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Bolt orientation in the Gym
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Upperlimits


Aug 30, 2007, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2007
Posts: 42

Bolt orientation in the Gym
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My gym has bolts at all different angles. Almost none of them are in what I think would be the proper orientation. Like this:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/Good_Bolt_42388.html

Most of them are oriented horizontally which makes it hard to figure out sometimes if you are back-clipping or not because the draw sometimes hangs at an odd angle.

Are all gyms like this or is mine different? Is this dangerous? Should I talk to the manager about this?

This didn't seem to be much of a problem a couple of months ago. I was just looking around last night and noticed they are almost all oriented horizontally.

What say you?


bigfatrock


Aug 30, 2007, 7:16 PM
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Registered: Aug 2, 2006
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Re: [Upperlimits] Bolt orientation in the Gym [In reply to]
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I'm not 100% sure, but I think they are safe. I have clipped bolts on rock placed at odd angles. I am not sure how this would affect recognizing a back clip though, the draw still hangs straight down.

My gym is a different story. They have fixed draws on crappy slings that twist around, those are easy to back clip if you don't double check to make sure they are not twisted. The gates also face in the wrong direction a lot since the routes get changed but the draws never move.


coastal_climber


Aug 30, 2007, 7:22 PM
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Re: [bigfatrock] Bolt orientation in the Gym [In reply to]
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The gym where I work has a couple hangers that are sitting parallel, and I asked the manager and it's not too big of a deal. They are rated to retardedly strong ratings, plus if you fall on them hard enough, they will self align. I've seen some outside too, fastened differently, I guess some people think differently about the loading axis.

>Cam


nunatak


Sep 3, 2007, 2:28 AM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2006
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Re: [Upperlimits] Bolt orientation in the Gym [In reply to]
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One thing that may concern you is whether or not they started in that position. If they are moving, that is bad. If they can move, they may be loose or loosening.


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