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5.6 at Looking Glass
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shockabuku


Oct 10, 2007, 3:01 PM
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5.6 at Looking Glass  (North_America: United_States: North_Carolina: Western: Looking_Glass_Rock)
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Does this, admittedly vague, route description sound familiar to anyone? 1st pitch belay on a slightly sloping ledge about as wide as a desk with a horizontal crack at the ledge height, probably about 75-100 feet off the ground. Second pitch at least partly in a right facing dihedral, don't clearly remember the size but I used a pink tri-cam in it somewhere, a bunch of "eyebrow" pockets on the right, gets real slabby toward the top with a pine tree, (which may be gone by now and might have had some anchor slings) about 20 feet to the right of the top of the line. Grade, I think, was 5.6.

Thanks for any help; it was my first trad lead some years ago and I've forgotten the name of it.


saxfiend


Oct 11, 2007, 7:56 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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You don't mention what the first pitch is like, but the rest of the description sounds very much like Second Coming, which is a 5.7. It has a good horizontal for a gear anchor at the first belay on a sloping ledge, and the route continues up the right-arching dihedral to a slabby finish. The pine tree over to the right that you mention corresponds to a tree (still there) that served as the Gemini Crack rap anchors until two bolted rap stations were installed recently.

The other possibility is Gemini Crack, which also follows a right-facing corner. I sort of doubt it, though; Gemini is a full-value 5.8, and it ends below the pine tree, not 20' left of it (as Second Coming does).

Both of these are in the South Side section of LG; check the photos in the RDB here.

JL


Partner j_ung


Oct 11, 2007, 8:09 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
1st pitch belay on a slightly sloping ledge about as wide as a desk with a horizontal crack at the ledge height, probably about 75-100 feet off the ground.

What was the first pitch like? Also a corner or was it facey? By "wide as a desk," do mean wide from side to side or from front to back? Ledge big enough to park a car on?


shockabuku


Oct 11, 2007, 8:35 AM
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Re: [saxfiend] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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Thanks, that sounds about right and the pictures look vaguely familiar.

Thanks.


shockabuku


Oct 11, 2007, 8:40 AM
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Re: [j_ung] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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I can't really remember the first pitch but I don't seem to remember a corner under the belay. I remember the ledge as about as wide as a desk, maybe a little bigger from side to side. We had three people on it, probably sitting down at one point, but it wasn't like another huge ledge that was a ways off to the right and probably lower that we were on the following day. I think my feet would have stuck out over the edge when I was sitting with my back to the wall.


Partner j_ung


Oct 12, 2007, 8:20 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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Okay, I think I have it, but one more question first. Do you recall a hard, scary move near the top of the first pitch, one that a 5.6 climber might call sandbaggy?


shockabuku


Oct 12, 2007, 8:28 AM
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Re: [j_ung] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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I remember my second having some trouble somewhere before the belay ledge, maybe even real close to it, but that's about it.


Partner j_ung


Oct 12, 2007, 8:46 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
I remember my second having some trouble somewhere before the belay ledge, maybe even real close to it, but that's about it.

Very last question: do you recall exiting the corner on the second pitch or did it go all the way up? If so, which way did you exit the corner -- right or left?


shockabuku


Oct 12, 2007, 8:52 AM
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Re: [j_ung] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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I seem to remember the corner getting really shallow but something of it running toward the top. There must not have been very much of a crack left though because I ended up drifting to the right a little to build a belay out of some of the eyebrow type pockets. Of course it could also be that that was my first lead and I just didn't have the skill or gear to build an anchor in line with the route.


Partner j_ung


Oct 12, 2007, 11:28 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
I seem to remember the corner getting really shallow but something of it running toward the top. There must not have been very much of a crack left though because I ended up drifting to the right a little to build a belay out of some of the eyebrow type pockets. Of course it could also be that that was my first lead and I just didn't have the skill or gear to build an anchor in line with the route.

Gotcha. Well, I have good news and bad news. The bad news is... you were climbing at Cedar Rock, not Looking Glass.

Just kidding. However, I can't think of any route for which all your recollections work. I think it matches up most closely with Second Coning, though that's not 5.6, it's 5.7, and it has a distinct corner all the way up the first pitch. Other possibilities include Good Intentions and a link up -- Short Man's Sorrow to Bloody Crack.


pornstarr


Oct 12, 2007, 12:26 PM
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Re: [j_ung] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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SECOND COMING, 5.7


saxfiend


Oct 12, 2007, 1:37 PM
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Re: [j_ung] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
I think it matches up most closely with Second Coning, though that's not 5.6, it's 5.7
I agree; even though the OP's memories are vague, it sounds like that's the only line it could be. I'd have to say that Second Coming would be a pretty stiff first lead (at least at the P1 crux)!

j_ung wrote:
The bad news is... you were climbing at Cedar Rock, not Looking Glass.
You sure it wasn't Woody Wall? Cool

JL


shockabuku


Oct 12, 2007, 3:31 PM
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Re: [saxfiend] 5.6 at Looking Glass [In reply to]
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Thanks for everyone's input.

I'll go on the assumption that it was Second Coming. I was climbing (for me) pretty well at that point and regularly in the gym, probably about easy 5.10 on toprope (even outside). The, in retrospect, dangerous thing was that I'd probably only seconded about a couple of trad routes prior to that at about the same grade or less. I did hang on the rope somewhere during the second pitch because I got pumped out though. The pink tri-cam, in my first ever tri-cam placement, earned my unending devotion that day (borrowed rack consisting of nuts and tricams). Wow, that all seems really reckless!


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