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Round Island - Ilha Redonda
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winglessangel


Sep 22, 2007, 12:23 AM
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Round Island - Ilha Redonda
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I had seen the island before, many times. Right there in front of Ipanema beach it is impossible to be a Carioca and never have seen it, one may not know its name or have never given it proper attention, but never seen it, I doubt.
Although I had many times thought of climbing there I never had concrete plans, it was more like a dream, a wish and the invitation was a big surprise. I was working out at the gym when F. called me on a corner and told me he was going there with a group on the holyday of September 7th. I, in fact, had other plans for this weekend, I was going to Pedra do Baú, but an opportunity like this can’t be thrown away, to Baú I can go any time, just take the car and go, but the logistic needed to visit the island is way more complicated, you don’t choose to visit it, it chooses you.

We were eight: F. the Master of the island is the one who started conquering there, who invited us and who organized everything. There was also A., the First Lady, the Master’s girlfriend who also helped organizing the trip. Four guys were invited, B., G., D., and C., the girls were M. and I.

The agreement was 6:30am at Urca’s square where we were going to get a boat to drop was on the island. I got on time, B. and G. were already there. We waited for a while, betting on which boat was the one hired, no one won the bet. When the Master and A. finally arrived we started loading, M. showed up shortly after, D. and C. showed up very late together, according to them C. was the one to blame.

We had over 30 packs, plus many ropes, and about 15 liters of water per person. With everything on board we left.
As the boat went around Urca to leave the bay, the view of Păo de Açucar (Sugar Loaf) from the sea fascinated me. I could see clearly all the routes on south and east faces I’ve climbed so many times. And more routes and memories came when Morro da Urca and Babilônia became visible too.
Rio de Janeiro is really pretty, the city appearing and then getting behind was something, Urca, Copacabana, Ipanema and Corcovado with the Christ. Looking ahead we saw first the Cagarras Islands growing in front of us, and then finally her, Ilha Redonda, or the Round Island, imposing mass of rock in the middle of the ocean. From a distance we could already see so many dihedrals and cracks waiting to be climbed.

We were getting closer but were not quite there yet, the problem was, I have motion sickness, one hour in the fishing boat and I was completely dizzy. When we arrived the Master said 5 should go to land and 3 should help form the boat. He went first to fix a rope on the coast. The island has no beaches, the approach must be done through steep and slippery rocks. I didn’t think twice, couldn’t stay another minute on that boat, I jumped in the water. A. who was also very seasick jumped too, and so did B..

Equipment transfer was done with a barrel, those in the boat would load it for those on land pull it with the rope and unload. Over 20 barrel trips were needed. Pulling the barrel requires strength the Master and B. were doing it while A. and I were taking the pack the camping area. After a few barrel trips I got a pink pack, M.’s pack, I was taking it to the camp, but the way there was very slippery, although we had a rope to help I fell. I was very fast, I had no time to think, I just felt my foot moving and then pain. My face encountered the rock. I moved my hands up and all I saw was blood, lots and lots of blood everywhere. I was in pain, the Master and B. were there, they cleaned my face, I wanted to cry, they calmed me down. They identified a cut on the top of my nose, one on my bottom and one on my upper lips. B. examined my teeth, none was broken. The master held the cut on the nose to stop the bleeding, didn’t work.


To be continued...


(This post was edited by winglessangel on Sep 22, 2007, 12:56 AM)


winglessangel


Sep 24, 2007, 12:55 AM
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It took me a few minutes to calm down. The flow of blood slowed down but was still coming , specially form inside my nose. Everyone in the boat was looking curious and worried, D. jumped in the water and came to help and replace me on the unloading. I was forbidden to remain there, I was supposed to go to camp and keep my head up. No, this isn’t for me, I like to act, I couldn’t stay just waiting. I kept thinking what was going through the Marter’s head. He is the owner of the gym where I fell in the beginning of the year, I broke four vertebraes on that occasion. I didn’t want him to feel bad for this, it wasn’t his fault, not even indirectly for inviting me to the island, no, another accident with me was too much, I had to go back and show I was ok.
Going back wasn’t a good idea, there was to many people there, so many that the Master himself decided to step back, swim a little and relax, what seemed to pis to the boat owner a lot. He had to go back to Urca and the unloading was taking too long.

What doesn’t help disturbs, so I went back to camp and distracted myself organizing things around there.
Unloading wasn’t even finished when I heard a cracking noise, something broke, something red was spilling all over someone’s pack and over someone’s equipment, oh no, the wine!! I moved it quickly, no big damage, except for losing a bottle of beverage, but fine, we had other 3, and a bottle of cachaça, or hadn’t we? Ten minutes passed and I heard the same sound again, oops, someone dropped the cachaça, damn, now we had a problem, holyday without caipirinha…

As I mentioned before, the island has no beaches, it is a block of rock, it has no flat terrain either, and few vegetation, except for the summit, but it is inhabited by birds, many, many birds, seagull, boobies, frigatebirds, and many other sorts of sea birds with duck feet that I don’t know that name. But it doesn’t matter, according to D. there are only 2 kinds of birds, ducks and non-duck, or chicks, if has duck feet is a duck , if doesn’t is a non-duck, or a chick.
For that the camp has no tents, only hammocks in a cave that was more like an awning than a cave. Without bolts or threes the hammocks were set, with pro, mine took a #3 and a #.4 C4 camalots.

So, all set, eaveryone took a time to relax, eat, swim, so, time to climb, after all, that what we went there fore, right?


To be continued...


(This post was edited by winglessangel on Sep 24, 2007, 10:19 PM)


winglessangel


Sep 24, 2007, 1:03 AM
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Urca's Square



Loading



Sugar Loaf and Urca Beach



The city



Copacabana



The island



Closer view


camp


(This post was edited by winglessangel on Sep 24, 2007, 1:08 AM)
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  b.JPG (79.4 KB)
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  D.JPG (65.4 KB)
  g.JPG (44.0 KB)
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  F.JPG (90.9 KB)
  h.JPG (107 KB)


winglessangel


Sep 24, 2007, 10:12 PM
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Re: [winglessangel] Round Island - Ilha Redonda [In reply to]
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The island has 6 routes, the first five, Virgem do Atlântico (Virgin of the Atlantic), Siga o Magnésio (Follow the Chalk), Atobá Cabeçăăăooooo (Booby Big Heeeaaaaad), A Ver Navios (Watching Ships) and Devassa do Atlântico (Slut of the Atlantic) (incomplete), had the Master in the FA party, the last one, Convite ao Ócio (Invitation to Idleness), is the only one he didn’t open.
All routes are between 2 and 4 pitches long. Six routes may seem too few, but as says the name of the last route, the island is a perfect invitation to idleness, sometimes climbing is the last thing you wanna do.

To reach the base of the routes you must climb the first pitch of the “Virgin”, 148 feet of 5.7 with no bolts at all and only one short flake available for placing pro. Good thing that the Master and A. went first and left a fixed rope for the rest, jummaring is a lot better than soloing. They kept climbing the “Virgin”, B. and M. followed them. This first pitch ends on a stance with a tree. To get to the other bases you must follow the face of the rock to the right, what would have been easy wasn’t for the waist high grass, the unstable soil that kept falling after each step and for the many ‘duck’ nests with furious mothers trying to bite.
I was with C. and we were going to “Follow the Chalk”. We walked till a point where he thought he had seen a bolt. Instructions were “Go, till you find a bolt, climb to it, then go to the dihedral on the right”. He started leading, he went on, and on, and on, and no bolt, no flake, no crack. “Where is the f****g bolt??” I started looking, “Found it!!” - I called. “Where??” And like a little kid who has done something wrong I timidly point to my right.
“Where?”
“Do you see that seagull over there? So, right next to it...”
The seagull and the bolt were 33 feet to my right, about 23 feet from the base. C. was 39 feet from the base, right above me.
“I think you gonna have to downclimb…”
At this moment D. and G. arrived. “Wha’zup?”, “He got in worng”, “And where he was supposed to be?”, “There”, I point again, “Where?”, “See that seagull…”, “Oooohhh, yeah, dude, good luck…”.
They were going to climb the same route and it was late, still they didn’t pass us, they waited. They Waited C. downclimb, go to the right place, climb the first pitch, and me following. The problem is the G. climbs well and fast, a lot faster than me even going as second. Many times I looked down and he was right behind, waiting for me to finish the sequence of moves. The route is nice, not difficulty, but not easy either. After the first bolt comes a long sequence of lieback/dihedral with trad protection, and then a bolted sequence of large holds with high feet moves. Bolting was very sparse, of course…. The bolt before the station was in a stance with a huge cactus which I managed to kick and end up with many spines stuck inside my shoe (one remained stuck for 2 weeks). Unfortanely C. was tired, the night before he went to bed at 4 and got up at 6. He didn’t wanna try the second pitch and I didn’t care, my nose was hurting and bleeding again. I could push and keep going but was unfair to C., he stayed up cause he was cooking the meal we would have the nest night: chicken stroganoff, he deserved a rest. We went back, D. and G. kept climbing.

Back to the hammocks the ground was full of roaches, not these gross urban roaches, but a different kind, weird looking, and slow, so slow it doesn’t disgust you, and if you come to thing about, in theory they are clean, they don’t live in sewer, must survive on the excrement of the many ‘ducks’ of the island. I lay to relax and notice something on the floor, something small and hairy, fluffy and brown. I think, “no first roaches and now rats too?” I focused my head lamp on it and saw no rat, but a baby bird, which bird I don’t know but it didn’t have duck feet. I showed to C. who grabbed it, the poor thing wouldn’t stop crying. Soon D. and G. came back from there climb very tired and tried to rest. Baby bird still crying, C. put it inside his pocket, the heat shut it up.
The other four took a while to return, “Virgin of the Atlantic” is longer and harder than “Follow the Chalk”, when they finally arrived we started setting up dinner.
A. took a gigantic tupperware of frozen spaghetti and another of frozen cooked ground beef. Even with four stoves to unfreeze it the meal took a while to be made. Harder thing was to break the frozen pasta in pieces that would fit the pan. At least it was well served, I had three times as much as my regular home meals.
The night had fallen a long ago and we had already spent too much time with campground talk, raising theories on how the lizards got to the island if they can’t swim or fly when we decided to sleep. I though I would never be able to sleep in a hammock, but I slept like a rock.

When dawn broke B. was the first to stand. All hammocks but his had been set up under the ‘awning’, he then found out the worse way possible that ducks take a dump at night, and a lot.
Close to camp the island forms a natural pool next a reasonably flat area, not flat enough to sleep and very unprotected from the wind, but flat enough to lay on the sun. Ahh the sun, water and beer, warm beer, of course, but beer any way. The best option was to spend all morning there in complete laziness, no climbing… The Master even took his fishing poll. Honestly I was a bit afraid of the pool, there is where I fell on my face but I was coming, I stayed behind, procrastinating, organizing a few things, but I was coming. All the suddenly “ploft” another chick fell in front of me. “Again? What these animals want here?” I showed D. who was around, at that moment I was still curious to know if it was a seagull, booby or frigatebird, D. simply looked and said, “It doesn’t have duck feet”, and that’s when the theory was developed, “there are only 2 kinds of birds: ducks and non-duck, or chicks, if has duck feet is a duck , if doesn’t is a non-duck, or a chick”. He put the chick with other chicks, didn’t care if they were from the same family or not and we went to the pool.

When the sun gets too strong it’s time to eat, and then It’s time to climb. This time I paired up with B.. I really wanted to lead, but I wanted an easy route, according to the Master best choice was “Booby Big Heeeaaaaad”.


To be continued...


winglessangel


Sep 25, 2007, 12:48 PM
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Hanging out by the 'pool' saturday morning




Many many birds and someone jummarign the first pitch of "Virgin of the Atlantic"




From "Follow the Chalk" we could see the Master and A. on "Virgin of the Atlantic"


(This post was edited by winglessangel on Sep 25, 2007, 12:52 PM)
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winglessangel


Sep 25, 2007, 2:30 PM
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We Jummared the first pitch of the “Virgin” like the day before. M. and C. were just ahead, they were going to the same route. We walked along the face of the rock to the right, this route was about 10 to 15 min after “Follow the Chalk”. After walking for a while we found’em returning, they though they had missed it. Its first pitch doesn’t have bolts, therefore, there isn’t exactly a mark to indicate it. We were looking for a dihedral, but the wall is, well, like walls in Rio are, there is never one perfect big and continuous dihedral, it is always a dihedral that suddenly disappears then suddenly reappears…
We stayed there, kind of lost, looking around till the Master showed up, he was coming to climb one route past “Booby” so he had to pass through us. He told us to keep moving, we haven’t missed it after all, we haven’t even made it there.
Once he had shown us the base C. started leading and M. followed him then it was my turn. The beginning seemed to be easy, and like I predicted wasn’t a perfect dihedral was face climbing with flakes and cracks perfect for placing pro and liebacking that would come and go along the pitch. I kept going and going well, (worth to remember that I haven’t led trad since last December and that ever since I recovered from my injury I led only 3 routes or was it 2?) So I kept going, protecting, nice moves, easy placements, I went up about 30m then a crack showed up, it was a lieback move, but the edge would get sloppier as it went up, difficult to hold, the key was to the catch this ledge (also slopish) and out of reach for my 5’3”. I tried first unprotected cause I though nothing would fit. Couldn’t do it, last pro was far below and I was scared. I decided to protect the move even if it would be just a psychological protection, for my surprise my red DMM Wallnut #6 was bomber there. Of course the fear didn’t let me believe the piece would hold, I was sure it was coming out. I tried the sequence about 5 or 6 times, between each try I looked down to see B.’s face full of expectation, he tried to encourage me but didn’t know exactly how to help. I finally gave up. I had to be lowered, but I couldn’t trust that nut and nothing would fit as a back up, I tried, but the crack was shallow. The green #11 just bellow seemed to be way better, but then I would have to downclimb, hmmm, whatever, lets go. Sequence downclimbed and I was face to face with a beautiful crack. With a .75 C4 backing up the green Wallnut I had the guts to accept being lowered.
Oh, the good old floor again! And now we had a wall filled with protection to be recovered and o whole route waiting to be climbed. B. did what he had to do, led everything, I followed. I got to the green nut, it came out well, not easy, just well. I climbed more, got to the red nut, the one I didn’t trust. Amazing how fear changes our perception, it took a lot of hits with the nut tool to remove that piece. And that difficult move? With rope coming from above it’s another story ;-).

I didn’t wanna lead anymore so B. led the second pitch as well, a lot different from P1, it had no dihedrals or cracks just face climbing with lots of slab sequences or small holds with very sparse bolts. While I was anchored belaying B. the Master was rapeling the nearby route with his rope and the one C. and M. used. They put the ropes together when they met on the summit. C. had left his pack at the station I was.
The Master wanted C.’s pack:
“Flavia, I’ll throw you the rope so you can clip C.’s pack for me to pull”
“Com’on I’m balayign B. now”
“Throwing..”
“Too short, try again”
“Go”
“Flavia, what’s up with the tension???” It was B. complaining. I was belaying with one hand, trying to tie a knot with the other, now I had to clip the pack to the knot, “f***, it’s so heavy!!”
“FLAVIA, GIMME SOME SLACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!”
I ignore the pack so I can give proper attention to B., the Master started to get irritated, he was stopped mid-way of his rapel “Flavia, the pack”, “F***, man, now I can’t, why don’t YOU come here???” And that’s what he did, with a pendulum he got to my station.

The rest of the group was rapeling while I was going up. A few bolts later the route became kind of slab, weird sequence, the kind you move your foot and it always slide a bit before staying in place. Like every “good” second I yelled that classic “tensioooon!!’ and like every good leader B. did what he had to do, gave some slack! What?!?! Wait, I called tension and the slack increased? I called for tension again and the slack increased EVEN MORE!!!
Whatever was happening to B. at that moment, no matter how simples the explanation was, I couldn’t think of anything, panic took control over me. It was a horror scream that came out this time, the kind you only see in B type movies “Tension, B. f*, man, pull this f*ing rope, oohhooohh pleasse”. All I hear is the Masters sarcastic voice “Don’t cry, uh?…”, everybody on the station saw the scene, AHAYHAUAHAYAUHAAYA, I started laughing of the fool I was making of myself. B. finally pulled the rope and I kept going.

The view from the top of the island is amazing, everything looks great, you can see Cagarras Islands, the lighthouse island, and Rio’s walls. Which walls? Well I’ll tell you the story: When the Portuguese first came to Rio, they saw from the distance what looked like a fortress wall, a huge wall build by some civilization, only when they got closer they realized it was no wall, just mountains, more precisely the Tijuca massif. Now there are two walls, the original rocky one and the new wall of concrete, the face of many tall city buildings.
We didn’t admire the view for long, we rapeled the last pitch with our rope and by the time we got to station #1 the two ropes of the other parties were waiting for us, P1 can’t be rapeled with only one rope. At the base, M. and C. waited us to help carrying the 3 ropes, the Master and the first lady had left, light as a feather….

Dinner of this night was chicken stroganoff with rice, another well served meal. I liked this thing of community dinner, if it was on me it would have been instant noodles and sausage for 3 days.


again, there is more to come (traslating isn't as easy as I tought)


winglessangel


Sep 26, 2007, 2:41 PM
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Next morning we woke up early. It was the last day, if it was to climb, the sooner the better, by the time we had to leave, everything had to be ready, no delays accepted. We woke up early but we didn’t hurry, that island doesn’t allow you to, you wake up, watch the sunrise, lay in the hammock, watch the birds, have breeeeeakfast, watch the birds, get dressed, watch the ooooocean, brush your teeth, watch the biiirrrrrds, uuaaahhh, “think I aint climbing today’, D. says he is going to bake pizzas by the pool, “I definitely aint climbing today”!!!.
B. and G. are the only interested in climbing, they paired up and left. The rest went to the pool to get some tan or went fishing. I packed everything, gathered my stuff that was all over the camp and that was when the island played its trick, the sun finally warmed the skin, the coffee finally kicked in and I got that big desire to climb, I turned to C. and invited him to do something. He looked at his closed pack, all his stuff put together and “now you say that? Nahh, this ship has sailed…”

So it's pizza, sun and water... D. was making the pizzas in a frying pan with camp stove, one pizza better then the other, and they wouldn’t stop coming, the only problem was the wind that insisted on putting our fire out. We used every stove we had and we had four. When the last one, the only that didn’t use removable gas can, ended the Master went to replace the gas. He pierced it wrongly and it started leaking. We lost the whole canister, game over. It was late, the pizza ended at the right time, not long before that our boat passed in front of the island, it had a fishing group, the sailor passed honking loudly, we waved back.
Three pm it was all set, every pack closed, every pack in the “boarding area”. The wind was strong and cold and getting worse by the minute. The waves were tall and fast, sometimes their sound choking against the rocks made me jump backward, it would always be a few seconds till I realize they were too far. Amazing how time won’t pass when you are expecting something, three thirty, where is the boat? Four, didn’t he just pass honking? Four thirty, better call… He was on his way, decided to take the group back to Urca before getting us. Five o’clock, a point in the horizon, is that him? Gone.. there again, gone again... Five fifteen, it was him, it was him going up and down with the gigatic waves, finally, we are boarding, or aren’t we? Zé, the sailor, tries to anchor, he can barely walk, it takes huge effort to keep balance. He throws the anchor right in front of us, and then is already 150feet behind, it took only seconds to be carried by the currents. The anchor didn’t catch, gotta try again.
Zé keeps trying, he moves the boat back and forth looking for the right spot, it seems that this spot doesn’t exist. It doesn’t matter, even if he did settle there was no way we could swim over there, jumping in a sea like that is suicide. Mission aborted, lets board the next morning. It is time to call the families and calm them down, it is time to call the bosses and warn them Monday will start late. I needed a bath; last one I had was Thursday night, since the night before the salt and dirt have given me rash, and I really wanted to give my nose proper medical treatment, still I didn’t care, we gained another sunset and sunrise to appreciate. Nobody cared to be honest, we didn’t have gas for the stoves, but we didn’t have food requiring it anyway, bread, cookies and granola bars held us that night. With the placements still in memory resetting the hammocks was easy. The night was fun, the talk was good and passed quickly.

Honks, honks and more honks, that isn’t the sound you want to hear at 5:30 am, but that was the sound taking us from ours hammocks on that Monday. The boat had its appointments and so did we, he couldn’t commit another mistake, hurry. But he had to wait, we had to unpack to sleep now we had to put it all together again, and we had to eat. It was around 6:30 when we loaded the first barrel, the logistic isn’t simple, the terrain isn’t flat and friendly, the sea doesn’t help but it is the best way possible. This time B. and C. went to the boat, the rest stayed on the island. Slowly we were moving our stuff, the delicate part is to lower the heavy barrel down the sloppy rock to the water. Sometimes a wave would come and chock against it. It was one of these waves that once opened that barrel, actually, no, just unlocked it, but the risk of water coming in was big. B. jumped in the water, if he was in the Olympic games he would win, never seen anyone swim so fast, so desperately. He locked the barrel, the risk was eliminated, he turned at us “It was my pack, dude, MY pack…”
Nine thirty, we were back in Urca. It’s over, we had to follow separated ways, go home, go to work, we couldn’t extend it anymore, not even had the typical post-climb cold one, no, it was Monday…


Partner j_ung


Sep 26, 2007, 6:30 PM
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Wow! What a place. More pics!


winglessangel


Sep 26, 2007, 7:33 PM
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coming soon!

but did you read the whole thing? Gotta play to get the prize, man!


charley


Sep 26, 2007, 10:34 PM
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Good story. Nice pics. I hope your nose heals fine.


winglessangel


Sep 27, 2007, 12:02 AM
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j_ung wrote:
Wow! What a place. More pics!
Thanks, it really is amazing, and we were lucky to have 3(4) days of perfect weather. Just very cold at night, doesn't look like, but it was "technically" winter.


winglessangel


Sep 27, 2007, 12:18 AM
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Looking for the base of "Booby Big Heeeaaaaad", we were so wrong!!





That is me!!! (before giving up...)



From the top: Birds and Rio de Janeiro


(This post was edited by winglessangel on Sep 27, 2007, 12:22 AM)
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winglessangel


Sep 27, 2007, 12:39 AM
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D. making our lunch on Sunday. hummmm pizza, yammyamm!!!



rocks




camp by day and by night


all set waiting for the boat, the city so close, and yet so far



the extra sunrise


(This post was edited by winglessangel on Sep 27, 2007, 12:41 AM)
Attachments: pizza.JPG (128 KB)
  rocks.JPG (99.8 KB)
  camp_day.JPG (115 KB)
  camp_night.JPG (127 KB)
  waiting.JPG (128 KB)
  sunrise.JPG (147 KB)


winglessangel


Sep 27, 2007, 12:55 AM
Post #14 of 14 (22475 views)
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Registered: Apr 29, 2004
Posts: 459

Re: [charley] Round Island - Ilha Redonda [In reply to]
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charley wrote:
Good story. Nice pics. I hope your nose heals fine.

Thanks!! Glad you liked Smile (and had patience to read through my poor grammar)

The nose is fine, it is indeed broken, but a very small fracture. It didn't come out of place, so there is nothign to be done but waiting. The cut on the top is already closed.



nose on saturday morning, 1 day after the 'accident'


nose on monday, I spent 3 days on the Island not knowing it was broken


(This post was edited by winglessangel on Sep 27, 2007, 8:37 PM)
Attachments: nose.JPG (133 KB)
  nariz.jpg (59.0 KB)


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