Aug 20, 2007, 4:31 AM
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Gunks Guide (possible hot topic)
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I'm going to the Gunks in Oct. and wanted to get a guide. I've never been there before and know that there are alot, scratch that, a ton of awsome climbs. Who do you recommend and why? Or maybe you have another service in mind... I thought that there are only four services that are allowed to guide in the Gunks...
The individual you get is at least as important as the service they work for. You are unlikely to get a truly bad guide from any of these outfits (BTW you forgot EMS), but you'll hear good things about specific guides when folks developed a great rapport with them. This could be based on any number of topics, from sense of humor, to common taste in music, to a shared philosophy toward vertical sports. Years ago my buddies and I hired some guides in New Hampshire. Two of the group went with a young "rope gun" type of guide who was very efficient at getting the rope up there. They climbed a lot of pitches but reported afterwards that the guide said maybe 4 sentences all day. They were not very happy. By contrast, the oldest member of the group and I went with a guide from the same climbing school. He was an older British guy with a deep store of climbing stories and a dry, self-deprecating sense of humor. We only did one route all day, but it was fantastic.
Finally know that you really should be explicit in what you want to do in October, in order that you get paired up with the most appropriate guide.
I thought Sky top was closed, or should I say, owned by the mountain house resort. So knowone can climb there. Are there certain guides that CAN climb there?
I thought Sky top was closed, or should I say, owned by the mountain house resort. So knowone can climb there. Are there certain guides that CAN climb there?
Sean
Yep, if I recall correctly there is one guide service with the rights to guide there, but only to Mohonk Mountain House guests. So...you're talking a huge chunk of change for climbing at Skytop. The room will cost a lot more than the guide fee.
I thought Sky top was closed, or should I say, owned by the mountain house resort. So knowone can climb there. Are there certain guides that CAN climb there?
Sean
Yep, if I recall correctly there is one guide service with the rights to guide there, but only to Mohonk Mountain House guests. So...you're talking a huge chunk of change for climbing at Skytop. The room will cost a lot more than the guide fee.
TS
Alpine Endeavors is the only guide service you can use on Skytop.
I would recommend Rit Picone from EMS or Bob Hostetler who used to work for High Angle but I think they changed management and he may not be there anymore. Why? They're both very patient and knowledgable. And just plain good guys.
Yeah, you have to stay at Mohonk and go through Alpine Endeavors for Skytop. Sucks.
I agree with 'who you get' is important. If you've never been to the Gunks, ask for an older guide who can give you some of the fantastic history of this place while you're climbing. Also, be specific about what you want--do you just want to follow classics or are you looking to learn some technical stuff, too. And don't come on a weekend or else all that money you're spending will go down the pisser as you wait in line for those fantastic climbs you've been salivating for.
And speaking of, how's this for a hijack--which climbs should lagarita hit?
I've been on trips with Marty from Alpine Endeavors, and climbed with 3 people he has hired to guide for him. Each time was awesome; he's humble and very solid in his business practices, and the people he chooses to work with are great.
I took a self-rescue w/shop with Mike Cimino(runs Mountain Skills) and had a great day out there too.
High Angle and EMS, I don't know nothing about. Though I'm pretty sure the last couple times I caught rides to the cliffs, the guys who gave me a ride(they were guides) worked for one of those outfits. Alas...that's not much help for you.
All the guys with Alpine Endeavors, and Mike from Mt. Skills were excellent guides that I would go out with again, and will recommend to anyone. They all had plenty of experience in climbing that there was never a moment's hesitation that they weren't completely in control of things. They all had incredible stories, which I always enjoy, and each one of them imparted knowledge of ethics, land stewardship and history. For me - that is one of the very best things about working with a guide; they're usually dedicated in that way. And they all were great at reading the situation and getting me the experience I had come looking for - even if I didn't know how to articulate it.
Sounds like you want to get in a nice list of ticks on Gunks classics and some surprise hidden gems. Let your guide know that when you're calling, and they'll hook you up with the right person to get you that experience.
I've been in contact with each one of the guides from these three. I've let them know that I wanted to get on a lot of classics as well as some really cool unknown climbs. (ie. High E, lime light, Shocley's ceiling...) What I did find was that none of them will let me lead. The only way that they would let me lead would be if I had taken their lead course followed by several trips with their service.
either way, I ought to have a good time on some of the best climbing in the north east.
Just out of curiousity-- any particular reason that you are looking for a guide instead of a partner? If you lead, you obvioucly don't need a guide to get any climbing done at the Gunks. If a a good partner would suffice, I can put you in touch with some people....
At any rate. I've never personally hired a guide service (too rich for my blood). However, I've been climbing pretty extensively at the Gunks the last three years or so. Every guide I've met with Alpine Endeavors is great. In fact, a good friend of mine guides for them, I can refer you if you'd like...
I ran into to several nice guides with EMS as well. However, I have also know a couple guys that work for EMS that are total assholes. They have that entitlement chip on their shoulder and are very discourteous to other climbers at the cliff preferring to act instead as if they own the place.
There is one guide service I might suggest staying away from, but I can't remember the name!!! I know it was recently sold to another guy. The former owner though, is locally infamous, for being VERY loud and insisting on yelling every move, every handhold, down to its texture, shape and size to his clients. We call him the "Masta'Beta" and nobody likes a chronic masta'bata! At any rate, the above description is probably sufficent that someone will surely know the name of his guide service. It may be a moot point though because I don't know that I have seen them guiding individual clients, just groups of top-ropers.
Anyhow, good luck! If you would like some suggestions for partners, feel free to email me at climbingbetty22@hotmail.com
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