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anykineclimb
Feb 15, 2007, 12:22 AM
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One of my favorite things about attending the annual Ouray Ice Festival is seeing all the new gear that manufacturers are coming out with. 2007 did not disappoint as BD unveiled it Viper and Cobra prototypes to be released for the 07-08 year, Grivel had a new axe that should be out the same time also. The most impressive new product, in my opinion, was from relative newcomer, e-climb. Based in Spain, e-climb is coming into the American market with two ice/ mixed tools, crampons and screws. Out of their lineup the Klau screws really caught my attention. Picking on up I found it to be VERY light; you can definitely feel the weight difference in your hand. A 22cm Klau weighs 136 grams; by comparison, a BD comes in at 190. So in a recent trip to Ouray, I was surprised to find the screws at the Shop and HAD to buy one. Here’s my “review”:
The most obvious feature of these screws is the replaceable tip. Yep, REPLACEABLE no more filing on you own or tossing the whole screw out. According to the rep I spoke with, it can easily be done in the field. Every tip had two notches that aid in its removal and replacement. On the hanger or more specifically, the crank arm, is a small notched area that is used to fit into the tip for removal. The new tips have a dry adhesive in it the “glues” itself onto the screw body.
Tip with obvious notches
Hanger crank
Another feature that jumps out at you is the folding handle. Similar to the Grivel Americana screw, the Klau features a folding crank to speed up screw placement. What I like about the crank is it adds a little more torque to placing but easily folds out of the way. I personally feel the crank handle is easier to use the little BD crank. Something else I like about this crank is it can be used similar to the Grivel 360 where you can adjust the angle of the crank to go over features in the ice.
Folded position
Open position
On the ice, the screws went in great. The added leverage of the crank definitely helped to get them in and out. Although not able to fold all the way “in” the crank was still out of the way. The hanger worked just fine with the clip hole large enough to easily hold two biners, even three Camp Nano Wires!
In the ice
THREE biners!
As of now, E-Climb’s gear is available on their website (e-climb.com) and at Ouray Mountain Sports. As far as I know, that will be the only US retailer. The Klau screws come in 10, 14, 18 and cm sizes and retail for $55.
(NOTE: I purchased this screw with my own money and was not told, asked or persuaded in any way to do this review for or by e-climb.com)
(This post was edited by anykineclimb on Feb 15, 2007, 12:29 AM)
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redpoint73
Feb 15, 2007, 2:53 PM
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The removable tip is a very interesting feature. I would be curious to see how they durable they are (if its possible for them to become detached with use).
It reminds me off the equipment used for drilling soil for samples and wells. The lead augers have a removable head, and even the individual teeth can be removed and replaced when they get worn (much larger diameter equipment, of course).
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brent_e
Feb 15, 2007, 2:58 PM
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Finally i found your review! I thought it was in the gear section.
Good overview, Steve. Thanks for posting this.
Best
Brent
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skinnyclimber
Feb 15, 2007, 3:00 PM
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Wow! Ice climbers have some of the coolest toys. Maybe I should start... Oh wait I'm poor!!
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anykineclimb
Feb 15, 2007, 5:31 PM
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skinnyclimber wrote: Wow! Ice climbers have some of the coolest toys. Maybe I should start... Oh wait I'm poor!!
doesn't stop most of us!
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brent_e
Feb 15, 2007, 7:10 PM
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anykineclimb wrote: skinnyclimber wrote: Wow! Ice climbers have some of the coolest toys. Maybe I should start... Oh wait I'm poor!! doesn't stop most of us!
isn't this why we are poor???
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redpoint73
Feb 15, 2007, 7:37 PM
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brent_e wrote: anykineclimb wrote: skinnyclimber wrote: Wow! Ice climbers have some of the coolest toys. Maybe I should start... Oh wait I'm poor!! doesn't stop most of us! isn't this why we are poor???
Yep!
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taino
Feb 15, 2007, 7:40 PM
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Steve,
Thanks for this excellent review.
Apparently, Omega Pacific (or someone else) had, a few years ago, come out with a screw that had a replaceable head; it wasn't well received. In this case, it looks like e-climb did some more homework.
I am curious, though - how did the screw feel, while placing, compared with, say, a Grivel 360 or BD Turbo Express? Not ease of fold-out options, but the feel of the screw going in? I ask because I recently used an OP screw on lead; the one with the screw-handle like the BD Turbo - and it was fucking horrid to place; I had to fight for each turn of the screw, and it was brand-new and sharp. My Turbo Express and 360 screws, OTOH, both went in very easily.
I'm also interested in hearing about durability.
Regardless, again - thanks for the great review.
Cheers,
Tai
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anykineclimb
Feb 15, 2007, 7:55 PM
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Tai,
I dunno if it was just me but it seem to place really easy. Maybe the 2 notches aided the four teeth? I'm not really sure. The tooth angle is exactly the same as BD and Grivel; although Grivel has "bigger" teeth. These place as well if not better than BDs, IMHO
not too sure how much time I'll have left this year to test the durability. Hopefully, I'll get out a few more times!
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jp_sucks
Feb 15, 2007, 8:00 PM
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Thanks for the beta, do you know if I can order them from the Ouray shop online?
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anykineclimb
Feb 15, 2007, 8:12 PM
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I'm sure you can give Bill a call and ask him to mail them to ya. Like I mentioned also, try the website.
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fire_or_retire
Feb 15, 2007, 9:55 PM
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I haven't used them but they're super light. The removable tip blends in with the rest of the screw and has a nice finish. Does anybody know how much the tips cost?
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kixx
Feb 16, 2007, 2:10 AM
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Where did they cut the weight? is it in the alloy they used or are the walls of the srews thinner. It had to go somewhere. I'd like to see an independent drop test on these to see what happens.
Anything that bites like a Grivel is cool with me.
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taino
Feb 26, 2007, 6:39 PM
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kixx wrote: Where did they cut the weight? is it in the alloy they used or are the walls of the srews thinner. It had to go somewhere. I'd like to see an independent drop test on these to see what happens. Anything that bites like a Grivel is cool with me.
The E-Climb.com screws are made primarily from aluminum; the replaceable heads are made from stainless steel, as are - I believe - the hanger and folding unit. This saves a ridiculous amount of weight. However, I, too, would like to see some independent durability testing; I had an aluminum bike frame break into pieces while riding it, but haven't had that happen with steel.
T
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anykineclimb
Feb 26, 2007, 8:52 PM
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Tai,
I don't think they're aluminum. but some steel alloy. When I did a search I came up with this site:
http://www.nkbv.nl/...n%20Hoek/?thread=670 (anyone care to translate?)
But if you scroll down theres a chart that shows the screws are made of "harded steel"
I emailed the company without success on a reply so far.
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taino
Feb 26, 2007, 10:12 PM
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I admit that I'm not 100% sure, but I could have ~sworn~ the guy from E-Climb said they were aluminum. *shrug* Let us know when you hear from them, eh? :^)
T
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brent_e
Feb 27, 2007, 1:33 AM
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taino wrote: I admit that I'm not 100% sure, but I could have ~sworn~ the guy from E-Climb said they were aluminum. *shrug* Let us know when you hear from them, eh? :^) T
the threads would shear off if they were aluminum, i think.
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anykineclimb
Feb 27, 2007, 1:43 AM
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taino wrote: I admit that I'm not 100% sure, but I could have ~sworn~ the guy from E-Climb said they were aluminum. *shrug* Let us know when you hear from them, eh? :^) T
yeah, things were a bit hazy that night....
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kixx
Mar 1, 2007, 12:51 AM
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Yeah, I don't think I'm climbing on anything that is aluminum, after seeing what can be done to an aluminum bike tube.
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maldaly
Mar 1, 2007, 2:37 AM
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In the 80's we made the R.A.T.S. ice screw at Lowe Alpine. It was desinged by Jeff and Greg and used an aluminum tube with a threaded-in steel tip, much like the e-Climb screw. The Klau screw is a beautifully done screw that goes several steps further than the RATS. Removable tip, more sophisticated teeth and a better hanger/eye with a fold-out lever. By the weight of it I'd say that it has to have an aluminum barrel. It's about 30% lighter and there's no other place that weight can come from.
One of the things we discovered with that RATS was that with very little use, the threads along the barrel would get dinged up and over a season of use, even with very sharp teeth, they would get harder and harder to place. This could only have been due to the threqds getting buggered up. This is also present, to a lesser extent, with the BD/OP/Petzl screws. The sharp outer cut of the barrel thread get buggered up during use (in your pack, hanging on your rack, getting dragged over rock, etc.) and regardless of how sharp the teeth are, they get harder to place. That's why my current favorites are the Grivel screws. Take a close look at the thread profile and you'll see that it's rounded off, making it much more resistant to getting buggered up.
BTW, Grivel doesn't talk about this--I'm not even sure they know it's a benefit.
Mal
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kixx
Mar 3, 2007, 5:10 PM
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Thanks Mal - good info
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rjdirtbag
Mar 7, 2007, 8:08 PM
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There is at least one other U.S. retailer; International Mountain Equipment in North Conway, NH is also stocking these screws. I've looked at them a few times but haven't had occasion to try them out.
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tallnik
Mar 12, 2007, 6:07 PM
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The thead looks like it's pretty small. I think Maldaly covered my points as to why I won't buy anything but Grivel. Although I can't wait to see the new BDs
Nik
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marde
Mar 12, 2007, 10:19 PM
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The problem is that there isn't only wear at the tip of the
ice screw.
If the whole screw and the threads are worn screws are harder to place.
The teeth can be sharpened anyway.
So i don't see a real advantage.
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