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tradguy
Oct 9, 2002, 2:36 PM
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Heading to Tucson area this weekend to climb with a friend. I have "Squeezing the Lemmon" and "Backcountry Rockclimbing in So AZ" guidebooks, but both contain LOTS of routes. Can anyone recommend some "must-do classics" in the 5.7-5.9 range for trad, and up to 5.10+ sport? I will probably spend 2 days around Mt. Lemmon and 2 days at Cochise Stronghold. If there's a particularly stellar easier 5.10 trad route, I'd be game for that too.
Thanks for any help!
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climbsomething
Oct 9, 2002, 4:44 PM
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Tradguy,
Mt. Lemmon
Agatha Christie (5.7/5.8 direct) and Hai Karate (5.7+) are two adjacent gear climbs that are also classic. Be warned that there is often a queue for these two, esp. Agatha, because not only are they supposed to be great on lead but they are easily toproped.
Hitchcock Pinnacle, in the Windy Point parking lot, is a neat local landmark formation and can be done 5.7 (5.8 var.) or 5.10 (surmounts a roof), both mixed (although, the bolts come and go like the wind, be ready for whatever...) You'll have tourists gawking at you, but it's a nice climb and a sweet view from the top. Novelty value, at least...
Actually, if you keep your focus on the Windy Point area (west and east), you should be able to find all the trad, sport and mixed that you'll want for your coupla days here...
Cochise Stronghold
Wasteland, 6p, 5.8 (and may feel easier than that)
What's My Line, 3p, 5.6 A0/5.10
Days of Future Passed, 4p, 5.8 A0/5.10
Moby Dick, 6p, 5.8
End Chimneys, 5.6-5.7
Isle Of You is the sport area in this otherwise trad-a-licious region, goes from moderate (~5.7) to 11s. Not all of the climbs are in the blue book, or anywhere else that I know of.
Caveat: I have done some, but not all of these climbs... but either way these are basically among the "It" climbs per the locals (locally-regarded as 3-star lines)
HEY! You'll be at The Beanfest right?
Either way, enjoy!
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vegastradguy
Oct 9, 2002, 5:00 PM
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Hitchock Pinnacle, 5.10, outstanding climb. It only has one bolt as of Sept 29th of this year, and its about 30 feet off the deck, right in the middle of the crux. However, the 5.7 next to it is a nice, easy trad lead with one bolt about 2/3 up, with a run out to a bolted anchor. You can set the top rope for the 5.10 from the top.
We played out at the Wall of the Marching Munchkins (www.climbaz.com) and had a great time, lots of fun sport routes.
I'm definitely planning on returning in the spring for more climbing! Have fun!
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bighigaz
Oct 9, 2002, 5:35 PM
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Hey, if you want a perfect 5.10+ sport route, MIDDLE EARTH has a classic 2 pitch, 250 foot jewell, with the most beatiful and exiting roof move I have ever seen, exposed, and 250 ft of the deck! The climb is called Simarillion, and I trully hope you don't miss it! Heck, I'll climb it with you, or at least take you there... just send me a PM!
James.
PS, there are plenty of other classics!!!
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epic_ed
Oct 9, 2002, 5:45 PM
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Must do Moby Dick (5.8 ) on Whale Dome in Cochise. Bring lots of double length slings to tie off chicken heads as pro.
Have a blast! It's a beautiful place.
Ed
[ This Message was edited by: up2top on 2002-10-09 10:47 ]
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climblouisiana
Oct 9, 2002, 6:00 PM
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Warpaint is one classic in Cochise that was not mentioned. Mostly bolted 5 pitch climb. Good introduction to Cochise climbing.
Nang is a 5.10 route in the Windy Point area. There are others close to it also like Slippery when wet, 5.6 gear route.
Mean Mistreater is in that area with good gear routes like Rich and Dave route, 5.8+. and Crab corner 5.8 and Mean Mistreater 5.10. I've led both crab corner and rich and dave as one pitch with a 60 meter rope and long runners. Very fun that way. Good luck!
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seeking8a
Oct 9, 2002, 6:22 PM
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Registered: Sep 5, 2002
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Mt Lemmon MUST DO classics
(Trad) Lizard Marmalade Direct 10+ 100'
(Sport) Steve's Arete 11a, amazing arete!
(Sport) Arizona flyways 11b, incredible route
(Sport) Tsunami 12b, one of THE best!
*These routes are incredible, its worth getting on them even if they're a little out of your zone.
Cochise MUST DO classics:
(Sport) End Game 10a 5 pitch all bolts, MUST DO
(Trad) What's my line 5.6 A0 3 pitch, very fun!
(Trad) Forest Lawn 9+ lieback 1 pitch
[ This Message was edited by: seeking8a on 2002-10-09 11:25 ]
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tradguy
Oct 10, 2002, 3:50 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2002
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Thanks for all the help folks!! Sounds like some cool climbing down there at Cochise - should be a fun trip.
And yes, I will be around for Beanfest, though I don't know if we'll be camping out or not.
See you out there.
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