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bizarrodrinker
Mar 28, 2007, 4:07 PM
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Go to the Gunks for lessons. I love the grading scheme there. THere are 5.6 trad routes that are harder than some 5.10 sport routes I have done.
LOVE it!!
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atg200
Mar 28, 2007, 4:16 PM
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wanderlustmd wrote:  My comment had absolutely nothing to do with his level of english. I can't decide if half his posts are trolls or not Like the gem in the community about getting into a fistfight or some such nonsense...
Or perhaps it is just total culture shock. I roll my eyes at a lot of his posts too, but I doubt they are trolls. If what you know about American culture comes mostly from movies, i think its understable to wonder if getting into fights is common(which it is in some parts of the country - fistfights are pretty common in some of the mining camps and bars i've spent time in).
Anyway, bolted routes regardless of gear placements are the norm in a lot of places around the world, and grading systems don't always compare to the US if developers haven't traveled much, even if they use the yosemite decimal system.
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billcoe_
Mar 28, 2007, 7:15 PM
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Miad: we'd love to see some trip reports (especially with pictures) of climbing in Iran. Post them in the appropriate thread.
Take care
Bill
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miademus
Mar 28, 2007, 8:50 PM
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sure dude, I posted some pix on "trip reports" and i am going on another boulder trip to tehran in 24 hours...i'll keep it posting on there.
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miademus
Mar 28, 2007, 11:19 PM
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does that mean a trad rated 5.12 is like a 5.13-14 sport climb?
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bizarrodrinker
Mar 29, 2007, 11:33 AM
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I don't know. I am not that experienced ( I've never climbed a 5.12 anything). I do know that climbing at the gunks is effin great though.
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miademus
Mar 29, 2007, 12:03 PM
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I rally like to climb at the gunks once, great boulder.. you've been a lot there, give me out some info; do you got to pay to climb there,how many sport climbs are there? are the boulders all allike shown in the petzl movie?
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bizarrodrinker
Mar 29, 2007, 1:05 PM
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No sport routes, its all trad. There are some bolted belays and raps though.
A lot of the boulders have nice solid holds and plenty of feet options. More power oriented than technical from what I have seen, but I have definitely not seen all of it.
It costs $15 for a day pass or $85 for the season.
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bizarrodrinker
Mar 29, 2007, 1:29 PM
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There is free camping on a first come first serve basis nearby.
Its about an hour- hour and a half from the city.
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miademus
Mar 29, 2007, 2:08 PM
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thx much thx for the info.
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pyrosis
Mar 29, 2007, 2:44 PM
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Haha that "+" always scares the shit out of me.. Especially at places like Joshua Tree or Granite Mountain, AZ... a "9+" route there would most likely be 10b or 10c or even harder if it were at a modern sport crag.
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lodi5onu
Mar 29, 2007, 3:19 PM
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In reply to: Give miademus a break. His English is better than your Farsi.
who wants to speak Farsi? miademus posts would be rediculous, even if his english were impeccable, based on the subject matter alone
In reply to: I very rarely climb sport routes, but I am more interested in climbing long routes and getting to summits than I am in difficulty or interesting movement.
sorry to hear that, you could open up a lot more possibilities by incorporating difficult trad lines with interesting movement into your repertoire
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dingus
Mar 29, 2007, 3:21 PM
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If I had a dollar for every 5.9+ route I've climbed I'd have like... six bucks!
My experience suggests getting one's partner to lead the 9+ pitch is an effective strategy.
DMT
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granite_grrl
Mar 29, 2007, 3:26 PM
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pyrosis wrote: Haha that "+" always scares the shit out of me.. Especially at places like Joshua Tree or Granite Mountain, AZ... a "9+" route there would most likely be 10b or 10c or even harder if it were at a modern sport crag.
Ya know, there was a route back in Nova Scotia that used to be rated "5.7++", yes two pluses. When the latest addition of the guide book someone wised up and just called it a 5.8.
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atg200
Mar 29, 2007, 5:48 PM
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lodi5onu wrote: In reply to: Give miademus a break. His English is better than your Farsi. who wants to speak Farsi? miademus posts would be rediculous, even if his english were impeccable, based on the subject matter alone
You missed my point. Most posts from non native speakers seem a bit childish and immature. Most of the time it has more to do with a poor grasp of the language and cultural differences than the person actually being ridiculous. I couldn't post on any non-english site without looking like an idiot, so I cut folks some slack if english is clearly not a strong language for them.
lodi5onu wrote: In reply to: I very rarely climb sport routes, but I am more interested in climbing long routes and getting to summits than I am in difficulty or interesting movement. sorry to hear that, you could open up a lot more possibilities by incorporating difficult trad lines with interesting movement into your repertoire
Not really - tendinitis already ruined my music career, and puts a ceiling in how hard I can free climb. Besdies, i didn't make any kind of value judgement on sport climbing being better or worse - I just said it isn't something I am interested in.
In any event, sport climbing would open up possibilities for me in much the same way that high altitude mountaineering would open up possibilities for sport climbers - true in theory, but not in any way that would apply to what one is actually doing. I enjoy climbing desert towers that are predominately cracks and aid climbing, and I like ski mountaineering - and i'm just not particularly interested in other types of climbing anymore. I used to sport climb when I first started climbing 13 years ago, but over time it just hasn't been something I have maintained any interest in.
(This post was edited by atg200 on Mar 29, 2007, 5:49 PM)
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dellochef
Mar 30, 2007, 2:26 PM
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hey miademus
i've been to iran and also to a small gym in esfahan. Sdaly never made it to the rock...
But another point is that iran is quite isolated, not only in climbing matters. That means that a 5.9 might be something way diffrent as it is in the us or in europe. Even in our region the grading differs a lot betwen each crag. Imagine the differences between continents.
Have fun climbing.
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stymingersfink
Mar 31, 2007, 12:47 AM
Post #68 of 71
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granite_grrl wrote: ...a route back in Nova Scotia that used to be rated "5.7++", yes two pluses. When the latest addition of the guide book someone wised up and just called it a 5.8.
Try Center Thumb up in the Lone Peak area (Wasatch). Originally rated 5.7 by Lowe Brothers (FA late 60's i think), now goes at 5.9... a true 5.7++. Those boys could climb!
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rocknroll
Apr 1, 2007, 4:36 AM
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REED'S PINNACLE DIRECT, Yosemite Valley. Say no more
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miademus
Apr 2, 2007, 1:31 PM
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dellochef wrote: hey miademus i've been to iran and also to a small gym in esfahan. Sdaly never made it to the rock... But another point is that iran is quite isolated, not only in climbing matters. That means that a 5.9 might be something way diffrent as it is in the us or in europe. Even in our region the grading differs a lot betwen each crag. Imagine the differences between continents. Have fun climbing.
I see this explains a lot....i believe i heared you were here, didn't you come around last sommer or something?and you bouldered with some guys.
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