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Bruce Peninsula
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adam3


Aug 24, 2007, 10:13 PM
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Registered: Jan 10, 2007
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Bruce Peninsula
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Didn't want to post this under the trip report forum. But wanted to know first hand if there are any really sick sport routes up near tobermory in the bruce peninsula? Let me know


binrat


Aug 24, 2007, 10:27 PM
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Re: [adam3] Bruce Peninsula [In reply to]
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Lion's head


steinmethod


Aug 24, 2007, 10:28 PM
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lions head... great sport climbing


surgeon1


Aug 25, 2007, 3:04 AM
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Re: [steinmethod] Bruce Peninsula [In reply to]
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Cape Croker also has some good sport climbing in the 10-12 range. It is listed under "Indian Ladder" in the old Escarpment guide book and for some reason is not included in the sport guide book.


adam3


Aug 25, 2007, 4:22 PM
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cool sounds good. Well we're hitting the road in abit so Ill let you know how it goes. Yay rock road trips!


granite_grrl


Aug 27, 2007, 3:54 PM
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Note on climbing at Lion's Head:

Take it seriously. You are mostly rappeling in to hanging belays.

Have a plan if you can't finish the climb. Have a plan if you go down the wrong line. Have a plan if you fall off near the bottom and you're haging in the abyss with the rock our of reach. Leave a rap line.

As you rap in pre-clip the first bolt, on many routes the crux is right off the belay and falling before the first bolt will result in a factor 2 fall (and some devices like the trango cinch aren't rated for a factor two).

Also note that many of the bolts are in piss poor condition and many of the routes a bolted badly and can be run out.

Lion's head is really not the kind of place to push your limits.


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