|
mallory54
Jul 2, 2007, 1:23 PM
Post #1 of 8
(1296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2007
Posts: 5
|
My 9-year-old son started climbing a year and a half ago. He seems to have some talent: he has climbed several 7a's, and on-sighted one 6c/7a. (All indoors.) This mostly comes from strength. His technique is not very good, and while he has been on a team the last six months, there are so many other kids the coach can only spend a limited time with each one.
What sort of training do you all recommend for him? What should a good coach do for him, if anything? I don't climb, and don't really know what to look for.
Greatly appreciate any tips you can give...and also an idea of what we should look for in a good coach.
(This post was edited by mallory54 on Jul 2, 2007, 1:24 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jul 2, 2007, 1:37 PM
Post #2 of 8
(1287 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
its hard to explain what makes a good coach to a non-climber because you wont be able to tell the difference between a good coach and a mediocre one. still in general, a good coach should know how climbing works, know how to teach children proper technique and also have a way of getting the kids to learn while they are having fun (i omitted mentioning knowledge about safety because no coach should be ingnoratn in this field).
but i can tell you what a bad coach looks like:
a) campus/hang board: if he puts your son on one of these, id suggest staying away. the risk of an injury is just too gread and a good coach should know that. teaching proper movement is much more imporant at this stage than strength training.
b) food supplements or even something 'below the counter'. self explanatory. mind you, if he suggest your son should eat some additional protein (even in the form of shakes) that is not bad, but if starts dreaming about protein-shake only diet, or even some shady supplements, take your son and run.
and, on a side-note... indoor grades dont mean a thing
please, do not raise your son to be a nuber-chasing machine. that kindof ruins the fun in climbing
|
|
|
|
|
climbinwv
Jul 2, 2007, 1:53 PM
Post #3 of 8
(1277 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2007
Posts: 140
|
Maybe buy some books and try and teach him as much as you can. Find an older climber who can mentor him. The only grades he should worry about are the one's he gets in school (indoor grades are bs). I think I read Sharma started climbing @ 12...so your kid should be climbing be climbing his age by the time he is twelve (example 12yrs old=5.12...13=5.13....14=5.14) he will be climbing 5.18 in no time. Unless he discovers girls and realizes football players get more ass.....
|
|
|
|
|
ninja_climber
Jul 2, 2007, 2:31 PM
Post #4 of 8
(1268 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2005
Posts: 403
|
forget about indoors. What does he climb outside?
|
|
|
|
|
squarf
Jul 2, 2007, 3:01 PM
Post #5 of 8
(1250 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2006
Posts: 51
|
If I were in your position... I would learn to climb. If your son really likes it, it can be a way to get closer to him. You might not be all that good at it, but if it brings you closer to your son, how can you not love to go out and do it anyways?
If you learn proper belay technique, how to set up a top-rope anchor correctly and any number of things, you can help your son climb outdoors. Climbing outdoors is considered to be "where its at" for climbing. It's usually more rewarding finishing a climb, because you get a good view (at the very least)., you are outside enjoying nature, and you get some excercize while you're at it.
I would start by taking some classes at the local gym, a beginners class and then trying to gauge your interest in it. It's worth a shot right?
Also for some books on training, check out the Self Coached Climber. Keep in mind your son is a child yet, and any form of strength training, done improperly or dietary measures taken can be harmful to him. When in doubt if it would be harmful, just use some common sense... no weight training, no odd diets, don't "train"-- just climb. Many people still contend that the best training for climbing, is climbing... I say you make that motto your training mantra.
Climb ON!
--Nathan
P.S. Of course, if you really don't want to climb, by no means go out and be miserable. It was just a "thought" and I bet you are a great dad already (you are seeking help for him after all).
|
|
|
|
|
N_Oo_B
Jul 3, 2007, 5:12 AM
Post #6 of 8
(1191 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2007
Posts: 463
|
^i agree.
take a belay / beginner class if nothing else. You'll at least learn about the safety measures and knots used in your son's safety.
|
|
|
|
|
cole22
Jul 3, 2007, 6:19 AM
Post #7 of 8
(1179 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2006
Posts: 25
|
I give this advice coming from someone who has been deeply involved in sports from a young age. At age 9 I had a private pitching coach for baseball. I played other sports but its seems, at least to my dad, that I had a natural talent to throw the ball.
Anyway from a young age I was all about baseball, pitching coaches, training, traveling teams the whole 9 yards. Now at 22 baseball is the only sport I don't still play.
I'd say if your son is cranking hard at age 9 just let things go naturally. Keep him on the team and let him play other sports if he chooses. Then at age 12-13, if he's still climbing on his own, not only do you know that he's REALLY into it but now he has an excellent BASE to start training from. He's not gonna be hindered in any way by delaying hardcore training by a few years. By this time both his body and his mind will be more prepared. Hell I started climbing 2 years ago and I can climb pretty hard, imagine if I had been an amateur from age 9 until age 13 and then really started pushing myself? Shit I'd be talking smack to Sharma. hahaha
|
|
|
|
|
dellochef
Jul 9, 2007, 2:33 PM
Post #8 of 8
(1050 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2005
Posts: 67
|
I'll stick to cole22's advice. Let him climb on naturally and if he's still climbing with 13 then you might contact the national team or so. Climbing is not tennis and your son will get worldclass if hes starting to climb more seriously at 13.
Perhaps there is a youth section at your local climbing or mountaineering association. I joined such a group when i was young and i found a lot of good friends.
|
|
|
|
|
|
