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shockabuku
Oct 10, 2007, 10:01 PM
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Does this, admittedly vague, route description sound familiar to anyone? 1st pitch belay on a slightly sloping ledge about as wide as a desk with a horizontal crack at the ledge height, probably about 75-100 feet off the ground. Second pitch at least partly in a right facing dihedral, don't clearly remember the size but I used a pink tri-cam in it somewhere, a bunch of "eyebrow" pockets on the right, gets real slabby toward the top with a pine tree, (which may be gone by now and might have had some anchor slings) about 20 feet to the right of the top of the line. Grade, I think, was 5.6.
Thanks for any help; it was my first trad lead some years ago and I've forgotten the name of it.
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saxfiend
Oct 11, 2007, 2:56 PM
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You don't mention what the first pitch is like, but the rest of the description sounds very much like Second Coming, which is a 5.7. It has a good horizontal for a gear anchor at the first belay on a sloping ledge, and the route continues up the right-arching dihedral to a slabby finish. The pine tree over to the right that you mention corresponds to a tree (still there) that served as the Gemini Crack rap anchors until two bolted rap stations were installed recently.
The other possibility is Gemini Crack, which also follows a right-facing corner. I sort of doubt it, though; Gemini is a full-value 5.8, and it ends below the pine tree, not 20' left of it (as Second Coming does).
Both of these are in the South Side section of LG; check the photos in the RDB here.
JL
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shockabuku
Oct 11, 2007, 3:35 PM
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Thanks, that sounds about right and the pictures look vaguely familiar.
Thanks.
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shockabuku
Oct 11, 2007, 3:40 PM
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I can't really remember the first pitch but I don't seem to remember a corner under the belay. I remember the ledge as about as wide as a desk, maybe a little bigger from side to side. We had three people on it, probably sitting down at one point, but it wasn't like another huge ledge that was a ways off to the right and probably lower that we were on the following day. I think my feet would have stuck out over the edge when I was sitting with my back to the wall.
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j_ung
Oct 12, 2007, 3:20 PM
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Okay, I think I have it, but one more question first. Do you recall a hard, scary move near the top of the first pitch, one that a 5.6 climber might call sandbaggy?
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shockabuku
Oct 12, 2007, 3:28 PM
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I remember my second having some trouble somewhere before the belay ledge, maybe even real close to it, but that's about it.
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shockabuku
Oct 12, 2007, 3:52 PM
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I seem to remember the corner getting really shallow but something of it running toward the top. There must not have been very much of a crack left though because I ended up drifting to the right a little to build a belay out of some of the eyebrow type pockets. Of course it could also be that that was my first lead and I just didn't have the skill or gear to build an anchor in line with the route.
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pornstarr
Oct 12, 2007, 7:26 PM
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SECOND COMING, 5.7
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saxfiend
Oct 12, 2007, 8:37 PM
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j_ung wrote: I think it matches up most closely with Second Coning, though that's not 5.6, it's 5.7
j_ung wrote: The bad news is... you were climbing at Cedar Rock, not Looking Glass. 
JL
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shockabuku
Oct 12, 2007, 10:31 PM
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Thanks for everyone's input.
I'll go on the assumption that it was Second Coming. I was climbing (for me) pretty well at that point and regularly in the gym, probably about easy 5.10 on toprope (even outside). The, in retrospect, dangerous thing was that I'd probably only seconded about a couple of trad routes prior to that at about the same grade or less. I did hang on the rope somewhere during the second pitch because I got pumped out though. The pink tri-cam, in my first ever tri-cam placement, earned my unending devotion that day (borrowed rack consisting of nuts and tricams). Wow, that all seems really reckless!
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