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rhonius
Aug 23, 2007, 2:16 PM
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Hey guys I need your input again. I am headed up to Acadia this weekend and was wondering what would you suggest as must climb classics. I will be with a beginner so maybe keep it below 5.9. TR or lead
thanks
Aaron
(This post was edited by rhonius on Aug 23, 2007, 2:53 PM)
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cracklover
Aug 23, 2007, 3:21 PM
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rhonius wrote: Hey guys I need your input again. I am headed up to Acadia this weekend and was wondering what would you suggest as must climb classics. I will be with a beginner so maybe keep it below 5.9. TR or lead thanks Aaron
http://www.gunks.com/...earch=true#Post21114
GO
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rhonius
Aug 23, 2007, 3:33 PM
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Awesome thanks alot
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notch
Aug 23, 2007, 5:00 PM
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rhonius wrote: Hey guys I need your input again. I am headed up to Acadia this weekend and was wondering what would you suggest as must climb classics. I will be with a beginner so maybe keep it below 5.9. TR or lead thanks Aaron
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Gmburns2000
Aug 23, 2007, 5:28 PM
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elron wrote: Hello all! Its been quite a while since I've seen most of you, but it looks like there is lots of good climbing happening back there in Boston. Great pics from NH Rob! Things are well here in California. Lots of climbing, hiking, and other fun stuff. I put up some pictures of my weekend trip to Temple Crag in the High Sierra. My friend and I climbed Venusian Blind, a really fun 15 pitch 5.7. Check out the pics. Also pics of Tahoe and a trip I took to the Tetons back in July: http://picasaweb.google.com/elron8711 Do any of you have plans to come visit the west coast? I know that Core is thinking about a trip in October... can't wait! I'll be back for a few days in September, so maybe I'll make it out to QQ one day to see some of you then. Kevin
Hey Kevin,
A few of us are thinking Red Rocks the week before Thanksgiving. Any thoughts? We're also debating Yosemite but aren't sure what the weather will be like then. Can you give us some direction? I'll let you know what we're up to as we get closer.
Greg
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elron
Aug 23, 2007, 6:09 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: A few of us are thinking Red Rocks the week before Thanksgiving. Any thoughts? We're also debating Yosemite but aren't sure what the weather will be like then. Can you give us some direction? I'll let you know what we're up to as we get closer.
Greg, cool! I may actually be back in MA for Thanksgiving... not sure yet, but we do need to visit family sometime, and with my luck, if I leave Tahoe at Christmas we'll finally get some snow here :)
The weather in the Valley will probably be iffy around Thanksgiving (or, at least have a good chance of being iffy). I've climbed there in November, but got rained on about 50% of the time... kinda like climbing in MA :) I can't really comment on Red Rocks, but I have a feeling you'd have better luck there weather wise.
Kevin
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Gmburns2000
Aug 23, 2007, 6:14 PM
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elron wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: A few of us are thinking Red Rocks the week before Thanksgiving. Any thoughts? We're also debating Yosemite but aren't sure what the weather will be like then. Can you give us some direction? I'll let you know what we're up to as we get closer. Greg, cool! I may actually be back in MA for Thanksgiving... not sure yet, but we do need to visit family sometime, and with my luck, if I leave Tahoe at Christmas we'll finally get some snow here :) The weather in the Valley will probably be iffy around Thanksgiving (or, at least have a good chance of being iffy). I've climbed there in November, but got rained on about 50% of the time... kinda like climbing in MA :) I can't really comment on Red Rocks, but I have a feeling you'd have better luck there weather wise. Kevin
Sweet! Make sure you give me a shout if you're climbing.
That's what I thought about Yosemite that late. I think RR will work better. And I know you work from home, so bring yer laptop to Vegas and climb with us!!! No excuses.
Greg
PS - I was recently told that I am a bad influence... ... ... Nawwwww...
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rhonius
Aug 23, 2007, 6:39 PM
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I'll take "awesome views and not many people" for 1000 Alex
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jakedatc
Aug 23, 2007, 11:05 PM
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holy crap its going to be hot this weekend.. say good bye to Pway saturday.. maybe i'll go grease on stuff at LW but we'll see how that goes.. Probably do a fun basement session tonight
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elg0086
Aug 24, 2007, 4:26 PM
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Hi everyone,
I'm looking to see if anyone has a copy of Al Rubin's out of print "Rose Ledges" that they would be willing to part with. If not, is there anyone that has a topo of some of the less documented walls (Introductory Butress, Lonely Crack, Pancake Flake, Central Buttress, etc.) I spend a couple months out of the year working in central Mass. and would like to have more info on some of the local crags. Thanks so much for any help.
-Erik
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robbovius
Aug 24, 2007, 4:36 PM
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Erik, Check mountainproject.com, I aded some farley ledge beta there a while ago.
also contact eh wester mass climbers coalition ( a few of them frequent newenglandbouldering.com) the'll be able to help you out with western mass crag beta.
Headed to shaded Purgatory Chasm tomorrow with Shane. my bum toe is doing okay though after a relatively easy session at CR last night, it's aching a bit today.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 24, 2007, 4:37 PM)
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jakedatc
Aug 24, 2007, 4:47 PM
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Going to LW tomorrow i believe.. Pway was looking like 100 F and thats just silly stupid to try to boulder in. Is it november yet ;)
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mrksprague
Aug 25, 2007, 12:58 AM
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You got to go for altitude, Jake.
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oarsman13
Aug 25, 2007, 1:27 AM
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Anyone know of any deep water soloing around Boston?
i am dying to do some deep water soloing. i've been looking at every crappy mass beach i go to and haven't found the right ingredients (overhang, holds, deep water or flat sand).
please let me know if anyone knows of a good spot.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 25, 2007, 2:21 AM
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oarsman13 wrote: Anyone know of any deep water soloing around Boston? i am dying to do some deep water soloing. i've been looking at every crappy mass beach i go to and haven't found the right ingredients (overhang, holds, deep water or flat sand). please let me know if anyone knows of a good spot.
I don't know of anything in Boston, but there is a spot in Cape Elizabeth, Maine that kids use for cliff jumping a lot. You've got to climb at high tide, but the bottom is sandy and the cliff goes about 40 feet up (if I remember correctly). Unfortunately, I can't remember the beach's name, and I think access to the beach may be private property. But that was years ago and there were a lot of people using the beach then. I can't imagine the property owners won access rights and kept the beach entirely private. Sorry I can't be of more help.
You might want to try lakes or ponds instead.
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jakedatc
Aug 25, 2007, 2:25 AM
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quincy quarries... though you'd have to fill it up with water again ;)
Mark I think next weekend might have some Rumney action in it.. also some hiking to snag a few 4000 ft'ers for something different
Nice pic of Tin monekey btw ;) haha
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cracklover
Aug 25, 2007, 5:04 AM
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oarsman13 wrote: Anyone know of any deep water soloing around Boston? i am dying to do some deep water soloing. i've been looking at every crappy mass beach i go to and haven't found the right ingredients (overhang, holds, deep water or flat sand). please let me know if anyone knows of a good spot.
Hey, there's a way to beat the heat!
Well, I only bring this up because your name is oarsman...
I can't confirm this, but I've heard that one or more of the small islands in the Boston Harbor area have small sea-cliffs on them. All within a day-paddle of Boston. Course, you have to really know what you're doing, because of all the shipping traffic going in and out of the harbor. But if you do have the experience in Boston Harbor, go check it out.
Again, I haven't been to any of these supposed cliffs. The best I can say is that I always look out the cabin window for them on the rare occasion when flights in/out of Boston happen to go over the Bay. And I've definitely seen *something*. Mind you, we're almost certainly talking about granite, not limestone. So expect something more slabby than overhanging.
Cheers,
GO
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dmitrys
Aug 25, 2007, 6:46 AM
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Hey, it is unrelated and sorry for bugging you
You just have a lot of post and look like an authority
I am visiting Boston in mid October 2007 and would like to find someone to go climbing with. I ahve been climbing f0r 30+ years - can lead/follow, belay... you name it.
Any pointers?
I appresiate any and all help.
You can reach me at samdbrad268@yahoo.com
Thx/cheers,
Dmitry Sidorov
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robbovius
Aug 25, 2007, 11:13 PM
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DMitri, post up when you're in the area, you'll be able to find partners no problem.
Went to Purgatory today, shane was under the weathe rfrom her Bday celebs last night, so it was more rope-solo laps/practice on geryon 5.6.
everything was filthy, and the entire bottom overhang was wet: not quite running-water wet, but defintely wash-your-chalk off wet. made the bottom moves sketchy, but I did it anyway.
wound up doing a bunch of climbing ambassadorship with several groups of spectating day-hikers. Lectures, demos, captive audiences. tried to be smoooth and fluid on the moves, conserving energy and momentum.
geryon is one of my favorite .6s. I really like leading that thing.
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jakedatc
Aug 26, 2007, 12:06 AM
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Ya Rob.. rocks were sweating at LW also.. but we did find a bunch stuff that was dry and ended up having a crimpy technical day on vert and slabs . good times.. hopefully my tendons forgive me ("jake holds" are usable but painful :) )
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jakedatc
Aug 27, 2007, 2:49 PM
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Rumney this weekend... who else is going?
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Gmburns2000
Aug 27, 2007, 3:01 PM
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jakedatc wrote: Rumney this weekend... who else is going?
I think I'm heading to Cannon. Never been there before. Anyone know of decent places to stay? I know I've asked this question about ten times this year for different places, but this is the first year I've camped out at some of these places. Once I find a good spot (which I have for every place I've gone), I'll stop asking. I found a great spot across from the cliff at Cathedral a couple of weeks ago (near the North Wall). No need for paid camping there now, thankfully.
Also, any recommendations on good, long routes to do? We're staying at 5.9 and below, unless they're sandbagged up there, then 5.8 and below. Probably looking for something long and not overly crowded (does that invoke a laugh? first time up there, remember, I don't know what I'm doing  )
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ratherbe
Aug 27, 2007, 3:54 PM
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The Gunks rocks were more than sweaty on Saturday, so we spent some time at the only reasonable place: Split Rock. Sunday dawned with raindrops, but cleared up, allowing upward movement on Son of Easy O and Snooky's Return. The Grey Williams guide encourages climbing all 3 pitches of Snooky's, but I think most people don't pay attention to that. It's got such a fun move on it, but the dirt and lichen kinda detract.
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cracklover
Aug 27, 2007, 5:16 PM
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dmitrys wrote: Hey, it is unrelated and sorry for bugging you You just have a lot of post and look like an authority I am visiting Boston in mid October 2007 and would like to find someone to go climbing with. I ahve been climbing f0r 30+ years - can lead/follow, belay... you name it. Any pointers? I appresiate any and all help. You can reach me at samdbrad268@yahoo.com Thx/cheers, Dmitry Sidorov
Dmitry, I typically like to meet in the gym and climb a little, to just make sure we get along and whatnot. If that's okay with you, then sure!
GO
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a.frosch
Aug 27, 2007, 6:49 PM
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Cannon grades are known to be a little stout, but that depends on where you usually climb. Compared to the gunks it is not sandbagged at all.
Most of the good routes will have people on them. The Whitney Gilman ridge is mega-classic and exposed but also mega-popular. I haven't done Moby Grape but people say it's one of the best on cannon. Lakeview if you want something a bit easier; I have heard that vertigo is also amazing but at 5.9 R is pretty bold.
The talus slopes on the approach are somewhat dangerous; My partner was almost killed there. Ten Cuidado!
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