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zakadamsgt
Dec 4, 2006, 2:58 AM
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So today didnt go as planned. I really have a hard time accepting climbing days such as these. First, my partners took their own sweet time getting breakfast this morning, and we didnt get to the crag until 11:30. My two partners brought along 2 extra climbers (actually they were boulderers) which neither had a harness. So 4 climbers and 1 rope = slow climbing. I wanted at least 5 routes today. I just got so frustrated. The second route I got on was an 11c that really got in my head. I got frustrated as this tag along guy kept yelling beta from below. It was reallly annoying. Anyways, I really hate when I get in my head when I climb. I was all into my expectations about what I was going to do today, an it all got blown to hell. To add to all this, I didnt bring enough warm clothes and was freezing! Anyways, I blew the onsite of the 11c, and was so sketched out, that I TRed it and sent it. I just packed up and left after that. So 10 hours and 2 routes. I'm very frustrated. Has anyone else experienced this? Looking for a solid bounce back next weekend....
Peace
Zak
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gowser
Dec 4, 2006, 3:30 AM
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well, i guess you could look on the bright side. it snowed here this weekend and i couldn't get any routes in.....
but, i know what you mean. next weekend just invite one person with similar goals out and you will be able to accomplish a lot more of your weekend's climbing goals. it's always hard to get all the routes in that you wanted when too many people "tag" along.
cheers
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saxfiend
Dec 4, 2006, 3:37 AM
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A bad day at the crag is better than a good day at (fill in the blank) . . . Don't get so worked up!
I really had my sights on a particular lead at Tallulah Gorge today and didn't get to do it, things just worked out that way. But it was great weather, I did another nice lead and Mescaline Daydream will still be there next time. So it was a good day!
JL
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tradmanclimbs
Dec 4, 2006, 3:39 AM
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climbing with a posse usualy sucks..........
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tribaltalon
Dec 4, 2006, 3:47 AM
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i like having groups of 3, so that everybody gets a chance to rest, instead of constantly climbing or belaying. if its 4, screw it, break up into groups of 2, because i hate having to wait for 3 people to climb. lol.
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fancyclaps
Dec 4, 2006, 3:48 AM
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I cant tell you how many days of climbing I lost this summer because people got drunk the night before, or they woke up and just didn't feel like climbing.
So to echo someone else, a bad day at the crag is better than no day at the crag. With roped climbing for the most part, we have to rely on partners, and rock climbing partners, like anyone else in life, will let you down. So you either find new partners or just learn to live with some crappy days. Anyway, I hope next weekend works out better for you and no boulderers show up to mess up your sport climbing!
(This post was edited by fancyclaps on Dec 4, 2006, 4:59 AM)
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ihategrigris
Dec 4, 2006, 4:49 AM
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zakadamsgt wrote: So today didnt go as planned. I really have a hard time accepting climbing days such as these. First, my partners took their own sweet time getting breakfast this morning, and we didnt get to the crag until 11:30. My two partners brought along 2 extra climbers (actually they were boulderers) which neither had a harness. So 4 climbers and 1 rope = slow climbing. I wanted at least 5 routes today. I just got so frustrated. The second route I got on was an 11c that really got in my head. I got frustrated as this tag along guy kept yelling beta from below. It was reallly annoying. Anyways, I really hate when I get in my head when I climb. I was all into my expectations about what I was going to do today, an it all got blown to hell. To add to all this, I didnt bring enough warm clothes and was freezing! Anyways, I blew the onsite of the 11c, and was so sketched out, that I TRed it and sent it. I just packed up and left after that. So 10 hours and 2 routes. I'm very frustrated. Has anyone else experienced this? Looking for a solid bounce back next weekend.... Peace Zak
totally know what you mean; I hate climbing in groups. The best day climbing is me and my partner, knocking off as many routes as possible :D. That being said, the worst day climbing is better than the best day at the office!!
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phugganut
Dec 4, 2006, 5:21 AM
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Next time that happens, as simple as it sounds, just go with it. It's all about the attitude. I used to get fixated on certain goals and numbers and expectations and such. But really, enjoying yourself is often just a matter of choosing to enjoy yourself. You can choose to have fun climbing 2 routes or you can choose to be unhappy at not climbing 5. Not that you shouldn't have goals, but don't let your goals ruin a day on the rock. You'll get your 5 routes in soon enough.
For example, recently 2 friends and I attempted El Gigante in Mexico. We prepared for weeks, drove all the way into the Sierra Madre, spent lots of money, scouted it out and got all the beta we could, and finally made our push. We had to make it to the 14th belay to bivy for the night. When it became clear that we weren't even going to come close (due to a multitude of issues) we bailed, but we did so with smiles on our faces. To get out we had to bushwhack through extremely rough terrain for 2 days with barely enough food or supplies. However, what could have been a miserable slog became a fantastic adventure with lots of fun and great memories, due solely to our attitude.
So anyway I'm sorry if it sounds cliche, but the next time that happens just roll with it and choose to have a great day. It just might make a bad experience into a good one. Then you can post on this site about how you did a couple of stellar routes, met some interesting new people, and had a great time in the great outdoors. It's all up to you. Just my 2 cents.
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lena_chita
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Dec 4, 2006, 2:23 PM
Post #9 of 26
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I hear you. We've had days like this.
But oh well, like everyone else said, at least you were out there climbing.
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markc
Dec 4, 2006, 2:48 PM
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phugganut wrote: Next time that happens, as simple as it sounds, just go with it. It's all about the attitude. I used to get fixated on certain goals and numbers and expectations and such. But really, enjoying yourself is often just a matter of choosing to enjoy yourself. You can choose to have fun climbing 2 routes or you can choose to be unhappy at not climbing 5. Not that you shouldn't have goals, but don't let your goals ruin a day on the rock. You'll get your 5 routes in soon enough.
I agree. Once it was clear that your original plan was shot, you only had a couple of options. You could have bailed on the day and not done any climbing, climbed while pissed over your original expectations (investing energy in being upset isn't going to improve your climbing), or you could have adjusted your expectations and made the most of it.
Did your partners know your goals up front? If your partners knew there would be so many of you, why didn't anybody bring another rope? A shortage of gear seems to be a bigger issue than anything.
I was in Colorado this summer, and went to climb the third Flatiron with a friend. When we found out it was closed due to nesting falcons, we were disappointed. Due to the nature of the route, we only brought a small amount of gear. We weren't comfortable with other routes given our amount of pro, so we made the most of hiking that day. The day is what you make of it. You can learn from disappointments (clearer communication next time, maybe bringing a spare rope, etc), but you shouldn't let it ruin the day.
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redpoint73
Dec 4, 2006, 2:55 PM
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In reply to: Anyways, I blew the onsite of the 11c
Well, I guess your tag-along already blew the on-site for you by yelling up beta. Some people seem to love yelling constant beta regardless of whether the climber wants it or not. Most people with etiquette will ask you "do you want beta" before spewing. Personally, I usually wait until the climber is hanging and visibly having trouble before I even ask.
Politely telling the unwanted beta-giver you don't want any beta, and that you enjoy figuring out the moves yourself will usually quiet them.
Sounds like the tag-alongs were not part of the original plan. But bringing along an extra rope will certainly help next time. My group usually brings way too many ropes. The worst that will happen is that you leave the extras in the car. Of course, harnesses would have helped. too!
In the end, we are all going to have plenty of days that don't meet our expectations, and some that exceed them. It all evens out in the end. Although I agree that 2 routes in 10 hours is pretty darned slow. I assume you are including drive time. In any case, on days where a big group slows you down, just try to enjoy the surroundings and the company.
(This post was edited by redpoint73 on Dec 4, 2006, 2:56 PM)
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jmeizis
Dec 4, 2006, 3:12 PM
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Trust me it could always be worse. Try driving six hours, sleeping in a sub-compact car, and then having your partner freak out when she sees the lakeside cliffs your climbing and you end up hiking instead. I find when I go with a group that is larger than just me and my partner my expectations have to go down a lot unless everyone has expressed the same goals as me. You always have to look at your goals and the rest of the teams goals and if they aren't the same you either need to lower your expectations and accept it or find some other people to climb with.
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overlord
Dec 4, 2006, 3:19 PM
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dont worry about it, it happens.
and for the record, i strongly dislike climbing with more than 2ppl per rope. it just takes so much more time.
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perionychium
Dec 4, 2006, 4:35 PM
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Don't fret, it could be a lot worse. At least you were able to climb.
I was all set to climb this weekend. I mean, my climbing buddy was literally parked right outside my apartment. Then I got this sneaky phone call from work with my boss asking, "Where are you?"
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ranther
Dec 4, 2006, 4:39 PM
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overlord wrote: i strongly dislike climbing with more than 2ppl per rope. it just takes so much more time.
I agree with this. It can take so long for your turn especially if you are with some hang doggers. But I have learned to chill as best I can because these situations will occur.
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wyrdrocks
Dec 4, 2006, 5:05 PM
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My partner and I had 2 bad weekends in a row. We were hoping to finish off the season before he left and things just started going bad. The first weekend we both had bad lead-head, pulled out a .10b after a few tries, but it was nasty, ended the day playing around on a few .8's. Then the second weekend, we wanted to try some new spots, and ended up hiking around for about 4 hours before doing a single climb (.9), and calling it a day.
I still maintain, any day on the rocks, is a good day.
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shakylegs
Dec 4, 2006, 5:35 PM
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markc
Dec 4, 2006, 6:45 PM
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ranther wrote: overlord wrote: i strongly dislike climbing with more than 2ppl per rope. it just takes so much more time. I agree with this. It can take so long for your turn especially if you are with some hang doggers. But I have learned to chill as best I can because these situations will occur.
I've seen the reverse, which is equally bad: Groups that rig more lines than they can possibly climb at once. If you have the crag to yourself or you're willing to trade lines, I can live with it. Otherwise, it sucks.
As far as group size at a single-pitch destination, groups of 2 - 5 is my usual preference. Sometimes the pace with two seems a little hectic, as there's little time to rest between climbing and belaying. More than that becomes as much about hanging out as it is climbing. That can be cool, too.
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gochubug
Dec 4, 2006, 6:49 PM
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redpoint73 wrote: Well, I guess your tag-along already blew the on-site for you by yelling up beta. Some people seem to love yelling constant beta regardless of whether the climber wants it or not. Most people with etiquette will ask you "do you want beta" before spewing. Personally, I usually wait until the climber is hanging and visibly having trouble before I even ask. Politely telling the unwanted beta-giver you don't want any beta, and that you enjoy figuring out the moves yourself will usually quiet them.
That statement is absolutely spot-on! I don't know anyone who wants to hear unsolicited beta shouted at them when they are climbing.
On this site, it's probably preachin' to the choir, but noobs and potential beta shouters who may be reading this thread, take heed. You aren't helping them, you are hindering them. If they want your help they will ask for it.
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artsylady567
Dec 4, 2006, 6:50 PM
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I've had crappy climbing days but there times when I go to the local crag without having too high expectations on what the day might bring.
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overlord
Dec 4, 2006, 6:57 PM
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markc wrote: ranther wrote: overlord wrote: i strongly dislike climbing with more than 2ppl per rope. it just takes so much more time. I agree with this. It can take so long for your turn especially if you are with some hang doggers. But I have learned to chill as best I can because these situations will occur. I've seen the reverse, which is equally bad: Groups that rig more lines than they can possibly climb at once. If you have the crag to yourself or you're willing to trade lines, I can live with it. Otherwise, it sucks. As far as group size at a single-pitch destination, groups of 2 - 5 is my usual preference. Sometimes the pace with two seems a little hectic, as there's little time to rest between climbing and belaying. More than that becomes as much about hanging out as it is climbing. That can be cool, too.
while i do not like more than 2 ppl per rope, i can live with it. and im always willing to share the line i rigged (i also usually pull the rope and just leave the draws; i rarely toprope).
as for hectic pace; you can always decide to take a rest
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markc
Dec 4, 2006, 8:03 PM
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overlord wrote: markc wrote: I've seen the reverse, which is equally bad: Groups that rig more lines than they can possibly climb at once. If you have the crag to yourself or you're willing to trade lines, I can live with it. Otherwise, it sucks. As far as group size at a single-pitch destination, groups of 2 - 5 is my usual preference. Sometimes the pace with two seems a little hectic, as there's little time to rest between climbing and belaying. More than that becomes as much about hanging out as it is climbing. That can be cool, too. while i do not like more than 2 ppl per rope, i can live with it. and im always willing to share the line i rigged (i also usually pull the rope and just leave the draws; i rarely toprope). as for hectic pace; you can always decide to take a rest
There are some crags in my area that are almost strictly toproping. Large groups arriving early and rigging more routes than they can realistically use is an issue here from time to time. A good solution is getting a bit further from the road, but some of these crags have fun routes. In short, it was a personal gripe.
Having a rope for every two climbers is my preference, too. As you said, it permits everyone to climb or belay at once, but doesn't congest other routes.
Rest, eh? I guess with a party of two I can feel lazy if we're not moving through routes. With three climbers resting is naturally built in.
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fluxus
Dec 4, 2006, 8:54 PM
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much empathy here.
Here is the thing, for success oriented climbers good comunication is key. Everyone should know before hand what time you expect to be getting on the first warm-up route. There should be a general plan for the day. Everyone should know that its not cool to just bring people along at the last minute. There should be a discussion (BEFORE going out to the crag) of what the day will consist of, what each climber's goals are, and how it all fits together.
A bad day at the crag is far worse than any day at the office because you don't expect work to be amazing. A success oriented climber who gets shut down because their bone-head friends bring a bunch of punters with them should stop climbing with those people and find more motivated and serious climbing partners. Life is too short to climb with people who don't get it.
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billcoe_
Dec 4, 2006, 9:22 PM
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Good advise out there.
Nice to discuss the days expectations before hand. I once drove the 12 hours to Yosemite to climb 1 route on El Cap with a guy who I rarely climbed with. Despite the fact that I could easily get up 5.11 cracks, and this guy could outclimb me with 1 hand tied behind his back, when we got out of the car and looked at the stone, rubber legs and fear ensued for my buddy.
I tried about everything: reasoning, pleading, begging, crying and yelling -yet was unable to get him to even walk to the base or do the first 2 pitches. We wound up driving home without doing anything. Anything at all, not even a 2 pitch 5.6 on the Apron.
Anyway, we are still friends and occasional climbing partners 25 years later. He still outclimbs me. He had a bad day, like all of us have now and then.
What I find interesting, is that as I get older, I'm just as happy to wander the hiking paths and enjoy the scenery. When I was young, I would want to get on rock so bad my hands would shake, that feeling goes away as you get older.
I remember how it was though, and you have my sympathy!
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