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macblaze
Jan 30, 2007, 1:28 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
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So I ruptured by A2 pulley in the first week of December so I have been doing zero climbing (and truth be told zero physical activity besides walking.) Previous to the injury I was climbing twice a week and doing good on overhanging stuff and some nice pumpy routes without much muscle soreness.
I went climbing last wednesday to try out the hand and on Sunday I went back and put a little effort into it: tried some juggy overhanging climbs and some easy leads. Today I am sore. Pec's, triceps, those muscles that band across your ribs...all sore.
So the question is, was 7 or so weeks enough to lose that much conditioning? Just what was happening biologically speaking? Would stretching have helped? Teach me O' knowledgable ones...
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angry
Jan 30, 2007, 1:42 AM
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Without getting into the biology of it (I don't remember, I used to know it), I think it's extremely possible you lost conditioning in that time.
The longest I've ever heard of an athlete tapering is 2 weeks, and with a taper that long, they stay pretty active for the first week.
In myself, I see notable decline in about 2 weeks. After 7, I'd imagine I'd have to start over. Not quite from scratch but it's going to take a while. That initial soreness you feel is probably DOMS, that usually isn't too persistent after you're in shape.
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thomasribiere
Jan 30, 2007, 11:41 AM
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There are different types of soreness : lost of stretchiness, local acidosis, muscular fibers lesions, inflammations, and other ones... I don't know which type(s) is(are) responsible of your pain today.
A muscle is not only a muscle, and a muscle can use different metabolic pathways, so...
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aerili
Feb 10, 2007, 6:37 PM
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Yes, 7 weeks was enough to lose most of that conditioning. No, stretching will not do jack for strength maintenance.
In general, cardiovascular conditioning reverses faster than muscular strength gains, but within 4-12 weeks you will be back at baseline (pre-climbing levels). The more highly trained you are, the sharper the declines will be initially. The more of a couch potato you are, the more it seems apparent you can maintain your general strength levels longer (but I guess that ain't saying much).
Don't go try to hit it like you did the day you last climbed. Detraining is a bitch.
(This post was edited by aerili on Feb 10, 2007, 6:42 PM)
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