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flowin
Dec 30, 2006, 8:42 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2005
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on v4-5....been climbing about 1.5 years....
I need some practice routine to help me get thru...suggestions
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live2climb
Dec 30, 2006, 8:51 PM
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Registered: Jun 29, 2004
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get on a rope, maby?
climb more! Yes
but for 1.5 years your doing well and should not be worried about the grade your climbing, just if your climbing at all. Is all about havin fun not the #'s bud. But it dose feel good to climb harder.
peace
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flowin
Dec 30, 2006, 9:05 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2005
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thinking the same thing....I am not really caught up on the #s, that is what challenges me.
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rico511
Dec 31, 2006, 2:01 AM
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Registered: Apr 7, 2006
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If your not caught up in the #'s and you are stuck on 4's and 5's, which means that they are still challenging because if they weren't you would be at 6's, just keep climbing new 4's and 5's and you will eventually work your way through the grades. I don't think that when some one works through the grades the goal should to be get to the highest grade the fastest way possible and by any means necessary. You should be working on your technique and skills so that when you get to the high grades you don't just rely on your muscles. I also don't think that because just because it's harder makes it more challenging, it is simply because its new.
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granite_puller
Jan 1, 2007, 7:15 PM
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Registered: May 6, 2006
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My own observation is that the 4-5 level is where most people who are of average athletic ability (i.e. not some 14 year old that can crank v5's his/her first time out) get stuck because it is the level that is attainable through climbing a few times a week for a few years. I was also caught in that plateau for a year, and here are what helped me break through: Core strength has been huge. Google gymnastics core exercises, visit poweratheletesmag.com and take a look at some of the exercises there, or go to dragondoor.com and check out their ideas. All of these sites emphasize workouts that stress your core through isometric holds and other movements that really put tons of stress on your entire core (not just your abs like situps, and other exercises) and this will make you a ton stronger. I know that this sounds cliche and people will probably say I am full of shit, but I would estimate that this type of training has made me at least a grade stronger in a couple of months. Another thing that helped me break that plateau is climbing with stronger people. I found that from climbing for a while and developing good technique and some general strength I was actually a lot stronger than i thought. Climbing with people who were better than me was humbling, but it also showed me that my body was prepared to climb things that my mind didnt really think I could. I think plateauing for a while is important because you have to learn technique and movement skills befor you start getting strong otherwise your strength becomes more of a liability than an asset. But once you feel like you are ready to climb harder, I would say try incorporating some strength training into your routine and follow around strong climbers until they will let you climb with them.
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gunksta15
Jan 1, 2007, 10:45 PM
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Registered: Nov 7, 2006
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I was in the same boat that you were, all that you should do is work boulder problems that above your ability level. Try to do some really rad V7 that you love and just work it untill you do it. Then, u will know that you are stronger and know that you are better. I was 14 and did a V6 and thought that i could not pull much harder than that for some months. Then I got outdoors a bunch which getts you stronger quicker, and now not even a year later i decided to try even harder stuff and now i am almost pulling a V10 and have done a bunch of V8, so just try harder stuff and it will get you better. Lastly rest, if you climb hard everyday, your body can't heal and become stronger
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flowin
Jan 1, 2007, 10:45 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2005
Posts: 120
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that was a very insightful answer, thank you. I believe you are correct, some more core strenth and technique will get me thru it. I also feel it is mental, after I got done the other day I realized I was being mental....thanks for the sites, I needed a good resource for training.
How long have you been climbing?
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granite_puller
Jan 2, 2007, 2:27 AM
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Registered: May 6, 2006
Posts: 28
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I climbed a little growing up but I started climbing seriously about 2.5 years ago.
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humancrashpad
Jan 7, 2007, 7:08 AM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 25
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flowin, I've developed a theory from all the people I've seen climbing and all the times I've "gotten back in shape" in the past 9 years.
When you want to climb harder, your muscles have to be trained to do whatever you tell them.
In short, do lots of awkward moves. Your body will get used to them and develope loads more muscle in those hardly-used places. Then those weird cruxes won't seem nearly so cruxish. Just as a bonus, do lots of hanging on the bar. It'll keep you on the wall longer.
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