|
|
|
|
socialclimber
Dec 9, 2006, 5:05 AM
Post #1 of 5
(2104 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2001
Posts: 1163
|
This method of knotted cord as passive protection is far removed from what most of us are used to but I got to wondering, has there been times when I could have used these techinques rather than run out due to lack of the right sized gear. There is never a time when I am without at least one spare prussic that could be used like this, and there have been plenty of times when I have already used the only nut/nuts that will fit the slot I want to protect...
So heres something a little different. Tests on knotted cord done at the University of Dresden in Germany. The predominant climbing in the east of Germany is sandstone (ie, the famous Elbsandstein mountains) and the only protection allowed is knotted rope and slings due to the delicate nature of the rock.
Knotenschlingen
http://www.joergbrutscher.homepage.t-online.de/knotene.htm
Placment pix
http://www.gipfelbuch.de/schlingen_legen1.htm
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Dec 9, 2006, 6:38 AM
Post #2 of 5
(2076 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
Great study, leave it to the German's aye?
Sure would make for a lite rack.
|
|
|
|
|
philbox
Moderator
Dec 11, 2006, 3:27 AM
Post #4 of 5
(1989 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
|
gunkiemike wrote: moose_droppings wrote: Great study, leave it to the German's aye? Sure would make for a lite rack. Not if the crack goes wide. Check out the practice for off-width: "The biggest possible knot is to fold a coiled rope in the middle, sling it with a prusik and place it as pro." 
So to climb a full pitch of offwidth I would need 10 ropes to fold in half and ten prussiks.
Eeek.
|
|
|
|
|
el_layclimber
Dec 11, 2006, 4:58 AM
Post #5 of 5
(1959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2006
Posts: 550
|
Very interesting. Seems like in the real world (as is usually the case with manufactured gear as well), the most likely culprit for a placement not holding would be 'user error' rather than 'failure.' Climbed with a German guy a few times who had a set of knots and an oversized chopstick for placing them like bashies.
|
|
|
|
|
|
