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nb_boarder16
Mar 9, 2007, 3:54 AM
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I've never been to Yosemite and am heading there this Spring Break for a couple days. I don't have the ability to do any multi-day or aid climbs and prefer 4 or less trad pitches around 5.8 or 5.9. I can obviously look up the most popular climbs, but I'm looking to get away from the crowds and climb something really amazing. I know thats a tall order, but any suggestions?
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climbinginchico
Mar 9, 2007, 4:03 AM
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Nutcracker, After Six, The Grack (Center), try the SuperTaco guidebook.
Be careful though. If you've never been to the Valley it can be a little bit eye opening for a first-timer. The techniques and polished granite have hammered many a Valley n00b.
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fullstottie
Mar 9, 2007, 2:15 PM
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On a recent first trip from the UK to the Valley in 2006 (as an old guy happy now with easier routes) we found if you get up early enough, crowds are not a big deal, at least they were not an issue in late May/early June.
We didn't worry too much about sticking with the well-publicised routes, because they were just too good to miss, unless you can return oftenwhen you caould be more selective.
Shorter routes we enjoyed a lot included After Six, Munginella, The Grack, Jam Crack, Sloth Wall, Nutcracker, and longer routes well worth the time and effort inc. Royal Arches and Snake Dyke.
Whatever you end up doing, I hope its as good an experience for you as it was for us.
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michaelmcguinn
Mar 9, 2007, 2:26 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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Spring Break. Cool.
There will not be as many people there in March. May to September are busy for sure. You will be fine.
Stick to the classics. Do not miss. This early though you will want south south facing climbs. Really.
Get on the Supertopo site and download the Valley Classics Guide.
Michael (lived there for three years)
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dingus
Mar 9, 2007, 2:28 PM
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For a frame of reference there aren't a LOT of really high quality 5.8 and under routes in the Valley, amazingly enough. There are some gooduns and some have been mentioned but pretty much any decent moderate line that's easy to get to with good climbing is going to have traffic.
Hitting them early IS key, or if you're fast and efficient, hitting them late.
If you can get on the Nutcracker you won't regret it. Mostly 5.6 and 5.7 with one or two 5.8 moves, a fantastic lineage (Royal Robbins first ascent, nuts only at the dawn of the clean pro age), cool belays, great views, easy approach and descent, table top flat summit, friendly CROWDS... what more could you ask for.
Oh, for your obligatory 5.8 test piece... Bishop's Terrace. Its over on the sunny side, on the way to the Awhannee Hotel, Church Bowl is the spot. If you can cruise up Bishop's Terrace you're in the money as far as granite crack climbing goes.
DMT
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summerprophet
Mar 9, 2007, 3:39 PM
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Just a confirmation for you that all the advice given so far is really good, although Royal arches is a whole lot longer than 4 pitches.
Be aware that Yosemite climbing takes a bit to get used to, and if you haven't been here before, you may want to drop your grades down a few notches.
Avoid reeds pinnacle area, the routes there are not freindly for first timers, despite the low numbers. And if you decide to climb "after six", do the first pitch of "after seven" and wander over, as this is a seriously easier way.
Munginella and Commitment are quite good, but ask around about the decent, it might be a waterfall during spring break. There is a bolted rap station before the stream, keep your eyes open.
The same can be said for Royal Arches, if you decide to run up this (and your routefinding better be average or better) ask at the mountain shop, the traverse may be uncrossable do to water.
The Grack is good, but would likely be quite chilly while you are there. (take a sweater)
Have fun, remember the bug spray if you arent going to get off the ground right away.
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westbend
Mar 9, 2007, 5:47 PM
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How many days would it take to do the bulk of the above mentioned climbs? Or at least get a good flavor of the area? I am looking at taking some time from a family vacation to do some climbing with my son and want to know how much time would be needed to make Yosemite a worthwhile detour. It can't be the whole vacation as part of the family is not the backcountry type.
This obviously depends on climbing style and other factors. Assume we would be trying to enjoy the experience rather than blast away to get as much done in as little time as possible.
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cintune
Mar 9, 2007, 6:03 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Dude, why hold yourself back? Free the Nose.
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dfoote07
Mar 9, 2007, 6:18 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2006
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Sounds cool. When is spring Break? Mine is in a couple of weeks. I have always heard that there would be a lot fo snow there, but never been there in march. Are you worried about that? I love to hear what the condition are suppose to be. Let us know.
Derek
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summerprophet
Mar 9, 2007, 7:21 PM
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Westbend,
The amount of time taken seriosly depends on your climbing ability and speed. Even the moderate and crowded routes in the valley require a certain amount of rockcraft skill. Comparativly Yosemite climbs tend to be more sustained.
That being said, I have done Nutcracker, After six, after seven, and commitment in a day.
Of course I have spent 9 hours on nutcracker as well with slow parties in front of me.
Most of the approaches are quite short, and the decents well defined. But your speed is really determined by those in front of you.
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zeke_sf
Mar 9, 2007, 7:52 PM
Post #11 of 13
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Registered: Apr 28, 2006
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summerprophet wrote: Of course I have spent 9 hours on nutcracker as well with slow parties in front of me.
9 hours? Geez, were they having a tea party?
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iamthewallress
Mar 9, 2007, 8:07 PM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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Get the Reid guidebook. It's all good. Even the munge. Just add 2 grades for obscurity factor if the route is not in the supertopo and doesn't get bucket loads of stars. Or if its a slab or wide crack. The classics tend to be a little more accessible.
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clintcummins
Mar 9, 2007, 10:48 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
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summerprophet wrote: [gave some excellent advice, but I'll comment on one item] Munginella and Commitment are quite good, but ask around about the decent, it might be a waterfall during spring break. There is a bolted rap station before the stream, keep your eyes open.
Definitely keep your eyes open there, and don't use that rap station - it will deliver you and your rope into the stream. Instead, you can scramble up slightly and cross the stream on soggy grass, then zigzag out about 100' and switchback down on easy 3rd class terrain to avoid the entire cliff and regain the trail below the stream.
You can browse routes and comments at:
http://www.supertopo.com/...html?ftr=5.8&v=1
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