be using for the roof. As for how I climb, I pretty much enjoy all kinds of climbs.

Here are some revised design concepts.



http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._design_4_81119.html


http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._design_7_81122.html



http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._design_6_81121.html


http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._design_8_81123.html



http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._design_5_81120.html

It's still scale to 1'=1". Tell me what you think.


(This post was edited by northfacejmb on Mar 2, 2007, 6:29 AM)


mingleefu


Nov 20, 2006, 6:48 AM
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Re: [northfacejmb] My home wall design [In reply to]
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 I like it. Do you have 20 vertical feet in which to install this bad mofo?

Another consideration: while you now have some good height, the width is a bit lacking. I'm a tall guy and will traverse 8 feet in one decent reach. Average height folks will traverse the same in one BIG move. Since you said you have 6 sheets, would space permit you to make the wall 12 feet wide? you'd end up with a 12' x 16' wall. You could still stack four sheets tall, with the 4th being the near-horizontal roof, and then put the other two sheets on the side... like this...

(quick 3-minute MSpaint image...)

really wish we could post photos...*sigh

put a header over the roof with a 2x10 so you can mount finishing holds there. You're already looking at being 12-16' off the floor, would you really want to fall from higher than that?

Good luck with the project.


(This post was edited by mingleefu on Nov 20, 2006, 6:49 AM)


northfacejmb


Nov 20, 2006, 5:03 PM
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I have all the space in the world to build this wall. I am building it outside, so that in the future It won't be hard to add on to. I was thinking about saving the last 4x8 and maybe use it to make some wall features later. I can always add it when I'm finished and make the wall 12' wide. Thanks for your comments, they really helped.Wink

In the future I might decide to make the whole thing taller, and make it a short lead route.


slopjop


Nov 20, 2006, 5:15 PM
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Re: [northfacejmb] My home wall design [In reply to]
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great design on your wall!
here's my wall that i just finished.
i used texture paint and i love it. i've been having so much fun on this thing.
http://static.flickr.com/...9_7b215831d8.jpg?v=0


(This post was edited by slopjop on Nov 20, 2006, 5:20 PM)


sidepull


Nov 20, 2006, 5:43 PM
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Re: [slopjop] My home wall design [In reply to]
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In reply to:
great design on your wall!
here's my wall that i just finished.
i used texture paint and i love it. i've been having so much fun on this thing.
http://static.flickr.com/...9_7b215831d8.jpg?v=0

sweet paint job!! very cool.


slopjop


Nov 20, 2006, 6:00 PM
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Thanks homie! here's the progress from start to finish:
http://www.flickr.com/...s/72157594297654402/


rocknice2


Nov 20, 2006, 8:01 PM
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Re: [northfacejmb] My home wall design [In reply to]
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Your design looks good. If your thinking about leading on your wall 2x4's definitly won't be enough. The whole structure will need to be cemented into the ground so it will not tip over.
IMO do away with leading. 86 the top panel and make a cave. This can easily be made self standing.
Start by making a floor box that prevents the bottom of the walls from sliding out. Then build your pyramid [minus 1 wall] inside this box. Finally cap it with a roof.
I used 2x4's on the walls and 2x6's on the roof. The dimensions are 15' wide 15' deep and 8' high.
Attachments: Cave 001web.jpg (25.5 KB)


northfacejmb


Nov 20, 2006, 10:59 PM
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I have made some more changes to my design. I don't think that I'm going to make it a cave. I reconsidered having the roof 12' in the air, now the roof is only 7.5' in the air. Here are the pics.



http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Indoor/home_wall_design_10_81213.html

Over all i thought this design was better. Tell me what you think.


(This post was edited by northfacejmb on Mar 2, 2007, 6:38 AM)


nevenneve


Nov 28, 2006, 11:44 AM
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You might need to reconsider, seeing as this will be bouldered on. I believe the divining maxim relates to stacking pads thick enough to eliminate the first two moves. Not trying to be smart, just a piece of visualization most people miss.


northfacejmb


Nov 28, 2006, 5:34 PM
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I couldn't make out exactly what you were saying. What should I reconsider? Thanks for your comments.


nevenneve


Nov 30, 2006, 12:40 AM
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I think that you should retain your original wall height. Say you are 6' tall, plus the height of the pads. Unless you plan on making it so you can top out or plan on locking off the last move past your chest, you will only be what 4'-5' high with your feet. Just trying to once again explain that when dealing with limited space you need to take measures to have it continue to stay fun. It is quite feasible, maybe you won't, to stack multiple pads under one area while it is being worked.


northfacejmb


Mar 1, 2007, 6:42 PM
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Well, after a freezing winter I have decided to build my wall inside. I'm planning on building it in the garage which is 9ft tall. my plan is to start off with a 4x4 pannel at 70 degrees. then a 6x4 pannel leading to a 4x4 roof then another 70 degree 4x4 section. to the left of all this will be a 8x6 wall at 70 degrees. here are some pictures. oh and its still scale to 1'=1".








(This post was edited by northfacejmb on Mar 2, 2007, 6:30 AM)


bustloose


Mar 1, 2007, 7:15 PM
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no disrespect dude, but you won't get much benefit from over half of the that wall design.
if you're using it to train, then you need to keep it simple. a 45 degree section, and beside it, maybe a shallower section, 30 degrees or so. a roof will never get used. vertical bouldering? pointless.

if you have the space and the know-how, you can have a section that has a change in the angle, but keep it minor.

i've seen enough home walls and gyms to know what falls under the category of "that'll be SWEET"... and never be used.


northfacejmb


Mar 1, 2007, 11:19 PM
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so are you saying that i should ditch the roof an just go 45? i don't have any more vertical space than is on the model so i can't get alot done with 70. The reason i chose to have soo many angles and verticle sections is that i have the materials to do it. I'm still goin to have 54^2 ft of 70. I just figured that it would be better to have a roof 6ft off the ground than to have a 9 ft roof on the ceiling. oh, and i fogot to mention that the 70 will be adjustable so it will be able to be 45.


northfacejmb


Mar 2, 2007, 5:17 AM
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which is better 70 degrees or 45 degrees? or both


miavzero


Mar 2, 2007, 5:39 AM
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A couple winters ago I trained on a friend's wall that was a 10ftx12ft piece braced at 50 degrees beyond vert. The wall had a 2ft kicker plate with foot jibs and a sanded 2''x6'' top out rail screwed to the bare rafters at the top of the wall.
Walls less than 30 degrees overhanging are nice to have, but don't offer as much value if you are building under an 8ft ceiling or have don't have traversing space.


northfacejmb


Mar 2, 2007, 5:43 AM
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30 meaning almost straight up or almost horozontal?


unrooted


Mar 2, 2007, 6:12 AM
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If I had the money and space I would build a 16' tall wall, starting with a 1 foot vert kickboard, 10' tall 45 into a 6 foot vert or just less than vert headwall. It is very similar to the one nels rossassen has at his house (i've seen pics in a mag), and a slightly bigger version than a friend of mines. 45 will make you strong, and pulling a lip is typically the crux outside on steep sport and boulders.
It is a super simple design, and would be similar to the steep stuff at the front in salt lake city, you'll get super strong climbing that.
------------------- ___
----------------- /
------------------/ 6'
-----------------/ ____
----------------
------------- l
---------- 10'
-------
--- l
- l
l-------10'----l _______


(This post was edited by unrooted on Mar 2, 2007, 6:21 AM)


northfacejmb


Mar 2, 2007, 6:15 AM
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so should i do away with the roof and just go 45 then 70 (70 being like this / )


miavzero


Mar 2, 2007, 6:17 AM
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thirty degrees past vert means closer to vertical than horizontal (gently overhanging compared to a cave)


unrooted


Mar 2, 2007, 6:24 AM
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I cannot get that thing to work, but anyways andy raether says he built a 45 and put pounds of back muscle on in less than a year, but he's a mutant freak. But it will get you stronger.

Where do you live? I have about 200 holds I should probably get rid of, I do of course dream of building a sick wall myself though so I keep em sitting in a couple of boxes in my tiny garage.


northfacejmb


Mar 2, 2007, 6:26 AM
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i have about 130 holds. i only bought about 20 of em, the rest i either made with resin or drilled holes in rocks. But i definatly wouldn't mind taking a few holds off your hands Wink


unrooted


Mar 2, 2007, 6:31 AM
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how did you drill the rocks without breaking them? I have found several cool rocks that would be great holds, but they broke as soon as I tried to drill them, I wish I would have just tried to make molds of them instead,
Anyways where do you live at, cause them bitches are heavy, almost a pound per hold, and thats for a medium sized hold.

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