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jia
May 24, 2007, 12:30 AM
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NJ DEP ruled against the legalization of rock climbing in NJ. Issues are underweigh here in NJ to address the issue via the legislature in a "Leopards Don't Change Their Spots Campaign"
Contact Access NJ for beta. (www.climbnj.com)
NJ Bolting:
The NJ State Park Service has in place a ban on bolting.
Nothing wrong with this as there are more then a few of NJ's climbing and bouldering areas are over bolted by fools running ape-shit around NJ w/ bolt guns.
Climbers are stewards of the land and we are not doing fragile climbing areas a favor by over-bolting climbing areas. The NJ State Park Service is willing to discuss the issue.
As for people using my name in postings: Go home and watch TV.
ps: do i favor an absolute ban on climbing bolts in NJ, yes. Fixed anchors maybe appropriate. should in appropriate bolts be chopped, Yes.
What is not needed are bolts gone wild in NJ.
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jia
May 24, 2007, 1:14 AM
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climbing is legal in NJ but climbers have to sign a yearly wavier which can be done in any State Park. we attempted to get that rule removed.
a legislative solution is being set.
jia
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healyje
May 24, 2007, 2:00 AM
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Hey, when you head north on the NJ side of the river from NYC there are some beautiful cliffs in a park with either a round or octagonal little cafe - what the hell are they? Stunning looking...
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jia
May 24, 2007, 2:09 AM
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palisades interstate park.
climbing is not allowed.
that would be perhaps state line overlook. some fine bouldering out and along the river, proper. plop and you swim.
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saphius
May 24, 2007, 4:19 AM
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Why do we have so many areas that don't allow climbing :(
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jia
May 24, 2007, 1:56 PM
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Climbing areas on State Lands are open for climbing. Sign the wavier first.
County Parks require activism by climbers.
Local parks need to be developed. Whats the status of any climbing on the local bluffs in Hoboken and or Jersey City.
Private landowners are closing doors because of libility.
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saphius
May 24, 2007, 3:01 PM
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jia wrote: Whats the status of any climbing on the local bluffs in Hoboken and or Jersey City.
If there's climbing, I don't know about it. My instructor and I drive from Hoboken to Allamuchy most of the time (I go to Stevens Inst. and the head of outdoor rec is mentoring me).
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jia
May 24, 2007, 3:18 PM
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the 'much is a fine place to TR and get in a few single pitch leads.
could your local area of the palisades be developed as a very local climbing area ? is there an interest from stevens, etc...
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jgloporto
May 24, 2007, 3:59 PM
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jia wrote: the 'much is a fine place to TR and get in a few single pitch leads. could your local area of the palisades be developed as a very local climbing area ? is there an interest from stevens, etc...
I would personally dedicate time to that effort. Such a perfect spot...
John,
Sending you a PM on a separate matter.
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saphius
May 25, 2007, 12:48 AM
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There's definetly a student interest in climbing. We run several rock and ice trips a year (usually to Allamuchy or the Gunks).
The head of outdoor rec won't be back in the US 'till mid next month (he's on a trip to Tibet). But, I can definetly bring it up with him, forward any information, etc.
It'd be great to have a place close by to run the Outdoor Club trips at and use to teach anchor building, leading, etc.
I just have no clue about the area. I've never even looked around.
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jia
May 25, 2007, 11:41 AM
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nj highlands, green pond.
let me know what i can help w/.
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healyje
May 28, 2007, 11:21 PM
Post #13 of 19
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jia wrote: palisades interstate park. climbing is not allowed. that would be perhaps state line overlook. some fine bouldering out and along the river, proper. plop and you swim.
Any particular reason? This cliffs look like some real quality climbing...
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sween345
May 29, 2007, 12:47 AM
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Joe,
This discussion came up a while ago on gunks.com. It went so far as to speculate on some ascents by Fritz Wiessner.
I don't have first hand knowledge of the reason for no climbing on the Palisades. I would shutter at the thought though of that large a climbing area that close to NYC. The Gunks is only 85 miles or so from NY, and it's getting quite overrun on weekends.
The Palisades Interstate Park Commission does oversee climbing at Minnewaska State Park/Preserve, which is 'round back on the west side of the Trapps,the largest cliff in the Gunks.
Peterskill(the climbing area of Minnewaska)is actually a fine single pitch area, with approximately 100 climbs documented and a decent amount of bouldering. It has the same Gunks conglomerate rock as it's larger neighbor, walkup access to set topropes and they limit the number of daily climbers to 70, limiting the crowding. I prefer to bring my 10 year old daughter and any new climbers there for these reasons.
Sorry about the thread drift. If you want to know more Joe,let me know and I'll PM it. There's lots more going on around there in an evolving climbing atmosphere that maybe we can talk you into visiting.
Jim
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al_piner
May 29, 2007, 1:59 AM
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"healyje wrote: Any particular reason? This cliffs look like some real quality climbing...
A big slide in 1939 can be seen here :
http://www.lostinjersey.com/woods/hitler.html
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jia
May 29, 2007, 12:45 PM
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would second them comments on the cliff being unstable.
back some years ago did the road runner style of climbing when the crack we was on expanded as we did a jam and then the cliff started to shake. we beat feet quickly.
the rock is basically pillars stacked and laying on top on one another. the cliff is very unstable.
there be some places for top ropes and bouldering but why push the issue w/ the park system.
jia
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healyje
May 29, 2007, 5:14 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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Well, that answers that. It looked fine from up at the lookout, but such things are often hard to tell at a glance. Thanks...
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sween345
May 29, 2007, 9:46 PM
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Registered: May 13, 2006
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Joe,
Not to despair, though. A little more than an hour's drive from the lookout you refer to is this spot. http://www.jeffdeutsch.com/albums/19000201/2.html
More than a few people can vouch for the quality of climbs there.
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healyje
May 29, 2007, 10:01 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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Yep, we were on our way to the Gunks when I saw the Pallisades and had to stop and look at them...
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