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ja1484
May 9, 2007, 6:44 PM
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Perhaps I'm missing something, but how does this operate differently in practice from your typical cordelette?
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wings
May 9, 2007, 6:51 PM
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This knot achieves some measure of dynamic equalization by one of the strands being able to shift through the big knot. However, I've found that the dynamic equalization of this rig to be not that great, as the original poster indicates.
- Seyil
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shockabuku
May 9, 2007, 6:58 PM
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It has no ability to change direction and load share for unplanned directions of loading. I don't see a benefit beyond the basic cordellette either. I guess it's redundant enough in the event of gear failure though I wonder if it would unravel if a line snapped.
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ja1484
May 9, 2007, 6:58 PM
Post #5 of 11
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wings wrote: This knot achieves some measure of dynamic equalization by one of the strands being able to shift through the big knot. However, I've found that the dynamic equalization of this rig to be not that great, as the original poster indicates. - Seyil
So it achieves a measure of dynamic equalization by cord sliding across cord? Nah thanks.
I've never found the equalette terribly difficult to set up.
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reg
May 9, 2007, 7:33 PM
Post #6 of 11
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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i don't see any ability for that setup to adjust to off axis loading - the figure eight knot is meant to lock all strands - none should move throught the wrappings of the knot when tight just like ur standard cordelette with an 8 - better not have tsrands movin through that knot!
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tradrenn
May 9, 2007, 10:11 PM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
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This setup is:
1. Too complicated.
2. Doesn't equalize well.
3. Has a shock load build right into it.
My 2 cents.
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unclebob
May 9, 2007, 11:06 PM
Post #8 of 11
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It would be nice to hear from people who have actually used an equalising figure 8.
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tradrenn
May 10, 2007, 11:27 PM
Post #9 of 11
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Perhaps you are not hearing it cause no one uses this set up for reasons specified in my earlier post.
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rgold
May 11, 2007, 4:02 PM
Post #10 of 11
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unclebob wrote: It would be nice to hear from people who have actually used an equalising figure 8.
If any one thing has emerged from the recent rounds of tests and theoretical discussions, it is that the "people who have actually used" a system, including very experienced ones, do not, in general, know anything about how it will perform such tasks as equalization and often make assumptions that are incorrect. Some of these assumptions can become part of the community's received "wisdom" and persist for decades.
There have been hundreds of posts on such topics, and most of the participants are suffering from battle fatigue. The "equalizing" figure-eight is easy to rig but is, in my opinion, almost certain to do no better than an ordinary cordelette because of the friction of the strands in the knot, while losing the cordelette's virtue of no extension. Looks like lose-lose to me.
For equalizing two-point anchors, I don't think anything better than the equalette will emerge. The equalette on a three-point anchor is better than the cordelette in its ability to respond to different load angles, but does not do any better in terms of equalization. The ultimate solution to three-point anchor rigging has yet to appear.
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trenchdigger
May 11, 2007, 4:19 PM
Post #11 of 11
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rgold wrote: For equalizing two-point anchors, I don't think anything better than the equalette will emerge. The equalette on a three-point anchor is better than the cordelette in its ability to respond to different load angles, but does not do any better in terms of equalization. The ultimate solution to three-point anchor rigging has yet to appear.
I know you've put a lot of thought into these things and I'm curious about what you think of the idea I just posted here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...6;page=unread#unread.
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